Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Thewespaul, Jul 20, 2019.
But that's a seen car try running it as a DD with the hot cold cycles
And considering that the higher heat would mean thinner fluid,it would probably act more like regular oil at that point
I mean drag cars run with solid blocks for short periods, so I agree with above, give it a drive to the grocery store and it'll be locked up when you try to go to work the next morning. Most drag engines don't last a season, if that, Wich is a total of what, 10 hrs maybe?
I am under the belief that adding a quart of ATF to the oil a week or so before changing the oil will put goop like that back into solution, which is removed upon the oil change.
I'm not sure what that is, likely went a LONG time between oil changes!
I've heard the same thing, that Lucas is just pure heavy lube oil without any additives. I've never run it, never encouraged others to either.
What makes you think this? I mostly use Lucas as engine assembly lube, but decades ago I used it regularly on worn out engines to stretch their lives. It always quieted things down and cut oil consumption way down. I broke down a couple of those engines later and never saw this.
It is just thick oil. I don't see any reason why it would fall out of solution like that so I am curious about where your lucas theory came from.
I do not know about the engine oil additive, but I can attest to the Lucas trans fix, that stuff works. Fixed the torque converter shutter on my daughter's car. If any of you guys have a E4OD where the torque convertor clutches are starting to slip, try this stuff, if there is any life left in it, will straighten it out and give you a few more miles out of it.
I agree with the above statement.
I knew this might be a bit controversial for some since theres some die hard lucas fans out there, but what I see in this oil pan is lucas. Its got the same tacky stringyness that lucas has to it, and even though the oil was changed often enough the lucas never drained, so even if the previous owner was only using the recommended dosage, it wasnt mixing with the regular motor oil, and every dosage just stacked up more sludge in the oil pan. The stuff does nothing for oil stabilizing or improving lubricity, its just thick oil. The thing I despise the most about this product, is how often it is used to cover up engine knocks in used car sales. With the countless number of timebomb cars sold with knocking engines to unsuspecting single mothers, you would think more people would gripe on lucas, its a product sold with the intention to cover up bad engine noises and it describes several dosages to treat engine noises in the instructions. But Im not saying this engine failed because of lucas, first and foremost, it failed because there were no gauges. If the owner saw the engine overheating, or saw the lack of oil pressure, or had checked the oil pan before installing the engine, this would have been avoidable, thats why I shared the failure.
It might be worth boiling a bit of Lucas down(like, on the stove) and see what happens. See what it does when exposed to way-too-high temps.
Also, worth trying for regular engine oil.
I will say that in my experience(I've had a couple times where Lucas was... necessary, like when I put a front main seal in backwards and didn't have time to change it), it's always mixed right in with other oil. I have found that it will leave a sticky thin film on everything(think oil film, but a lot tackier), which I think is a good thing?
Never seen any deposits in the oil pan.
Another thing that may affect all this is water + regular oil ends up making "grease". I left a 5 gallon jug of fresh oil with a couple gallons still in it outside for a couple of months with the cap on, but it evidently didn't seal. Time comes to use it, and I start pouring it into another jug and out comes these "lumps" of "grease". That stuff would totally clog a filter or pickup screen. The interesting part was that it didn't mix in with the other oil in the jug - it was just "stuff" and "clean oil".
I ended up filtering it out, and called it good.
Now, in this engine, if you'd gotten some water in it(leaking cowl seal anyone?), I could totally see it making the same "stuff" in the oil pan. No antifreeze required!
This is an IDIT, no cowl seal needed. I also pressure tested the cooling system prior to disassembly and it held pressure.
If, say, the rubber grommet in the valley pan leaked, wouldn't that cause the same issue?
I did see that on one JY motor I pulled, which evidently had the CDR pulled and left open for a while. Quite a bit of rainwater ended up in the pan due to that.
Most water boils off/turns into mist and burns with the oil fog through the cdr if you drive the engine at temp for a while though. You would need some serious water intrusion to get to that point. Plus the water/used oil mixture almost always has a grey or whitish color. I don't see that is his pictures, just sticky goop
If this were the case, the shop truck would have water in the oil from driving in pouring rain with no hood.
Not a bad idea, when I do my oil change I like to drain the oil and then run 5 gallons of diesel through the crankcase to clean and flush any more oil and crap out. Helps a ton, and my oil stays clean until about halfway through its cycle now.
I'm assuming you just fill it, wait, then drain it? I would imagine it would be foolish to run it like this correct?
Separate names with a comma.