Oledirtypearl86
Full Access Member
I’ve ran derby cars on straight Lucas with temps up to 250-260 degrees and never had that issue....
But that's a seen car try running it as a DD with the hot cold cycles
I’ve ran derby cars on straight Lucas with temps up to 250-260 degrees and never had that issue....
I've been told many times that I should run it. I've also heard it's practically just non-detergent 50wt oil. Either way I'm glad to have some confirmation that I shouldn't be running it. Not that I ever really considered it.
What makes you think this? I mostly use Lucas as engine assembly lube, but decades ago I used it regularly on worn out engines to stretch their lives. It always quieted things down and cut oil consumption way down. I broke down a couple of those engines later and never saw this.Upon further investigation, I’m positive this stuff is at least 5 quarts of Lucas oil treatment, the stuff that’s thicker than gear oil that some people seem to really believe in, that gelatinized while sitting when it was pulled from the wrecked truck and put into my customers rig.
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I agree with the above statement.I do not know about the engine oil additive, but I can attest to the Lucas trans fix, that stuff works. Fixed the torque converter shutter on my daughter's car. If any of you guys have a E4OD where the torque convertor clutches are starting to slip, try this stuff, if there is any life left in it, will straighten it out and give you a few more miles out of it.
This is an IDIT, no cowl seal needed. I also pressure tested the cooling system prior to disassembly and it held pressure.It might be worth boiling a bit of Lucas down(like, on the stove) and see what happens. See what it does when exposed to way-too-high temps.
Also, worth trying for regular engine oil.
I will say that in my experience(I've had a couple times where Lucas was... necessary, like when I put a front main seal in backwards and didn't have time to change it), it's always mixed right in with other oil. I have found that it will leave a sticky thin film on everything(think oil film, but a lot tackier), which I think is a good thing?
Never seen any deposits in the oil pan.
Another thing that may affect all this is water + regular oil ends up making "grease". I left a 5 gallon jug of fresh oil with a couple gallons still in it outside for a couple of months with the cap on, but it evidently didn't seal. Time comes to use it, and I start pouring it into another jug and out comes these "lumps" of "grease". That stuff would totally clog a filter or pickup screen. The interesting part was that it didn't mix in with the other oil in the jug - it was just "stuff" and "clean oil".
I ended up filtering it out, and called it good.
Now, in this engine, if you'd gotten some water in it(leaking cowl seal anyone?), I could totally see it making the same "stuff" in the oil pan. No antifreeze required!
If, say, the rubber grommet in the valley pan leaked, wouldn't that cause the same issue?This is an IDIT, no cowl seal needed.
If this were the case, the shop truck would have water in the oil from driving in pouring rain with no hood.If, say, the rubber grommet in the valley pan leaked, wouldn't that cause the same issue?
I did see that on one JY motor I pulled, which evidently had the CDR pulled and left open for a while. Quite a bit of rainwater ended up in the pan due to that.
Not a bad idea, when I do my oil change I like to drain the oil and then run 5 gallons of diesel through the crankcase to clean and flush any more oil and crap out. Helps a ton, and my oil stays clean until about halfway through its cycle now.I am under the belief that adding a quart of ATF to the oil a week or so before changing the oil will put goop like that back into solution, which is removed upon the oil change.
Comments?
Not a bad idea, when I do my oil change I like to drain the oil and then run 5 gallons of diesel through the crankcase to clean and flush any more oil and crap out. Helps a ton, and my oil stays clean until about halfway through its cycle now.