Unhook the fuel line from the tank entering the lift pump and run a new line to it temporarily and put it in a jug of diesel and see if the filter starts to get full.
What to do before new IP?
- Thread starter adamsanders
- Start date
adamsanders
Full Access Member
I will do this tomorrow evening. Seems simple enough. Lets say it works and my FSV is clogged up (i do have the 1/4 tank=empty problem), any way I can just bypass it with new fuel line? I don't care about the extra capacity
79jasper
Chickenhawk
You can clamp rubber hose right onto the sending unit barbs.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
adamsanders
Full Access Member
So just to be clear, if the lift pump will pump fuel directly from a 5 gallon jug, is the FSV the next logical place to go? I just wanna lay out a game plan to get this thing done today
Well,that or a bad pickup in one of your tanks.Make sure both tanks are at least 1/2 full and then try the other tank.Could be a bad pickup in a tank too.Main thing is,to check to see if the lift pump is working first.That way your not digging to deep.You know how these China made replacement parts can just fail without notice.It's a wonder we're not all broke down on the side of the road all the time lol.The older the vehicle gets,the more it becomes made in China with all the replaced parts.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
So I got my pump primed up. I wound up running the lift pump to a gas can and it pumped fuel brilliantly. I then pressurized the fuel tank and blew fuel out of the open line. Reconnected it to the lift pump and the truck fired on the first hit.
Now for some bad news. The truck ran great. however it rolls black smoke at anything over 1/4 throttle probably. The timing marks are lined up and I know that doesn't mean much but still. The IP gear is correct with the dowel at 4 o'clock on compression TDC. And to beat it all it wouldn't start when it was hot. However, the exhaust is pouring black smoke when the engine is turning. I know this is classic advanced timing but how far to the driver side of the truck should the pump realistically need to go?
Now for some bad news. The truck ran great. however it rolls black smoke at anything over 1/4 throttle probably. The timing marks are lined up and I know that doesn't mean much but still. The IP gear is correct with the dowel at 4 o'clock on compression TDC. And to beat it all it wouldn't start when it was hot. However, the exhaust is pouring black smoke when the engine is turning. I know this is classic advanced timing but how far to the driver side of the truck should the pump realistically need to go?
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Did you replace the injectors when you put a new IP on? It's highly recommended that you replace both the IP & injectors at the same time.
A junior moose pump will produce smoke, but it sounds like your truck needs to be professionally timed. That may help reduce emissions.
A junior moose pump will produce smoke, but it sounds like your truck needs to be professionally timed. That may help reduce emissions.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
I did not but I did talk to Mel about this on the phone when I bought the pump and he indicated that I could get a miss but not another hot start problem. I did back the timing down a little more. About a dimes width to the drivers side of the static mark. Smoking definitely improved and it seemed to start better. But I also had it hooked to a 2016 powerstroke's batteries so the starter was humming. I just don't understand why the pump needs to go so far to the drivers side.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Just because the dowel on the drive gear is "around" 4 o'clock you still could be a tooth off without realizing it. Not a very exact science, IMO, to go by the dowel pin.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
Well the top two mating bolts are parallel to the top of the engine and the bottom bolt is as vertical as I can get it. I really don't think it's off a tooth. Any thing is possible I suppose. Also I am no diesel mechanic by any means but it was not clattering obscenely much or anything. Sounded very smooth but still "dieselish" lol.
N/A pumps put out far more fuel than N/A's can handle lol.You'll need to turn your fuel down.Back when I was N/A I installed a reman N/A ip and I had to turn the fuel down a flat and a half to 2 flats or so from max.When I turned it down,I didn't lose an ounce of power but I gained a full power level from the pedal,whereas before the last 3/4 was just "blank" and just blew dark gray smoke.
N/A's are very sensitive and even their ip's provide enough juice for one of the common turbo kits.I maxed it out when I installed a banks turbo and had all the boost it was advertised for and a few more lbs even,as someone adjusted the wastegate before I bought it.It wasn't until I installed an intercooler where I wanted a bull moose.Then it was a perfect match (even then with a smoke puff limiter.)
N/A's are very sensitive and even their ip's provide enough juice for one of the common turbo kits.I maxed it out when I installed a banks turbo and had all the boost it was advertised for and a few more lbs even,as someone adjusted the wastegate before I bought it.It wasn't until I installed an intercooler where I wanted a bull moose.Then it was a perfect match (even then with a smoke puff limiter.)
If I remember correct you got a mini moose pump right? Should be setup fine fuel wise, timing is probably the issue here
adamsanders
Full Access Member
Yep Mini Moose from Mel. It's runs really good, just "rolls coal" past a certain point on the throttle. Definitely don't wanna mess with the pump settings as I trust it is correct. It was getting dark as I done the last timing adjustment and the smoke did diminish some so I'll see how that does tomorrow. I may try to take a video and see what a more trained ear would think.
sjwelds
Full Access Member
Still and all, if you don't have the equipment to time it properly, you are still just guessing.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
True, I'm gonna call around and find someone to do it. I have an "in" at a heavy machinery shop that has been servicing everything from dump trucks to huge cranes since the 80's. Think it would be possible they would have the equipment to do it? Also, since it did start hot when hooked to known good batteries, I inspected my cables and the ground cable insulation is split for at least 1.5 ft and all the strands inside are kind of "green". I assume this is not good. Where could I get some cheap cable to replace it? Thanks
