Laine D
Full Access Member
She is converted to hydroboost. But would it come on if I have weak vacuum still? I have tried switching the heater controls but I could’ve sworn they were slower last time
“The 6.9” project thread
- Thread starter Laine D
- Start date
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
The small round can (Vacuum sensor) on the fender well with the vacuum line on the front side and the electrical connector on the side is what turns on and off the brake light when you have or do not have vacuum.(Basically there to warn you when you loose vacuum IE lose brake boost for most of us.) Could be a lack of vacuum, a vacuum line, bad electrical connection, or the sensor is going bad.
Guessing the brake Fluid sensor and e-brake also share the same light but I don’t recall for sure.
Guessing the brake Fluid sensor and e-brake also share the same light but I don’t recall for sure.
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Laine D
Full Access Member
What’s up guys. It’s been a minute since I posted on this thread. So the last month or 2 I haven’t really driven the truck much. I ripped the interior all apart and *hopefully* fixed the blend door thing issue as I only had half feet, half face vent for my heater. No defrost was like legitimately dangerous and I don’t mean to sound like a little baby. At the same time I gutted a bunch of wiring and am installing a relay/fuse box under the hood so I don’t light myself on fire. I installed my firewall reinforcement plate, FINALLY modded the brake pedal for my hydroboost, and installed a heim joint on the clutch linkage. I also have black carpet and sound deadening I might put in but I might wait because I kinda just miss driving it.
The lovely pistons you see here are from that turbo motor I bought back at the end of summer. I’m not really tripping about it because I don’t think they are that deep. I’m obviously going to buy new pistons haha. But there’s no way I can complain to the seller because A, he’s cool as hell. And B there’s no shot he could’ve known because it ran amazing. Other than the pistons, the rest of the engine looks fantastic. The cylinders are super smooth and I can still see crosshatching. Barely any ring ridge. I think that this motor always had coolant in it because there’s barely any rust in the coolant Ports. Bought some studs off Facebook too for a very nice price
. Not in a rush whatsoever, just taking my time so I can find the best deals because I hate spending more money than I need to.
The lovely pistons you see here are from that turbo motor I bought back at the end of summer. I’m not really tripping about it because I don’t think they are that deep. I’m obviously going to buy new pistons haha. But there’s no way I can complain to the seller because A, he’s cool as hell. And B there’s no shot he could’ve known because it ran amazing. Other than the pistons, the rest of the engine looks fantastic. The cylinders are super smooth and I can still see crosshatching. Barely any ring ridge. I think that this motor always had coolant in it because there’s barely any rust in the coolant Ports. Bought some studs off Facebook too for a very nice price
. Not in a rush whatsoever, just taking my time so I can find the best deals because I hate spending more money than I need to.Attachments
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
No you've been trying to go all 4X4 in a new Beetle!
No you've been trying to go all 4X4 in a new Beetle!
I told him he needs a lift and mud tires lol
Laine D
Full Access Member
No you've been trying to go all 4X4 in a new Beetle!
Listen I know I have a fan base now but you’re loosing sight of the big picture…. Selling my truck and buying 10 more beetles!
Laine D
Full Access Member
In need of some advice. So the switched on wires (alternator, fuel shutoff, etc) all were very melted and screwed up from what appears to be a long time ago. I believe something happened before I owned it.
Anyways. I’d like to run a switched power to that buss bar for the fuel shutoff and the alternator. If I run constant power to a relay, keyed on power to the relay, and then the outgoing wire to the buss bar to power those, would that make sense? Or should I just tap into the fuse box and run 2 super long wires from the cab.
My main thing is that I want solid power and don’t want to add on to the factory wiring that much at all.
Anyways. I’d like to run a switched power to that buss bar for the fuel shutoff and the alternator. If I run constant power to a relay, keyed on power to the relay, and then the outgoing wire to the buss bar to power those, would that make sense? Or should I just tap into the fuse box and run 2 super long wires from the cab.
My main thing is that I want solid power and don’t want to add on to the factory wiring that much at all.
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Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Laine my vote since you have already gone rouge on your wiring and have wiring issues.
1) Relay is generally the way to go so wire one in. It takes amps off your factory switches and wiring, helping prevent issues like you already have.(Burned factory harness wiring.)
2) Since it looks like you have already deleted and replaced your factory glow plug system, your 30% there to replacing your engine based wiring too.
3) So perhaps you tap into your ignition switch wiring in the engine compartment and use the key on +12v wire to run the relay/relays. Send relay fed, fused protected, power to the buss. Then you have keyed on/keyed off relay power to your buss.
