Whats Broke On Your Truck

[bigtex]

E brake wont hold the truck
Dvr door is bent and doesn't seal
Key switch wont start the truck
T-case leaks
front left custom leaf pack is bent so the truck has a gangster lean
heater doesn't blow for nuthin.
Cab has had the **** beaten out of it, hence the bent door
headache rack is tilted back an inch due to a slightly buckled flat bed

 

[FordGuy100]

See, I knew everyone would like this. Also makes me feel good knowing that everyone else has problems with theirs

 

[HammerDown]

Both fuel tank pick-ups/showerheads > I only get 100 miles out of each tank.
Driver-side door speaker died.

Rust, it's a losing battle with an old truck > under the drivers floor pan and lower radiator supports. And of course, the rear wheel-well I paid to have fixed few years back is once again starting to bubble.

 

[79jasper]

Both fuel tank pick-ups/showerheads > I only get 100 miles out of each tank.
Driver-side door speaker died.

Rust, it's a losing battle with an old truck > under the drivers floor pan and lower radiator supports. And of course, the rear wheel-well I paid to have fixed few years back is once again starting to bubble.

Sounds like your pickup tubes are rusted out/broken off up high if you're only getting 100 miles. Or you get a real crappy mpg. Mine I could go a couple hundred before it would start sucking air at a quarter. And that's some ricky bobby driving(I WANNA GO FAST!!!).
Sounds like your wheel well was bondo'd, do it right and get a weld in patch.
JMO

 

[trackspeeder]

Much easier to post what isn't broken on the 90.

Transmission, transfer case, and the wiper motor.

 

[HammerDown]

Sounds like your pickup tubes are rusted out/broken off up high if you're only getting 100 miles. Or you get a real crappy mpg. Mine I could go a couple hundred before it would start sucking air at a quarter. And that's some ricky bobby driving(I WANNA GO FAST!!!).
Sounds like your wheel well was bondo'd, do it right and get a weld in patch.
JMO

I'm the original owner...NO BONDO...I bought it new in 1988.
The drivers floor started rotting because, water would drain down from the top hood/fended corner to the ground for a few days after a rain or when I washed it. I'm guessing some debris just got-up in there to start the rust process.
I've been one to ALWAYS wash-out the undercarriage to remove road salt etc. So much for doing through all that extra work.

 

[79jasper]

I'm the original owner...NO BONDO...I bought it new in 1988.
The drivers floor started rotting because, water would drain down from the top hood/fended corner to the ground for a few days after a rain or when I washed it. I'm guessing some debris just got-up in there to start the rust process.
I've been one to ALWAYS wash-out the undercarriage to remove road salt etc. So much for doing through all that extra work.

Oh lol my bad man. Well they say rust is like a disease.

 

[89dieselbko]

Guess ill fill out one of these, being bored and all!

89 bronco. Still have a dead IP, and nasty injectors (had em popped, only 3 were good. haha)
the 7.3 got sleeved and i almost have the short block assembled!

so the bad...
oil cooler needs rebuild
front clip and doors need rust work BAD
frame is a rusty mess, but solid enough for now.
has 1/2 ton axles with 3.55 gears
Rear end is dying after putting up with the 7.3 for a couple thousand miles
front manual hubs wont enguage...
rear end leaks
front caliper leaks, both rears leak. so stopping sucks
intermitent wipers only work on the slowest speed... slow/fast controls dont work
windshield ******* havent worked since like 2002
interior is in shambles
The new clutch slips, didnt allow proper break in before having to rock it on hillsides getting to pipeline job sites
ZF5 has syncs out in 2/3 and R, 1st is going out, it pops out of reverse if you take your hand off shifter, or remove pressure at all rather

The good?
Well it will be getting a 7.3 that was bored out then sleeved and bored back to stock specs with new internals for everything except cam/crank
got 26 MPG as my best out of it!
umm... o the body work is done on the quarters and rear gate, and its in epoxy primer.
guess thats the good.

95 f350 CCLB SRW - bad
351W gas engine
C6 trans that i recently learned ISNT broken, which means it just sucks stupid shift points
front leafs worn to hell
needs shocks all around
Needs new rear leafs
break lines, and the few fuel lines that arent plastic are so rusty its a HUGE miracle they dont leak
rear tank sender dont work AND the tank is rotted out
Front tank top is rotted out, and over 3/8 tank it seeps fuel rather quickly
Bed is shot, bent/tweaked/rotting
pass rear door is stuck shut. took panel off and its the mechanism not releasing, not sure how im going to remove that to change it out
none of the door locks work to lock the doors, no idea why
all 4 manual windows dont stay on track
interior is shot
front bench is hard as concrete and vinyl and sucks
EVERY BUSHING on the truck is junk. minus track bar ones
Engine leaks oil from everywhere
trans leaks ATF from bottem seal and input shaft seal
radiator leaks on both seams on both ends...
trans lines are rotted out and have been replaced with rubber fuel hose, and are about 2 feet extra wrapped around for some reason.

GOOD
New track bar bushings
Seats 6 with room for a cooler on the floor in the back
has new ujoints in front axles as well as wheel barrings and ball joints (starting this thing front to back)
It runs! (more then can be said about the engineless bronco)
4x4 engauges and xfer case WORK
New speakers! all 4 of the old ones were blown out
That ends the good...

Man now im depressed... I guess i had better get to work on this crap, but the 7.3 rebuild is eating all my money/time

 

[hce]

Front driveshaft vibrates, will have a new one monday. Knob on blinker switch missing. Needs a new seat cover.

 

[rhkcommander]

Engine, like completely.

Got it running from a pull start and it ran rough, no boost from turbo but its still spooling I think. Hoping thats just a bad boost leak. Starter melted the plastic washer where the electrical stud is, so it doesn't crank now. Such bad compression now, that glowplugs wouldn't start it in mild oregon winter temps as high as 60s. Ether wouldn't start it either. Ocassionally acted like its getting stuck when cranking (vrr vrr vrr r vrr vrr).

Radiator is patched back up by me, no idea if it holds water now or not since I found out the engine leaks coolant.

Body mounts are likely shot

Orig. springs

U-joints on both drivelines are shot

Tires are getting low on tread

Need new door hinge pins still

Can't think of the rest, don't want to right now cause its giving me a head ache

 

[idiabuse]

My bed is cracked so I cant use a tailgate. Have to remove it and weld it all up, PITA! Has to be done soon too.
Cracked and split onn the right side, just beat to hell. But the outside of the bed looks fine...


Javier

 

[prepowerstroke]

broken*
- windshield leaks on your legs when it rains
- broken u-joint in front axle.
- exhaust held up with a close hanger
- metal grits in my oil
- think my ip is on its way out
- left head light bucket is broken
- need a new positive battery wire
- needs a #1 injector line
- fuel gauge dont work right
- trany dont shift right sometimes when cold(automatic)
- engine runs kinda warm
- dont like to start when warm
- 4x4 light in dash is unpluged at t-case (i replaced it and couldnt get the thing plugged up and didnt care)

 

[c_silva88]

need front main seal, need a return line kit, oil cooler seeps a little,

 

[idi_econoline]

I used the kit from LMC truck and combined it with a set of GE Nighthawk Platinum bulbs. Noticeable improvement.

Mike

Mike (and others with the LMC kit), don't think I mentioned that a past thread covered some members' concerns about the relays that come with that kit:

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?60372-lmc-headlight-relay-harness