What coolant and SCA do you run with your aluminum radiator?

TWeatherford

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I just finished browsing through 25 pages of threads I dug up in a search and couldn't find the answer I'm looking for. The other day my radiator gave it up, leaking out one of the tubes and I have one of those Champion aluminum radiators that people seem to like on the way. Now, I'm trying to figure out what coolant to use. I've already considered Evans waterless coolant and simply am not willing to dump $390+shipping into coolant.

I need cavitation protection, which doesn't mix with silicates, which is what is supposed to protect aluminum. So how do I protect my aluminum radiator and cavitation prone cylinder walls at the same time? I've seen talk of Zerex G05, but don't know how that will work with DCA4 additive. Also, I used Fleet Charge before it all leaked out on the road when my radiator blew, but it doesn't seem to be good for aluminum.

Any input appreciated.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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i use Zerex G05 and it is pre-loaded with sca additives so there is no need to add any separate additives. when i got my aluminum rad i wanted to find a coolant that specifically said safe to use with aluminum, the zerex did just that.
 

justinray

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I would honestly consider going waterless while you're there. It is costly, but you will pretty well NEVER have to worry about overheating again.
 

justinray

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True, but with the waterless, you can go to a 0 psi rad cap and release all the stress on the cooling system.
 

Silver Burner

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Why would it cost 390+ bucks for the Evans? I was looking online and can get it for 34 bucks a gallon. Times that by 6-7 gallons and you're barely breaking 200 for the stuff.
 

Kevin 007

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I run NAPA Turbo Power HD Diesel coolant. Its precharged with SCA's, Have not had any issues. Ran it in three trucks including a PSD. I add half a bottle of DCA-4 every year or so.
 

CDX825

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Fleet charge should work just fine! There are other things besides silicates in it to protect aluminum.

You could also go with Final Charge and not have to worry about SCAs ever again.

I'll be honest I'm not a fan of G-05 in a diesel or any application for that matter. Seems like every vehicle Ive worked on that is running G-05 has had major silicate drop out in the overflow tank or degas bottle. Ive even seen low mileage vehicles running G-05 with major silicate dropout. This is the same stuff that caused havoc with the 6.0 liters as well. Ford has stopped using it in all their vehicles if that says anything.
 

franklin2

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Fleet charge should work just fine! There are other things besides silicates in it to protect aluminum.

You could also go with Final Charge and not have to worry about SCAs ever again.

I'll be honest I'm not a fan of G-05 in a diesel or any application for that matter. Seems like every vehicle Ive worked on that is running G-05 has had major silicate drop out in the overflow tank or degas bottle. Ive even seen low mileage vehicles running G-05 with major silicate dropout. This is the same stuff that caused havoc with the 6.0 liters as well. Ford has stopped using it in all their vehicles if that says anything.

How can that be when GO-5 is a low silicate formula? Possibly they did not drain the old coolant out completely before using it?
 

CDX825

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How can that be when GO-5 is a low silicate formula? Possibly they did not drain the old coolant out completely before using it?

All these vehicles were factory filled and all Fords. It is a low silicate but there is still enough to cause issues. It makes a nice mess too that is a pain to clean out. What causes the silicates to come out of suspension is a mystery to me. :dunno
 

RLDSL

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if you have a properly functioning cooling system you would not have to worry about overheating either. just sayin'

Yeah... I used to believe that fairy taile too... until it put me in the poor house getting one of my fancy diesel cars home from upstate NY after a thermostat stuck on me... a new FACTORY one and even just a few more seconds to be able to safely shutdown and the engine would have been OK, but regular antifreeze/coolant simply does not give you that margin of error, and it ended up costing me thousands to rent a uhaul truck and trailer to get it home and then again to completely rebuild the engine and straighten the head.
Right then and there is when I started looking for something better and I just KNEW that there had to be something. and thats when i found Evans.
With the **** poor quality coming out of ALL of the factories when it comes to replacement parts these days, you cant count on relying on a properly maintained system to get you by. You have to take control and go one better if you want to stand a chance of keeping your vehicles around for the long term.

I've just about lost track of how many times Evans has saved my backside already and that is AFTER having my vehicles with all top quality parts on an overkill service schedule

Only way I would even consider running any other swill is if I had a new vehicle that the warranty required it and THEY were paying all the repair bills, but that's sure as heck not likely to happen :rotflmao
 

Agnem

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Fleet Charge is available at Tractor Supply as well as other places. It is pink, and is essentially green antifreeze with DCA-2 added. It's probably the most compatable pre-charged coolant out there. Stay away from extended life coolants with organic acid technology. I run it in 3 trucks that all have allumiinum rads from Performance Radiator.
 

SLC97SR5

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I use regular, NAPA green coolant with distilled water and FW16 sca.
 
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Fleet Charge is available at Tractor Supply as well as other places. It is pink, and is essentially green antifreeze with DCA-2 added. It's probably the most compatable pre-charged coolant out there. Stay away from extended life coolants with organic acid technology. I run it in 3 trucks that all have allumiinum rads from Performance Radiator.



Quick bump. Just to be clear, this coolant:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0496_-1_-1&pt=N0496&ppt=C0059

Is 100% A-OK for aluminum radiators, with nothing added other than to mix 50/50 with distilled water?

Sorry to bump an old thread, but it's looking like my radiator has sprung a leak and paying $400 for a OEM-like unit versus $250 for an aluminum job seems like a no-brainer if I do it right.

Mike
 

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