What could be next!

[Ole BlackBetty]

Today I started removing injectors in preparartion to install new ones Ordered from type4, Russ. When I removed factory air box and CDR Hose I discovered, thick black oil in the CDR and CDR hose, about the consistancy of used wheel bearing grease. The oil at dipstick looks normal, I have recently changed the oil, probably only about 300 miles since last oil change. I was running Rotella previously, but switched to Delo with this last oil change due to price and some members saying our trucks seem to eat Rotella. Radiator coolant is nice and green, no signs of oil in water, radiator is about 1 inch low. Anyone have any words of encouragment, lol.

 

[purg113]

to me it sounds like build up from never being taken care of by PO

 

[icanfixall]

When was the last time you looked at this area for oil. If you have never been in there before I would not be concerned bout it. Now if it was lousey with oil that looked thinned with diesel fuel ... Well then I would be looking for a reason its there. Clean it out but next oil change look in there again. Start to chart this. See what its doing. Take pics and save them for comparrison too... Rotella is not what works very well in our engines and the reason escapes us...

 

[RLDSL]

Rotella will generally burn off faster, but I seriously doubt that it had anything to do with the sludge residue that you have built up in there, in fact, part of teh reason rotella burs off faster is that it has a rather inappropriatly large percentage of its makeup is its detergent package. The stuff cleans great, it just doesnt resist burning off very well. Sludge comes from oil that goes WAY too long without being changed.
Chances are that CDR is beyond cleaning, Most likely it is original and has never been cleaned. By the manual they are supposed to be cleaned at EVERY oil change, but show me one where that has been done. Unless you are running synthetic, you cannot ignore these things or they get jammed up ( even then you still need to clen them every once in a while ).
Best thing to do is get ahold of your IH dealer and order a new one and seals and replace teh thing

 

[tbrumm]

Does anyone have a part number for new cdr (from either Ford or IH)? Sorry- forgot to check the Parts Bin to see if it was listed there first. Thanks!

 

[Ole BlackBetty]

Got around to removing the CDR today, after removing , when I turned it over, about two tablespoons of clear water dumped out on the floor. It was just water, no antifreeze, my thoughts are either condensation, or ...... about 4 monthes ago, I washed the motor off at the car wash, in preparation to change valve cover gaskets, I guess it is possible the high pressure water could have got past the grommet, This is not a dailey driven truck, so maybe it stayed in there awhile?

 

[riotwarrior]

Rotella will generally burn off faster, but I seriously doubt that it had anything to do with the sludge residue that you have built up in there, in fact, part of teh reason rotella burs off faster is that it has a rather inappropriatly large percentage of its makeup is its detergent package. The stuff cleans great, it just doesnt resist burning off very well. Sludge comes from oil that goes WAY too long without being changed.
Chances are that CDR is beyond cleaning, Most likely it is original and has never been cleaned. By the manual they are supposed to be cleaned at EVERY oil change, but show me one where that has been done. Unless you are running synthetic, you cannot ignore these things or they get jammed up ( even then you still need to clen them every once in a while ).
Best thing to do is get ahold of your IH dealer and order a new one and seals and replace teh thing

So I'm curious Robert, as I do like the idea of hi detergent oil to clean my engine for a run or two.

Thus my question would be....how about a dose of Auto RX / Rotella then run it, flush with Rotella, then another Auto RX/Rotella and rinse then switch to Synthetic if no fluid loss due to bad seals?

I'd like to get on with doing an Auto RX very soon. I hope I can get some shipped soon it would be nice if a guy could get it locally!

Al

 

[icanfixall]

The water in the cdr is most likely from the high pressure cleaning you did. Look closely at the can and you will see a small holes made in one side of the can.. Thats where the water might have gotten in...

 

[Hydro-idi]

Riotwarrier, I am sure RLDSL will be getting back to you soon but I feel that auto-rx works best with conventional oil. The website recommends that you use conventional rotella oil but I actually used supertech 15w-40 and I am pleased with the decrease in oil consumption. I went from burning a quart every 500 miles to burning a quart every 1500 miles with my first treatment of auto-rx. Great product in my opinion. I would recommend that you follow auto-rx instructions and email them if you have any further questions about the product. They have quick responses.

 

[RLDSL]

So I'm curious Robert, as I do like the idea of hi detergent oil to clean my engine for a run or two.

Thus my question would be....how about a dose of Auto RX / Rotella then run it, flush with Rotella, then another Auto RX/Rotella and rinse then switch to Synthetic if no fluid loss due to bad seals?

I'd like to get on with doing an Auto RX very soon. I hope I can get some shipped soon it would be nice if a guy could get it locally!

Al

iironically, the Auto Rx works best when it doesnt have to compete with other cleaners. Chemicals have a habit of performig at their best as designed when they are allowed to work as close to by themselves as they can, this is why they are very insistant to NOT use synthetics when using auto Rx as synthetics are designed for extended service intervals and generally have extensive detergent packages of their own that can sometimes work against what is going on., not to mention when you are running the auto rx you want to try to keep it in the crankcase as long as possible so you really want an oil that isnt going to burn offas fast. most folks have good luck running delo in diesels with the stuff , it will give it a good carrier that will stick around for a while.

 

[bab029]

I find mobil delvac to be a slower consumption alternative to rotella as well, as in my truck would burn a couple quarts of rotella over a 5k interval versus basically NONE using delvac. It is literally astonishing, and I wouldn't believe it if I weren't witnessing it with my own eyes.

 

[icanfixall]

I usually loose just a little more than a quart in 300 miles changes. What concerns me the most is the color of my oil. Its black no matter when I look at it. I run only Delo 400 so its what I live with.

 

[riotwarrior]

iironically, the Auto Rx works best when it doesnt have to compete with other cleaners. Chemicals have a habit of performig at their best as designed when they are allowed to work as close to by themselves as they can, this is why they are very insistant to NOT use synthetics when using auto Rx as synthetics are designed for extended service intervals and generally have extensive detergent packages of their own that can sometimes work against what is going on., not to mention when you are running the auto rx you want to try to keep it in the crankcase as long as possible so you really want an oil that isnt going to burn offas fast. most folks have good luck running delo in diesels with the stuff , it will give it a good carrier that will stick around for a while.

This is why I am asking about Rotella
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...15W-40+Diesel+Motor+Oil,+18.9+L.jsp?locale=en

I can afford this for my next oil change, then afford two filters and perhaps some Auto RX, that would work well I though....

Please understand I'm just looking at not spending lots to flush away as a solvent...and this is pretty inexpensive here.

Al