1986 6.9 IDI - Washington

The_Count

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I recently bought a 1986 6.9l IDI. It has 360,000 miles and was a farm truck, which is pretty much it’s new purpose besides towing. The interior is in outstanding shape amazingly. I’ve installed new injectors, plugs, fuel filter, oil, headlights. It has a Garrett turbo but the line running to the gauge was pinched. I was told by the seller that it produced max 10 psi. The only other gauge it had was EGT. I have some new MaxTow gauges on the way which include boost, egt, and fuel pressure. It ran strong to start with, it runs better now. I will be pulling the engine and bringing what I need to the machine shop. It’s about rebuilding it myself and knowing my whole truck, nothing else. I would also like to install a ZF5 at that point. That’s future business.

I’ve put in a stereo and speakers I had sitting in the shop. I 3D printed a 3-gauge pod instead of spending more money. The previous owner did some of their own wiring that I saw once I removed the dash. There are some wires that were cut that I haven’t been able to trace what they go to yet, but that’s a lack of time issue. They installed a DikJak battery shut off. I see the use, but I’m not especially fond of losing all my radio presets every time I use it. I would prefer to keep it, as **** heads are in town and steal everything that’s not bolted down. So, I’m currently making a separate run from the battery to a new fuse box I bought which will run the radio power, my CB, and lights I install etc. I’m probably forgetting a lot that I’ve done as it is still farm life and I’m wrapping up Summer to button down for Winter. Side note, I gathered all of my information from this site to perform everything including two vinegar washes of the radiator using distilled water for the mixture and flushing. I removed the bolt (forgot the name) underneath when flushing that’s above the starter. I still can’t budge the one on the other side. After flushing, I used Thermocure for about 5 days, driving it an hour each day, then flushed again with distilled water. I’m still working on flushing all the crap out, but I have the correct coolant and radiator cap to put on once done. Every fluid and filter I bought the correct ones by researching this site.

Today, I’m working on connecting the ungrounded and grounded wires to my new fuse box, but I’m questioning if these two wires running from the battery through the firewall can be zip tied together. I was concerned about magnetic flux between the two (I know AC better than DC), so that’s probably my first question. Can they be run side by side without issue? I’ll try to upload the pictures here. The other question (I’ll also try to add pic) is that when trying to clean some bluish debris off the connector that connects to the speedometer/fuel gauge/amps etc. I accidently broke off a metal tab that goes to a wire labeled #13. I don’t know if this is going to be a huge problem when putting the dash back together, but I would like to know before I attempt it. Any advice appreciated.
 

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Reggie f250

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Welcome to oilburners. Sounds like you're making good progress fixing it up. The easiest way to fix the terminals is to get a connector from the junkyard and change out the bad terminals. The other wires can be tied together no problem. The factory ties everything together in one harness with no problems. The only wires the are sensitive to magnetic Flux are sensor wires to computers.
 

rreegg

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Oh snap! What's up @The_Count I saw this truck on CL and had to control myself big time because it looked awesome! The flat bed seems to be in great condition along with the interior. Cheers and awesome to see you posting on here. Welcome
 

Reno Lamb

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We got a beautiful XLT Lariat F250 4x4 out of WA. The dummy who bought it up there drove it down to TX without ever checking the oil. And it has a C6 tranny so rpm on the freeway consumed a lot of oil due to that big 6.9 ring end gap. It seized from low oil down in TX. But the interior, like yours, is in remarkable good shape. An XLT Lariat with crank windows? Yep.

Alas, the floor pan is rusted, at the sills and pillars, so she's a parts truck. In fact, the front clip is going onto a 97 F350 4x4 cclb. Pics of that will follow in a few months.
 

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Noiseydiesel

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Being the coward that I am, I like wrapping any power wires through the dash in a section of vacuum hose for additional insulation.
Mysterious bolt is the engine block drain. A 6 point socket comes in handy. Running the engine to temp to allow expansion might help.
Installing radiator petcocks for future drains might be in order. A kill switch on the I/P ~ G/P Circuit might be in order.
Another consideration is the eventual swap to an electric F/P might be a reason to rewire the kill switch.
 

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