Original early copper brass radiators vs aluminum

BeastMaster

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Be prepared to replace if you see mineral deposits.

1994 E350 IDI. Mine had tiny leak when I bought van 10 years ago. Took it to radiator shop, copper core was severely work hardened. Seemed internal buildup of scale was the only thing holding it together.

Descaled it only to have it leak like a sieve. Ended up recoring it.

It was quite easy to make another leak with a small screwdriver. A fingernail may have been sufficient.

I guess the old one went back to the smelter along with ore.

It's been 10 years now. I see new corrosion internally ( solder bloom ? ) and have been investigating if another flush may be called for before it plugs - and what chemical is "safest". Strong enough to make the corrosion material water-soluble, but leave the seals alone.

For me, I believe a Formic Acid based descaler is best. I listed other candidates above in case anyone else cares to confirm or warn me of my error. I haven't met anyone who can explain to me any chemistry backing their advice so I have been falling back to what I know of Chemistry, along with ChatGPT queries.

The Formic is not cheap, but it's sold on Amazon, and I note it's used in descaling of industrial heat exchangers.

I'll chemical descale first, but if I open up a bunch of leaks oh, well it was gone anyway. Formic is not a biohazard, but I may have to be careful if it dissolved heavy metals.
 

jibronee

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Working at a mustang/falcon shop in the 80s/90's, we stopped selling import radiators (@$30 cheaper). Not because of the quality, but because they had smaller diameter tubes than the usa built radiators. The smaller tubes would clog up way quick because the customer didn't power flush the engine/heater core before installing the smaller tube radiator. Because of this, we started carrying Gano filters; which are installed in the upper radiator hose. I have this filter in every ford I own and have never had a cooling problem with radiators plugging and becoming less efficient. When initially installing a Gano filter, check/clean all the junk out of it every few hundred or thousand miles or so.
 

KansasIDI

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When I bought my 91, it had the original brass. Partially clogged and leaky

I replaced it with a plastic tank aluminum core unit from Napa

After installing an intercooler, and having a failing thermostat, I blew up the upper tank on that radiator. Still under warranty.

Water pump failed, radiator exploded again

Had other episodes of exploding radiators

Bought a Mishimoto all aluminum, but the walls of the cores were super thin and it also didn’t last. My understanding is that Mishimoto can be hit or miss.

I use all the plastic and aluminum radiators that I have gone through to hold up paper targets for shooting practice.


That truck is now equipped with a new brass unit, runs cooler and plenty durable upwards of a year now
 

Dirtleg

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When I bought my 91, it had the original brass. Partially clogged and leaky

I replaced it with a plastic tank aluminum core unit from Napa

After installing an intercooler, and having a failing thermostat, I blew up the upper tank on that radiator. Still under warranty.

Water pump failed, radiator exploded again

Had other episodes of exploding radiators

Bought a Mishimoto all aluminum, but the walls of the cores were super thin and it also didn’t last. My understanding is that Mishimoto can be hit or miss.

I use all the plastic and aluminum radiators that I have gone through to hold up paper targets for shooting practice.


That truck is now equipped with a new brass unit, runs cooler and plenty durable upwards of a year now
Can you share where you got it? Internet searches are turning up nothing for me.

Edit. Radiator Express has it for $1039. As usual you can't find the answer until you've asked the question.
 
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catbird7

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Dirtleg, I noticed you're in VA, not certain if you're interested in travelling a little however here's a shop located here in PA that I used for several brass re-core rads. "Cross Radiator & Air Conditioning". Located in Milesburg PA. Phone: 814-355-4109. Old timer, does this work in a garage attached to his home. Excellent work!
 

Dirtleg

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Dirtleg, I noticed you're in VA, not certain if you're interested in travelling a little however here's a shop located here in PA that I used for several brass re-core rads. "Cross Radiator & Air Conditioning". Located in Milesburg PA. Phone: 814-355-4109. Old timer, does this work in a garage attached to his home. Excellent work!
Thank you for that. It is a bit far, 330 miles, but it may be an option. I am going to talk with my local heavy equipment dealer first, and see if there are any local options I am unaware of. If I can't find anything local I will give him a call.

Also. years ago (2017-18) I used to have to work in Milesburg at Niagara Bottling. Then a few years after that I worked a fair amount in Lock Haven.
 

catbird7

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Niagara Bottling {I think} used to be Aquapenn Water. I worked on the original construction of that building {huge building}, early 1990's.
 
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