What to do before new IP?

adamsanders

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So I ordered a Moose Jr. from Mel today to replace the pump on my 1991 7.3L. I have a return like kit that I thought about putting on while I wait for the new pump. Is this as straightforward as it looks? I would like to not break the injectors loose as I don't wanna getting dirt in one and risk having to replace those as well.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Yes. It's very simple once you have the pump off. About the hardest part is replacing the o-rings and that isn't hard at all. Be sure t lube the new o-rings before putting the return caps on. When I install the cars, I like to use a large, worn flat tip screwdriver or a pry bar to help seat them. Sometimes they will feel good after you install them, but they can be pushed a little bit farther down. I put the screwdriver on the top of the cap and give the end of the handle a little bump with the palm of my hand. Sometimes you can actually see the cap move down farther onto the injector. I don't know whether not doing this would cause a leak or nor, but I figure it's best to play it safe. No, the injectors do not need to even be loosened.
 

Macrobb

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Exactly as above. I believe in using high-temp lithium wheel bearing grease for greasing the caps - it seems to help them seal far more than Vasoline does.
 

adamsanders

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This kit also has copper washers? Are those for installing injectors? So the way I understand it, take the cap off and there's an o ring on top of the injector. Replace the o ring, cap, and hose/clamps correct?
 

snicklas

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The copper washer is the sealing sealing surface between the pintle (tip) end of the injector and the head. The return components are 2 O-Rings on the injector, the plastic cap and the rubber hoses.....

To replace the return lines:

1. Loosen injector hard line nuts and gently move the lines.
2. Remove the plastic caps and rubber lines. These can be used as a template for the new ones.
3. Remove old O-Rings from the injectors, remember there are two.
4. Replace the O-Rings, put the first one on, and roll it into the top O-Ring groove and leave it. Then roll the second one over the top of the first one. It will stretch and then roll to the second groove. This makes damaging the O-Rings less likely.
5. Generously lube the O-Rings.... many have used different things, I would recommend proper O-Ring lube.
6. Inspect the inside of the replacement caps for casting flash. A burr of plastic inside the cap is one of the biggest causes of cut O-Rings
6. I would cut and install the rubber lines onto the caps, make sure the length is just right. You don't want the hose to pull or push on the caps, this can cause a leak.
7. Install caps on the injectors. There should be a definite pop as they seat. An aid in getting them to seat, use a deep socket that is about the same size as the top of the cap, and give them a thump with the heel of your hand.......
8. HAND THREAD AND TIGHTEN the nut as much as possible. They will easily cross thread, and the line nuts are harder than the injectors and will damage the thread on the injector.

Once everything is done, fire it up and check for leaks...... enjoy your easy starts......
 

adamsanders

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Thanks for such a great guide, it went smoothly. One thing I did run into was a brass "extender" on my no. 1 cylinder. I've attached a pic. What is this and does it really need to be there? I had to remove it to do the cap.

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Thewespaul

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I would have a new fuel filter in when you change the ip, not a required item but not a bad thing to do for sure
 

Macrobb

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The brass spacer is basically... a spacer. You have to keep it for the line length, and I guess if you have a specific timing setup you can use it... other than that it's just a spacer.
 

adamsanders

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Ok thanks I'll leave it on there. With the pump off the truck is it normal for gear inside the housing to be loose? Not loose enough to jump a tooth or anything but definitely some play when you wiggle it?
 

gnathv

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Yes it will wiggle without being bolted to the pump. That's why you can't change time or shouldn't with it running.
 

IDIoit

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FYI, Mel gives you an extended warranty if you purchase 2 of his hastings filters.

I disagree with the above, a new filter is a MUST when changing IP's
 

adamsanders

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I changed the filter as I was trouble shooting the old pump so it has only been used for a few minutes of run time, 0 actual miles.
 

towtruckdave

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You may want to familiarize yourself with the pitfalls you can fall into when installing your fresh injection pump. If you even start to tighten the housing bolts without the IP drive gear in perfect mesh, you can damage your IP and gears. Watch you do not get sealer on the gears.
 

adamsanders

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How would I know if the IP drive gear was in perfect mesh? It doesn't rotate when I try to spin it?
 
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