1994 f250 turbo project

Hey guys, I had a thread going for this project called Sloowww Crank, but I figured since that thread is a little long in the tooth and the original subject line is a little out of date I would start a new one...

Truck is a 1994 F250 factory turbo, e4od, extended cab, and here she is being delivered to my house on a roll back since I bought her in a non starting state.



My neighbors thought i was crazy. That was March of '17. Still haven't driven it!! Can't wait to get rif=d of the wheel covers!!

As I mentioned in my other thread all my guesses when I went to look at it as to what it needed were WRONG and it really needed a NEW ENGINE. Hey you can't win em all. But I decided to stick with the project. I'm now a week or two away from having this installed:



Since the machine shop found the issue was spun main bearings, I found a another block (not a turbo block unfortunately, but couldn't find another of those) for them to use in doing a rebuild. The crank was turned down and installed with thicker bearings.

Other than that, the glow plugs (Delphi BBs) are in Russ's capable hands for some love.

Got the turbo outlet kit from Justin.



A turbo shop deemed the turbo serviceable, so I'm just putting that back on as is.

I took the (original style) radiator to have it flushed and checked at my local radiator shop and they called and said it was all eaten up inside, so I got a Performance all aluminum replacement. I looked at the Champion that many on here have said good things about but decided to go with what this shop carries so that I would have local representation when/if it falls apart.



Trans service done since it was out, and new input shaft seal installed.

Need to get: water pump, new zd9's, motor mounts, fluids/filters, etc.

One big thing I haven't done anything to is the injection pump. I don't have the cash to do a full rebuild right now, is there any way to flush some sea foam or ATF through it on the bench? I searched on here about IP cleaning and found mostly ideas for doing so with the pump installed... I was wondering if there was a way I could gravity feed some sea foam into the inlet and spin the pump by hand until it started coming out the outlets? Thoughts?

If you try to run any cleaner thru the injection pump it MUST pass thru the fuel filter. The pump has clearances way less than 1 thousands. Dirt you can't see ruins the pump fast. Why do you feel you need to flush the injection pump??? If you really are guessing it needs it just connect it to the fuel filter on the engine. Fill the filter with the cleaner you want. Then have all the glow plugs out and crank the engine. Make sure you see the pressurized fuel coming out the back of the injection pump. Just leave off the injector hard lines.

Yeah I'm just guessing, everything else is new or cleaned so I figured the pump might want some attention also. When the machine shop removed the pump from the motor they just put it in a cardboard box and didn't cap off the ports or anything so there has been opportunity for dirt to get in that way.
I had thought about waiting until it was back on the engine and filling the filter with sea foam as many posters have mentioned, however I didnt' want anything that came out to go through the freshly cleaned injectors. I hadn't thought about leaving the hard lines off. Seems like it might make quite a mess?

David, I have the same concern with my IP.
Fresh injectors and engine.
I received a suggestion basically the same as icanfixall gave.
My pump is off the engine and it was suggested I clean the pump very well and remove the triangular plate, pour in ATF and shake it and dump out. Repeat as necessary.
When firing the engine leave all the lines loose until you get a lot of fuel coming out of the lines flushing it well.
I got this truck not running and no telling how long it sat up with out being started.

When flushing any fuel or cleaner thru the injection pump with lines off the back or NOT connected to injectors you will see very little fuel. At wide open throttle during cranking speeds very little fuel goes thru the injection pump. No need to worry about a mess. I tip I taught myself when turning up or down the fuel I place several paper towels in a sandwich bag. Then carefully place the bag under the injection pump trying to catch the fuel draining out of the triangle cover plate. It usually works well.

icanfixall said:

I tip I taught myself when turning up or down the fuel I place several paper towels in a sandwich bag. Then carefully place the bag under the injection pump trying to catch the fuel draining out of the triangle cover plate. It usually works well.

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I just usually put a drain pan underneath the starter area to catch the fuel when it drains out.

Update...

So the oil cooler was all full of metal shavings from the mains as you might expect. So despite reading many recommendations to never reuse an oil cooler after a bearing failure, i decided to let the radiator shop have a go at it. $100 later i got it back all shiny and with the statement that they couldn't get any more metal out of it, but they can't promise there isn't any more. Fortunately as I was standing in my garage trying to decide what to do the light went down one of the oil inlet holes juuuust right, so I could see a bunch of shavings stuck between the fins. So I'm picking up a NAPA replacement tomorrow.

Good call I had mine start seeping and pulled it apart and it was full of crud not brarings but. Crud and I bought one at the local carqueat put it together and she has been running just fine even though I .think it would hit the oil filter

DavidS said:

Update...

So the oil cooler was all full of metal shavings from the mains as you might expect. So despite reading many recommendations to never reuse an oil cooler after a bearing failure, i decided to let the radiator shop have a go at it. $100 later i got it back all shiny and with the statement that they couldn't get any more metal out of it, but they can't promise there isn't any more. Fortunately as I was standing in my garage trying to decide what to do the light went down one of the oil inlet holes juuuust right, so I could see a bunch of shavings stuck between the fins. So I'm picking up a NAPA replacement tomorrow.

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How much is the napa replacement? Ive got plenty of coolers here, free of bearing material and probably much cheaper.

Thanks thewespaul, I think I'll go ahead with the napa one, but I'll keep you in mind when/if this one falls apart...I'm sure it's not as stout as the original ones.

I say splurge on a new IP, all this work and gonna put back on a used one?? Doesn’t make sense to me. The IP is the heart of these motors!!


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HS108 I would love to, I see you have some nice upgrades on your truck in your sig...I'll get there one day, just starting from a little further behind that I planned on with this truck ha.

Start an oil burners go fund me lol

Thanks for the kind words on the truck. I’m just like you, a piece at a time.
I have a new R&D 80cc ready to go in for my truck (old pump is having heat soak issues)

I just don’t have the time unfortunately, but with that clean motor, I just hate to see ya have to get it all dirty when you do swap pumps down the road, but I’m in touch with reality, so I understand somethings are just the way they have to be sometimes.

I finally got my hydroboost (had it sitting on the shelf for 2 years lol) and a new steering box installed last weekend, because I need to truck to turn when we move in a few weeks, but while doing so I had to miss out on my daughter going trunk or treating, and I love my fords, but I love my family time more, so I 100% feel ya


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As a follow up to this thread and just for the sake of sharing, this engine always had a "pulse", especially when hot. The shop that had installed the IP after the rebuilt engine went back in assured me that they got the marks lined up between the IP gear and the cam gear. After chasing my tail a little bit I went to a different guy who verified the above, but went further and checked the cam to crank alignment...and it was off by a few teeth. Somehow the machine shop got it off when they were building it but since the front cover was already on when the engine came back nobody every saw it. After that the was corrected the engine was immediately smoother and had more power, as you might expect. It was frustrating that it took so long to find but we got there eventually. I still don't think the timing is quite correct, but I can't find anyone around here (norfolk, va) that either has the correct tool or even knows that there is one.

So over the weekend, after some highway driving I noticed that the "pulse" was back. Not bad like it was before, but I remembered the feel. Also down on power. As way to test if timing would have an effect, I supplied 12v to the cold advance solenoid while the engine was running and it immediately smoothed out. Idle seemed to speed up a bit. After a few times energizing the solenoid, the idle remained smooth. So my question is, does this point to a timing issue? Or was I just masking another problem when I energized the cold advance solenoid? i.e. the "heat soak" issue I've read about on here before. It does seem to run smoother and have more power when just warmed up than when good and hot. Thoughts?