'86 Extended cab project thread

[BlindAmbition]

Started wiring today

Tucking wire as much as I can, just because. Clean engine bay is pleasing, can use it as a resume as well if I wanted to be a mechanic I suppose.

Fishtaped the passenger side headlight, turn signal, and running lights through to the driverside, covered everything in split sleeving and tessa taped the ends. All connections soldered. Running dedicated grounds to inside the cab so I don't have to deal with bad grounds.

All lights are LED, found glass housings for H4 lights, put black rtv on the seam between the glass and the body of the housing before install. Found a bunch of junkyard 3157 sockets, snagged those and installed. May redo with brand new ones, however I trust a junkyard socket more than a fresh from the boat socket. 16ga wire for everything since LEDs run hardly any current. Grounds are being connected together at driver side and then 12ga into the cab from there to handle the load of everything

So for the passenger side, just turn signal, headlight, running light.

Driver side - Horns, TS, HL, running light, washer, and.... I think that's it.

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[BlindAmbition]

Last pic, only 5 allowed. I use LED headlights without little fans on them. Passive heatsinks, one less failure point. Been running them in my car for years without issue.

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[Farmer Rock]

Dealing with issues related to

Exhaust - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/funky-exhaust-setup.89305/

Driveshaft - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/2wd-c6-to-zf5-driveshaft-question.89344/

Throwout bearing - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/zf5-swap-another-throwout-bearing-question.89335/

Waiting on the crankshaft repair sleeve to arrive so I can do my rear main seal and install the ZF5 before measuring the driveshaft length and figuring out what to do. Throwout bearing is on the way as well, can get a flywheel bearing locally in town, LUK kits don't seem to have the greatest reputation for those either. Rest of the kit seems solid enough.

TI have a 155" wheelbase, the cab and chassis seem to have 160.8. Seems to me it would be easier to shorten a driveshaft than lengthen it so I am going to hit a parts yard and grab the driveshaft from one of the ZF5 cab and chassis models. Hoping they aren't the models with parking brakes, those are the same as a 4x4 end so driveshaft length would be off still. In any case, junkyards are sweet and it's always worth checking out.

FWIW,The f-super duty trucks had the driveshaft parking brake like the medium duty trucks. They were the only ones that had that, so you should look for a f350 or f250. I am just pointing that out so you know what to look for, not trying to split hairs or anything.



Rock

 

[BlindAmbition]

FWIW,The f-super duty trucks had the driveshaft parking brake like the medium duty trucks. They were the only ones that had that, so you should look for a f350 or f250. I am just pointing that out so you know what to look for, not trying to split hairs or anything.



Rock

Appreciate the info, I search the pictures on the parts yards before I pick one to head to and that does help. Anything with the hydroboost in the engine bay isn't of use with that info, same for if it has a 4x4 shifter inside the cab.


Rockauto has a Dorman unit that solves my problems, lol. It's only $1000+ after shipping and tax.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,976220,drive+shaft,2308

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I am going to hit a parts yard and grab the driveshaft from one of the ZF5 cab and chassis models. Hoping they aren't the models with parking brakes,

No, FSuperdutys (F450s) had the driveline brake. The cab and chassis trucks were all F350s (as far as I know) so they didn't have a driveline brake.

 

[BlindAmbition]

All rear wiring installed, used 7 wire trailer wire ran to the rear of the truck with a distribution box to the trailer and 5th wheel sockets as well as the rear lights. Deka East Penn 7 wire 14/4, 12/2, 10/1 cable.

Trailer/5th wheel sockets, rear lights, fuel tank senders, and fuel pump all wired

Super capacitors arrived

Going to install next to passenger battery, wired in parallel with the frame starter battery with a battery isolator solenoid to keep the setup separate the passenger battery.

Will use the passenger battery for the glow plugs and the supercap/starter battery to start the truck. Also, the supercap will smooth out the hit of the electric fan when it powers on since the inrush current is something like 70A and I want a passive solution rather than PWM circuitry. I'll likely start a separate thread once I actually get going on that part of the project.

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[gendoc]

its great to see imagination & theory in process for the goal !

 

[BlindAmbition]

A little more info on these - 2.7v, 3000F (that's Farad, big F), with a short pulse current of 2400A for 1 second. Benefits are that it should prolong battery life significantly, provide better starting and charging, and prolong alternator life. It's also possible to jump start from a slightly dead battery.

 

[gendoc]

 

[BlindAmbition]

Supercapacitor installed, went a different route than listed above.

Separate thread for that is here - https://www.oilburners.net/threads/supercapacitor-ultracapacitor-starting-bank.89598/#post-1081588

 

[BlindAmbition]

Aluminum rear diff cover installed along with a LubeLocker gasket. Fluid seemed original, replaced with Valvoline 75w140 synthetic. Checked the rear diff plug before starting, saw a bolt head, so proceeded. When I went to remove the plug to fill it I realized the previous owner had trouble removing it and rigged some horrible nonsense in it's place. A bolt with a rubber gasket after a hole was drilled through the old plug. I found the magnet from it in the bottom of the diff housing.

Got a pipe nipple extractor and was able to remove the old plug, reinstalled a new pipe plug in its place.

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[BlindAmbition]

Wiring proceeding along. Engine bay largely done. Relay box completed, Trombetta 100a relay installed for E-fan high mode, White Rodgers battery isolator relay installed.

I installed a 10 second delay relay for the trigger on the battery isolator relay. Because the truck has glow plugs, I need to keep that power source separate so it does not drain the super capacitor. Glow plug switch also has a 10 second relay so I don't have to hold the button, just because. Starting sequence is as follows:

Insert key
Press glow plug button, wait for light to turn off
Turn key to run
Press start button within ten seconds

Sounds good in theory, I'm about 2 days away from finishing wiring. A few of the larger power cables are not connected so the truck cab wiring isn't live until I'm ready.

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[BlindAmbition]

Had a driveshaft made and went ahead and installed that. Nothing fancy to report, it's a driveshaft.

 

[BlindAmbition]

Installed a remote door lock setup, just tested it and it works great. Moved all my door lock and window switches to a custom center switchplate. I found some door panels meant for a manual crank window and will install my tweeter speakers in the hole for the crank.

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[BlindAmbition]

Center console switch panel, top left to bottom right:

ON-ON-ON switch for headlights and running lights
Parking brake light
Driver side windows
Power locks
Passenger side windows
Wiper/washer control
Blue - Glow plug switch
Black - Starter button
Glow plug light
ON-ON toggle for glow plug switch, switches between 10 second relay and having manual control
Blue toggle - High idle
Silver knob - Was going to be dimmer for instrument lights, unsure what I'm going to do with that spot.


ON-ON-ON switch allows me to have it setup as an OFF-ON-ON instead of ON-OFF-ON for the headlights and running lights. Basically I can have the switch throw all the way down, click up one position for running/parking lights, then up one more for parking and headlights. If I used an ON-OFF-ON switch then if I had my running lights on and wanted to turn headlights on, then there would be a moment where all the lights turned off as I switched over. It's a really minor detail but was worth it to me.