Project Truck - 89' F250

Scotty4

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BTW any tips on installing a new vent window gasket? I could not find OEM so had to order aftermarket off rock auto. I tried this once before and didn’t go so well, I ripped the drivers side and it makes a bunch of wind noise, so have to do that over.
This is the last window seal I need to do so if you figure it out let us know. I did the rest of them with kits from bronco graveyard and they were excellent quality and perfect fit. Windows are tight, still sime wind noise from the moldy crack on the smokers window but I like to leave the moss on there, adds character
 

renjaminfrankln

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renjaminfrankln

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There's actually two gears. One in the tcase and one on the cable itself.

How many teeth are on the drive gear inside your transfer case? (possible options are 6, 7, or 8 teeth)



What is the axle gear ratio?

How many tire revolutions per mile? (Look on your tire manufacturers web site)

The formula for finding the correct speedo gear is: drive gear x axle ratio x tire rev/mile ÷ 1000

That will give you the number of teeth on the gear you'll need.

thanks for posting. Replaced the inner speedo drive gear today. Formula was spot on. now cruise control works smoothly. You can see the wear on the gear in the pic.

Also greased my U joints

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renjaminfrankln

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Just throwin this out there.

My wipers occasionally freeze up when driving. I have to cycle the switch and they start again. I have an 89 and the switch has four functions. Push for wiper fluid spray, and then the three position rotary switch (off, slow, fast).

I did some searching online and it seems it may be the switch itself? Any comments on this diagnosis.

Previously I did buy a motorcraft switch (part# below) from rockauto. I got the dash cover off, old switch out, and then noticed that the switch completely did not fit.
MOTORCRAFT SW1571A

Anyone know which switch I need? Or is there another problem causing my occasional wiper issues. It happens randomly, usually after the wipers have been operating for a few mins.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Just throwin this out there.

My wipers occasionally freeze up when driving. I have to cycle the switch and they start again. I have an 89 and the switch has four functions. Push for wiper fluid spray, and then the three position rotary switch (off, slow, fast).

I did some searching online and it seems it may be the switch itself? Any comments on this diagnosis.

Previously I did buy a motorcraft switch (part# below) from rockauto. I got the dash cover off, old switch out, and then noticed that the switch completely did not fit.
MOTORCRAFT SW1571A

Anyone know which switch I need? Or is there another problem causing my occasional wiper issues. It happens randomly, usually after the wipers have been operating for a few mins.
The thing that quits is the variable speed electrics(relay box?) behind the switch and behind the fuse panel. It's tough to get to but there is a circuit board that ends up cracking right at the same track in so many of our rigs.

Here's a semi-helpful thread on FTE:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1405783-windshield-wipers.html
 

renjaminfrankln

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The thing that quits is the variable speed electrics(relay box?) behind the switch and behind the fuse panel. It's tough to get to but there is a circuit board that ends up cracking right at the same track in so many of our rigs.

Here's a semi-helpful thread on FTE:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1405783-windshield-wipers.html

Thanks. More work for me! I'm gradually fixing stuff to where it can become something of a true DD. Right now I just drive it to take stuff to home depot/the dump and occasionally to commute on a nice sunny day. But now that I have A/C and cruise control working, want to get the rest of the creature comforts going... In its current state, I have to be pretty generous with the rain-x to make sure I can still see when the wipers quit
 

The_Josh_Bear

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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1635555-89-f250-lariat-wipers-only-work-on-high.html

Here's a little better thread with a video link for visuals.

My comment in the first thread is that the little track that cracks most often can be "jumped" with a wire from both sides which eliminates that track entirely. Also they don't all fail the same way so it's best to hit every connection with the iron to ensure conductivity.

Then in the future put your left foot over the e brake pedal when releasing so it quits breaking that box. Mine has never failed since I did these things, been over 8 years.

And a user said the Hi setting will always work because it bypasses the relay box thing but this is erroneous. If the right track breaks you'll lose everything. Been there, done that! :D
 

renjaminfrankln

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Think I have a pinhole leak in the radiator.

got a little coolant collecting at the bottom of the core support, a drop or two runs out of the holes down there after a drive. I can’t see where it’s coming from but by process of elimination it is almost certainly the rad

3 core champion still the radiator of choice for replacement?

also what’s the procedure on flushing the block when switching to ELC. Peak final charge is cheap at the Wally World nearby
 

riphip

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Think I have a pinhole leak in the radiator.

got a little coolant collecting at the bottom of the core support, a drop or two runs out of the holes down there after a drive. I can’t see where it’s coming from but by process of elimination it is almost certainly the rad

3 core champion still the radiator of choice for replacement?

also what’s the procedure on flushing the block when switching to ELC. Peak final charge is cheap at the Wally World nearby
Put a 7# cap on there if not already done. May help.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Replaced the radiator with a 3 row Champion. Drained all coolant from block, filled with distilled water, ran until it got up to temp, drained all the water. One flush was enough, the water that came out was basically clear and barely had any hit of the green coolant. Filled with peak final charge ELC. Glad I won't have to mess with SCA and test strips any more.

Also did an MPG calculation... my commute is about 70% highway and I usually set the cruise at 70mph. Getting 19mpg combined! Pretty impressive really.

When I was pulling the radiator it got caught a little bit on the hard line coming from the condenser and all my refrigerant leaked out. On further inspection the bracket that is supposed to support the long hard line coming from the passenger side of the condenser was missing a screw, and the metal was fatigued, so just one little nudge was enough to get it to leak.

Put a new condenser in there as well as a new drier that I had. Still need to vacuum it down and charge up.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Good fuel system does wonders! ;Sweet

Yep... the engine is running real smooth. I have an IP from wes, and he pop tested and matched my injectors for me :)

Also have Russ's turbo mod for the first gen banks turbo... its putting out 1-2 psi on the highway unloaded and 7-8psi wide open. I'd like to get an ATS on there at some point but its working great for now. I think I have some other stuff to tackle first.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Question - I need to order some rear brake pads, anyone know which size I need? Rock auto lists 12x3" and 12x2.5".

I'm guessing 12x3 is probably DRW and I need the 12.5

Edit: looks like 3" is for the sterling full float axle, which I have.
 
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renjaminfrankln

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Leaking rear wheel seal replaced (only one side was leaking, replaced both of them) and new brake shoes, springs, adjusters and drums on both sides. Wasn't planning to replace the drums but I actually chipped one of them significantly getting it off, so it got two new drums.

My arms feel like they are about to fall off.


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