New(ish) to me 6.9, help!

[CEllett12]

Heya, new to this forum so forgive me for any forbidden sins I may commit.
I recently nabbed a 1985 f-250 6.9L 4speed 4wd from a work buddy and I have some issues i’ve been working through.

(I am in no way a diesel mech. but i’ve had my fair share of blinker fluid fill-ups)

Here’s what i’d like some help with…

1. The clutch is “stuck” to the floor when pressed, but not “bad”

Explanation: So i’m fairly certain the clutch is sticky (as in the bracket that connects to the petal is rusted/stuck.) Any info on how this could be cleared or wd40’ed would be appreciated.
———
2. No-start

Explanation: Pretty sure it’s a fuel issue… Currently bleeding the valve and replacing the injectors (They’re factory, and I got a decent deal on some new ones, so why not)

3. Leaking block heater.

Explanation: After some cranking of the engine while bleeding the air out the fuel lines, a **** puddle of coolant has magically appeared on the ground… After closer inspection the block heater just above the starter motor is dripping, so I’d either replace it or cap it off… I’m in Oregon so it’s not too terribly cold…

Other than that… solid rig…
Thank you for your wisdom!
>Pics for reference

EDIT: Push button glow plugs, probably works…

 

[Brian VT]

Welcome.
On the subject of "new" injectors. Most of them that you will find for sale are likely worse than what was in there (unless those are also aftermarket junk). So I wouldn't go through that effort unless you know they have been rebuilt properly and pop tested. Bad injectors usually won't prevent it from starting, it will just run poorly.

Start by disconnecting a wire from the fuel safety shutoff and then reconnecting it. You should hear a click verifying that it is opening.

 

[CEllett12]

Yes, fuel shutoff on the Injector Pump clicks as it should. Fuel is bleeding through the lines.

 

[rreegg]

Regarding the clutch pedal you may consider looking into the "heim joint" mod but not sure that's 100% your issue

Clutch pedal Heim Joint Mod Complete!

Finally got tired of pushing the clutch pedal thru the floorboard to shift and got off my keister and got the mod done.:Whatever: While digging around under the dash I found that the firewall had the TSB done for the structural weakness. Well for a grand total of $5.67 and 1 1/2 hrs of knuckle...

www.oilburners.net

 

[Brian VT]

Crack open one injector at a time and see that fuel is leaking there when you turn it over.
If fuel is getting to most all the injectors then my next guess would be the glow system. You haven't mentioned anything about yours and how it has been acting.

FYI, you won't find many fans of using ether here so approach that subject cautiously if you are considering it.
It can be used but only under controlled situations.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I think there's air in your clutch master cylinder. The heim joint might be over the top at this point. Just yeah, shoot some pb blaster on the clutch pedal brackets and try to get someone to help you bleed it maybe.

The glows plugs are probably done for. Shoot a bit of ether on the air filter, not in the intake and spin it over and see what happens. As far as the block heater leaking, well the block can crack there, but it's usually the 83-84 blocks that are prone to that. You probably just need to plug/replace it.

 

[CEllett12]

Definitely looks like it’s leaking OUT of the heater, not around it… I’m guessing the plugs work (push button) because it fires on a tiny bit of ether… Don’t want to use a lot because i don’t feel like blowing a head.

 

[CEllett12]

Crack open one injector at a time and see that fuel is leaking there when you turn it over.
If fuel is getting to most all the injectors then my next guess would be the glow system. You haven't mentioned anything about yours and how it has been acting.

FYI, you won't find many fans of using ether here so approach that subject cautiously if you are considering it.
It can be used but only under controlled situations.

Will do, I’ve tried cracking all of them at once since that’s what a buddy recommended. Ether is on the table but not in considerable amounts, have not used it much at all.

As for the glow plugs, it’s a push button. I hear clicks from a relay in the engine bay. Only one or two clicks, not repeating clicks.

 

[CEllett12]

Regarding the clutch pedal you may consider looking into the "heim joint" mod but not sure that's 100% your issue

Clutch pedal Heim Joint Mod Complete!

Finally got tired of pushing the clutch pedal thru the floorboard to shift and got off my keister and got the mod done.:Whatever: While digging around under the dash I found that the firewall had the TSB done for the structural weakness. Well for a grand total of $5.67 and 1 1/2 hrs of knuckle...

www.oilburners.net

I definitely think this is it… more like 90% sure but the guy i bought it from said the whole clutch system was replaced and overhauled. I can visibly see rust when peeking my head under the dash.

 

[Old Goat]

If your Relay clicks for the GP`s, then the Relay is manually operated by the Toggle switch.

To hook up a manual toggle (Momentary) for the 83 - 86 6.9. run a positive wire (Key on) to the toggle with an inline Fuse.
The other wire, run it from the Toggle to the Passenger side, and connect it to the post the Purple wire it connected to, remove the Purple wire.

The relay of the Fender is the Starter relay.
The Relay below it on the flat part. is the GP Relay.

To check if the GP`s are working, remove each wire from each GP. use one of those Ice Pick testers with the light in it.
Connect the other end to positive post on the battery. Touch the pick on the tip of the GP. If it lights up, it is a working plug.
it wont tell you how good a plug it is, may not be getting hot enough.

The other test is using a DVM and check the OHMs. don`t remember what it is.

If you replace them. Motorcraft ZD-1 plugs. Don`t cheapen out on cheaper plugs, don`t last and swell, break off etc... and cause problems.

If the plugs do not work, it ain`t going to start.
Do not use ether and the GPs together.
I think you did say you have fuel at the Injectors.

Diesels need Fuel, Air, heat and Compression to start. You don`t need air in the fuel lines, if you do, it will not start. needs to be an air tight system.


Goat