towtruckdave
Resident Nutcase
Actually you should be able to feel a little play back and forth. It is hard to explain in words, just be very careful.
What to do before new IP?
- Thread starter adamsanders
- Start date
adamsanders
Full Access Member
I don't think the housing would bolt down flush with the engine if the gear was not in mesh
adamsanders
Full Access Member
Anyone have a how to on setting up the cold idle solenoid? I have one but I don't think it has ever worked as the bolt that comes out of the end was a pretty good distance from even touching the throttle lever on my old pump. I've heard that the timing gets advanced a little when cold as well. Does this solenoid do that?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
No. The cold timing advance is separate.
For the high idle to work, you have to depress the pedal. If doesn't have enough power to raise it.
Iirc, you just unscrew it.
Your temperature switch for both could be bad. It's behind the thermostat. About $70 bucks.
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For the high idle to work, you have to depress the pedal. If doesn't have enough power to raise it.
Iirc, you just unscrew it.
Your temperature switch for both could be bad. It's behind the thermostat. About $70 bucks.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Use a 1/4 inch wrench or ratchet (I used a Gear Wrench) and unscrew until it just touches the arm. But as Jasper said, after the ignition is turned on you have to push the throttle to get it to hold the throttle. It won't push it on its own.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
Ok cool. I'm about to start the IP change now. The only part I dread is priming the new pump. Would it be ok to just put it in 4th gear or so and drag it around until it fires? Obviously with someone behind the wheel to steer
With engine OFF, unscrew the solenoid bolt until it just touches the IP throttle tab. Takes a 1/4" wrench.
Like said, before a start with key ON, you have to cycle the go peddle once to set the Hi Idle.
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to prime it quickly take the glowplugs out and spin the engine over with the starter until you get fuel at injector lines. You can crack open the lines at the injector and just look for it to get wet. Make sure you give the starter time to cool off after cranking for more than 10-15 seconds.
Also, hold throttle wide open during the priming phase. At idle the pump doesn't move much fuel.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
So is that a no on the pull start? The reason I ask is because I'm afraid my batteries are not super strong and usually die fairly quick if I have to do any extended cranking
You can do that too
adamsanders
Full Access Member
Ok I am really starting to lose patience with this truck, I hope someone can help me. I put my new Mini Moose pump on from Mel and the install went smoothly. However after cranking on the truck for at least 2 hours, I couldn't get the thing to hit. I cracked the lines open until I had wetness around the injectors and then closed them. The FSV is working. However I am not getting any fuel from the filter head while cranking with the Schrader valve pressed. This is a completely new problem. I know for a fact last week fuel sprayed out when I held this down while cranking. I know my problem lies here but I am at a loss on how to troubleshoot. Funny thing is the truck did start for a brief second and died somewhere in the cranking procedure but didn't show any signs of hitting after. This is when I checked the valve and found no fuel. The lift pump is pretty new and like I said, I got fuel there last week. Haven't messed with anything prior to the filter either.
Sounds like your fuel pump aint pumping
adamsanders
Full Access Member
Yes I agree but Idk why it would quit priming with an IP change. It definitely was putting out fuel before this and I didn't mess with it.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
What brand of lift pump
