what is the easiest way to achieve 300hp with an IDI (not Cummins)?

88 Ford

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This is a good point. Gotta love Oilburners.

I guess the 7.3 would be a good choice for that reason.

The more I think about it, whether it's a 6.9 or a 7.3, I think the best thing is just to limit the boost to 20 or less but get it on early, with a turbo efficient at that level of boost, try to cool down the intake charge as much as possible, put the modified db2 on it and be happy with what you get. Of course, a little tinkering here and there may get it running even nicer.

That's my plan. Im not doing anything to the engine internally, but head studs! I'm just going to see what I can do by playing with the boost and fuel and then see what it does from there. I will also have water methanol on top of that. ;Sweet
 
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Darrin Tosh

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You just know that I have to say it,...:dunno




,...I just cant stop myself,...:eek:




,.....It has to come out,....cookoo




,.....Oh Gosh,..Here it goes!,...:yell:



what is the easiest way to achieve 300hp?


Install a Cummins!,..
;Sweet




There,.I feel much better now,....LOL
 

icanfixall

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Sorry but no company makes a turbo piston for a 6.9. You can have them custom made but thats really costly too. turbo rods are hard to find anywhere but the dealer. About 5 years ago I bought a set from Diesel Direct in Florida. they were $42.00 each and no core chrage. they told me they had two pallets full of them. chris was my contact. The dealer will charge you around 50 or 60 each plus a big core charge...
 

Agnem

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There. I've edited the thread title to shut up the "put a cummins in it" crowd. Nobody likes a broken record or a CD that skips. ;Really
 

FordGuy100

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20lbs of boost is all we really need. Heck the new 6.7 powerstrokes only make 20-25lbs of boost from the factory, and that generates 400hp and keeps EGT's down. The trick is to make that boost efficiently, we definatly need a bigger turbo.
 

towtruckdave

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20lbs of boost is all we really need. Heck the new 6.7 powerstrokes only make 20-25lbs of boost from the factory, and that generates 400hp and keeps EGT's down. The trick is to make that boost efficiently, we definatly need a bigger turbo.

That is what I believe too. Making a lot of boost is a waste if the exhaust backpressure is too high. This is why I want to clean up my heads around the bowls and ports. If I can get X amount of air in the cylinders at lesser boost, it will mean less backpressure in the exhaust, and less strain.

I am really getting anxious to put that TO4 turbo on my truck! :sly:love:
 

jam0o0

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prices from a spreadsheet i've got. they might not be updated

your budget cost list:
-moose pump 500-800
-moose injectors - 1000
-turbo back exhaust - 400
-intake - 150
-gauges - 150
that's what you can get for 2400.

real 300hp cost list:
-gauges - 150
-intake - 150
-inter-cooler - 1200 or 400
-turbo efficient at 20psi - $$$$
-cam - $$$
-moose pump 500-800
-moose injectors - 1000 or 400
-head studs - 700
-fancy head gaskets - $$$$
-custom exhaust manifolds/up-pipes - $$$$
-ats exhaust housing - 500
-turbo back exhaust - 400
it ends up at $5000. plus the stuff with $ next to it.
 
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rhkcommander

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Hypermax has performance wrist pins, I'd try them rather than try to find a piston/rod combo willing to accept larger en's.

The chip junk was a joke =). Afaik studs can hold 20 reliable.

If i were you I'd buy the ceramic coat and coat the exhaust, it'll cure when you drive it.

Stud heads would be a good idea, moose/dps pump. BB injectors do well and would save you some dollars for waking the truck up in other ways. Maybe propane. Cam grind while the head bolts are out. Custom exhaust and intake will help some. Might not be high HP but you'll have enough torque to do what you want/need. Probably just repeating myself but I'm still stuck on an iPhone:puke:

Make sure you check up on the cooling system, maybe grease the wheel bearings, etc.
 

rhkcommander

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Not sure, I've been meaning to call them and then buy/try them.

If I can make enough money I'd like to souper moose it, or did a db4 adaption. ;Sweet. For the time being I've got a fresh rebuilt ip
 

jam0o0

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prices from a spreadsheet i've got. i went and updated the prices with vendors. plus i changed my budget recommendation parts list.

your budget cost list:
-moose pump 500-800
-BB injectors - 350
-ebay inter-cooler - 400
-turbo back exhaust - 400
-intake - 100
-gauges - 200
that's what you can get for 2200.

real 300hp cost list:
-gauges - 200 (autometer)
-intake - 100 (BHAF + tubing)
-inter-cooler - 1400 (hypermax) or 400(ebay)
-turbo efficient at 20psi - $$$$
-cam - $$$
-moose pump 500-800
-injectors - 1100(moose) or 350(BB)
-head studs - 500 (ARP summit)
-fancy head gaskets - $$$$
-custom exhaust manifolds/up-pipes - $$$$
-ats exhaust housing - 500 (from memory might be wrong)
-turbo back exhaust - 400 (hypermax or PS with mods)
it ends up at $4000-5000. plus the stuff with $ next to it.
 

icanfixall

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The oem stock piston maker is and was Mahle. All the pistons turbo or non turbo are around 560 thous thick at the thinnest part of the domes. they are plenty strong in there stock condition. A non turbo 6.9 or 7.3 piston has a 28mm wrist pin. the turbo pistons ahve a 33mm wrist pin...
 

fez

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thanks for all the help i just got off the phone with a guy that has a older ats turbo kit for 850 he has no clue how many mile r on it is in good condition tho. is 850 to much? where is the best and cheapest place to order headstuds and witch r better arp or m11's. can i use a turbo for a 12v or a 7.3 powerstroke and how much fabricating would that take.
 

towtruckdave

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thanks for all the help i just got off the phone with a guy that has a older ats turbo kit for 850 he has no clue how many mile r on it is in good condition tho. is 850 to much? where is the best and cheapest place to order headstuds and witch r better arp or m11's. can i use a turbo for a 12v or a 7.3 powerstroke and how much fabricating would that take.

Well Fez, 850 bucks is a fair price for a used turbo setup if everything is there. This may be your best bet.

I bought my ARP studs from Summit for $300. That is for a 6.9. I would not stud a 7.3. The big 7.3 headbolts will do the job. If you are worried about their condition, you could buy new ones or have your bolts x-rayed, but it is probably not necessary.

A custom setup will be a lot of work with no guarantee of success, but if you do the work "in house", it could be the cheapest way to go.
 

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