Anything that is cheap will not work well. You can use welding leads or just take your positive and negative leads to a napa and have them make you new leads. Should cost about $200 that way
What to do before new IP?
- Thread starter adamsanders
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Be very,very careful if you leave the fuel turned up to where it's rolling coal.You can't cool her down with a turbo spooling up and you can melt her down right quick.Timing is'nt going to change her from rolling coal to burning clean,no matter where you set it from 6-10 BTDC.Caution.Don't say I didn't warn ya lol.
N/A IP's are not toys either.Here is what a maxed one can easily do with a banks & intercooler;
N/A IP's are not toys either.Here is what a maxed one can easily do with a banks & intercooler;
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adamsanders
Full Access Member
Be very,very careful if you leave the fuel turned up to where it's rolling coal.You can't cool her down with a turbo spooling up and you can melt her down right quick.Timing is'nt going to change her from rolling coal to burning clean,no matter where you set it from 6-10 BTDC.Caution.Don't say I didn't warn ya lol.
I haven't messed with the fuel though. This is a mini Moose from Mel and I haven't touched it. I do have the timing backed down to where it doesn't rattle too much and the smoke only happens at medium-hard acceleration. I will get timed but I definitely don't wanna melt anything prior. Surely it would be ok in its current state for a while. The pump line is about a dimes width to the DRIVERS SIDE of the static timing mark on the housing. No white/blue smoke at all though. I'll post a link to it running.
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adamsanders
Full Access Member
Here's the link to it running after re adjusting the timing to as mentioned above. Sounds like a diesel to me.
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adamsanders
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Also I had another question in regards to the slow starting when hot. What is the most likely culprit? It spins pretty quick when cold but when hot it just doesn't seem to spin it off fast enough. Every component could be questionable but I definitely don't wanna throw parts at it. I know the cables probably need replacing. Here's a picture of my passenger side battery ground. How many feet of cable do I need to replace these. I have the equipment to crimp triple ought cable and the terminals. I just need to know how many feet? Thanks
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Probably the starter.However don't replace it without new 2/0 (minimum) gauge wires or else it's just going to get tired again in short order.Don't ya love these old IDI trucks? Always needing something.They're a great way to keep ya poor.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
About how many feet of 2/0 cable would I need approximately? 20ft?
If youre doing positive and negative I would say 16-18 ft. Idle sounds great to me, dont see any smoke you were referring to?
Edit. Saw youre post describing it only under medium to heavy load. How does your air filter look? If it occurs in most your normal driving I would advise imediatly getting a egt gauge to make sure you arent cooking anything.
Edit. Saw youre post describing it only under medium to heavy load. How does your air filter look? If it occurs in most your normal driving I would advise imediatly getting a egt gauge to make sure you arent cooking anything.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
Yea it subsided after I backed the timing back off some. Now it only smokes at medium-heavy acceleration. It's not blinding clouds like it was either but it's definitely there. I'm fine with this though, just don't wanna cook pistons.
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Watch your egt gauge and you won't have to worry about melting pistons. 1150 is about the max for these engines.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
I do not have an egt gauge, might look into getting one. Is the sensor there or do I need a probe/bung to place in the exhaust?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
You will need to buy everything.
Right but Mel could only calibrate the pump at a fuel setting unknown to him,as to how your particular truck would run.You have to adjust it to your truck.No reman IP can be calibrated exactly for everyone's truck.N/A engines can't take much in the way for smoking out the exhaust.If you had an EGT gauge you'd no doubt be out there turning her down a flat within the hour.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Yup.Right but Mel could only calibrate the pump at a fuel setting unknown to him,as to how your particular truck would run.You have to adjust it to your truck.No reman IP can be calibrated exactly for everyone's truck.N/A engines can't take much in the way for smoking out the exhaust.If you had an EGT gauge you'd no doubt be out there turning her down a flat within the hour.
Pretty much: Smoke = high EGTs. Turn it down until you only see a very slight haze at WOT when flooring it up a hill(engine under maximum load) and you'll keep the EGTs sane, *without* sacrificing power.
(On a NA motor; turbo setups need different adjustment)
Remember, you are only turning down the *maximum* fueling here; the rest is controlled by your foot.
The fuel screw also changes the fuel curve that Mel takes a lot of time to develop, I've spoken with him extensively about this, and it is not recommended to adjust his pumps past what they are set at since it will really change how they perform. The only thing that changes the max fuel output is your right foot, if it's too smokey or too hot, don't put your foot down that much