3) Then run a new wiring harness from the buss to the front part of your engine.
a) Use one wire for the IP solenoid. (Maybe on its own relay.)
b) Use one wire for the fuel filter heater.
c) Use one wire to your temp sensor that powers your cold advance and idle.
d) Rewire from the temp sensor to the cold advance solenoid and high idle solenoid.
e) Use a wire off that buss for a electric fuel pump if you have one.
f) Not sure what alternator you have so, let us know. If 3g then a wire to it too.
Let the factory wiring and fuse feed the low amp side of the relay or relays. Let the high amp side do the work via your wiring harness.
I feel that is going to give you the level of reliability you want and help prevent future wiring challenges. Perhaps toss a couple relays and fuses in the glove box for a rainy day.
1) Relay is generally the way to go so wire one in. It takes amps off your factory switches and wiring, helping prevent issues like you already have.(Burned factory harness wiring.)
2) Since it looks like you have already deleted and replaced your factory glow plug system, your 30% there to replacing your engine based wiring too.
3) So perhaps you tap into your ignition switch wiring in the engine compartment and use the key on +12v wire to run the relay/relays. Send relay fed, fused protected, power to the buss. Then you have keyed on/keyed off relay power to your buss.
3) Then run a new wiring harness from the buss to the front part of your engine.
a) Use one wire for the IP solenoid. (Maybe on its own relay.)
b) Use one wire for the fuel filter heater.
c) Use one wire to your temp sensor that powers your cold advance and idle.
d) Rewire from the temp sensor to the cold advance solenoid and high idle solenoid.
e) Use a wire off that buss for a electric fuel pump if you have one.
f) Not sure what alternator you have so, let us know. If 3g then a wire to it too.
Let the factory wiring and fuse feed the low amp side of the relay or relays. Let the high amp side do the work via your wiring harness.
I feel that is going to give you the level of reliability you want and help prevent future wiring challenges. Perhaps toss a couple relays and fuses in the glove box for a rainy day.
Last edited:
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Absolutely.
Laine D
Full Access Member
This is EXACTLY what I was thinking except your words are much better than mine
. I love this forum. Thank you!
The only suggested change I could see is to 3b
Forget the fuel heater. If you still have the original fuel line heater, just leave it disconnected.
If you have the 7.3 style head, still forget the heater, but get an 1/2 tap, tap the hole and plug the heater hole. The heaters really don't do anything anyway, except on the 7.3 head, cause a leak.
Somewhere in the 6.0 run IH/Ford changed the HFCM and removed the heater from it. Mine has been unplugged for YEARS.....with no issues. The replacement HFCM doesn't have a heater at all.
Forget the fuel heater. If you still have the original fuel line heater, just leave it disconnected.
If you have the 7.3 style head, still forget the heater, but get an 1/2 tap, tap the hole and plug the heater hole. The heaters really don't do anything anyway, except on the 7.3 head, cause a leak.
Somewhere in the 6.0 run IH/Ford changed the HFCM and removed the heater from it. Mine has been unplugged for YEARS.....with no issues. The replacement HFCM doesn't have a heater at all.
Laine D
Full Access Member
All I have to wire on the engine is the fss, high idle, alternator signal wire, and then the gauge wires but that’s a separate setup
Laine D
Full Access Member
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Looks good to me!
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Laine,
Do not forget the IP advance solenoid. When your truck is cold, that advances the timing on the IP pump. This is what makes our trucks really clatter for a little bit when cold.
The same circuit powers the high throttle solenoid holding the throttle a little more open and causing an increase in rpm. (Maybe not in 10* weather after sitting all night but it would at least cause it to idle at the normal speed.)
As mentioned the coolant temp sensor (Think on/off switch.) allows +12v power say to pass through between terminals and go to the solenoids when the engine is say less than 120 degrees to the advance and idle solenoids. As the engine warms up the sensor cuts off the power.
Now don’t go getting all crazy and put in a timed switch for those solenoids. Just use the sensor. If you do all the members will have to follow you and then the bickering will start about how long my timer is vs long your timer is.(Pun intended)
Looking good!
Do not forget the IP advance solenoid. When your truck is cold, that advances the timing on the IP pump. This is what makes our trucks really clatter for a little bit when cold.
The same circuit powers the high throttle solenoid holding the throttle a little more open and causing an increase in rpm. (Maybe not in 10* weather after sitting all night but it would at least cause it to idle at the normal speed.)
As mentioned the coolant temp sensor (Think on/off switch.) allows +12v power say to pass through between terminals and go to the solenoids when the engine is say less than 120 degrees to the advance and idle solenoids. As the engine warms up the sensor cuts off the power.
Now don’t go getting all crazy and put in a timed switch for those solenoids. Just use the sensor. If you do all the members will have to follow you and then the bickering will start about how long my timer is vs long your timer is.(Pun intended)
Looking good!
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