What to do before new IP?

[adamsanders]

Thanks for suggestion. I think for now I'm going to bypass the FSV valve and just pull from the front tank. I'll probably just run new rubber fuel line along the same path as the original metal for the time being as well. Then I'll just hook it directly to the lift pump and leave the metal line beside it in case I want to go back to two tanks. The little rubber house that connects the metal like to the lift pump seemed suspect to me to me anyways. So a return line leak doesn't typically cause running issues right? I know the No. 1 cylinder does have a line back up to filter housing I suppose air could get back into the supply there and I did notice wetness around that cap. I used new Viton o rings but it seems the cap just wasn't big enough to sit on the injector properly. I'll look into it.

 

[SLC97SR5]

Did you get this truck running correctly?

What was the cause of the hot start?

Still happy with the Moose IP?

 

[adamsanders]

This truck runs great now. I have put about 5,000 miles on it over the past year. The hot start took me quite a bit of time to get worked out though. I put the mini moose IP on and still had the hot start issue to a certain extent. (Not as bad as before, it would usually crank after about 6-7 seconds). I eventually wised up and replaced all the battery cables with brand new 4/0 cable and put a DB electric starter on it. It fires up really quickly now for over a year, even in the single digits, unplugged. I actually wound up buying two new group 65 batteries as well when my old batteries showed the first sign of slowing down. So it's hard to say what my issue was ultimately, or it could have been a combination of things. I would say the most important thing on these trucks is to make sure the ENTIRE starting circuit is top notch, including glow plugs. If its spinning over extremely fast, and you still have a hot start issue I would then look at the IP. $300 or so replaces the whole starting system if you shop around.

 

[SLC97SR5]

I've done every bit of that.

I've never had issues with cold starts it has only been hot starts. Cool water gets her lit off every time.

I have ordered my second Moose pump and was getting depressed after reading your thread. I'm glad you got it figured out!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

So it's hard to say what my issue was ultimately, or it could have been a combination of things.

At work, we call similar things "an accumulation of errors".

 

[Macrobb]

That's exactly how it is on an IDI - A 'barely in spec' pump will work fine except under worst case conditions - slow cranking speed, when hot(more gap). Cool it or make it crank faster = no problem.
On the other hand, a 'close tolerance' pump will start fine much slower.

It's all a 'stacking of tolerances' or 'accumulation of errors' situation, so any one thing changing might well fix it.