Newbie intro and radiator questions

[Ryan Cowper]

@tbrumm
Brass pipe plug. Now we're talking - that's exactly what I'll do. Sounds like I made a good choice in trying to avoid aluminum and It'll save me some money to put towards the next project. Thanks for looking out.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Post a pic of your original radiator, particularly where the failed tank is. I'm interested to see what that tank split looks like. $700 really isn't that bad if the tank needs replacing, but if it just separated, you might find somebody who'll try to solder it up for a lot less.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

I was just browsing around YouTube looking through videos about flushing oil out of a radiator. I came across this video - A guy running dishwasher detergent through his diesel cooling system and driving it around. Normally, I'd run if I saw something unconventional like this, but I thought I'd toss it out there. The guy seems to know his way around the truck and comments on this video are fairly positive.

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Now, if putting dish washing detergent into the cooling system is safe, than this seems like it'd do a great job cleaning my oily new/old radiator. I don't know the maintenance history of my new truck, so I was planning to flush just about everything that can be flushed anyhow. Freaks me out the way people in the forums are so darn particular about the cooing system in these trucks. Normally, I wouldn't care so much, however, the way people talk makes me feel like the cylinder wall is made out of a sheet construction paper.

Prolly going to get a few head ***** for thinking about turning my truck into the worlds most powerful dish washing machine.

The only reason I'm considering it is because this oily old radiator from the autoyard is going to heat up once I install it and then it'll leech oil sludge into my freshly flushed system. I'm definitely going to fill it with dawn and shake it up, rinse and repeat before the install.

What happens when a bit of oil sludge gets into the cooling system?

Is it safe to wash a radiator with tap water if I flush with distilled afterwards?

And Is it safe to flush a cooling system with tap water if I do a final flush with distilled?

 

[Macrobb]

Now, if putting dish washing detergent into an engine is safe than this seems like it'd do a great job cleaning my oily new/old radiator and since I'm going to flush my coolant system anyhow, I figure it couldn't hurt to ask around. Freaks me out for sure.

Should be fine. They sell oil cleaner rad flush stuff that... is some sort of soapy stuff and acts the same way.

Basically the only reason I'm even asking is because I'm concerned this oily old radiator is going to heat up once I install it and then it'll leech oil sludge into my system. I'm definitely going to fill it with dawn and shake it up, rinse and repeat before the install. Worst case scenario? Prolly going to get a few head ***** even considering doing something like this this to my truck. HAHA

Go for it. Should be fine. Not going to hurt anything.

What happens when a bit of oil sludge gets into the cooling system in our 7.3's?

I'd be concerned about large clumps plugging either the oil cooler tubes, the radiator cap, or the thermostat. That being said, oil should migrate upwards and end up in the top of the radiator.

Is it safe to wash a radiator with tap water if I flush with distilled afterwards?

And Is it safe to flush a cooling system with tap water if I do a final flush with distilled?

Yes, yes, and honestly, I'm not convinced you have to flush with distilled. Obviously it depends on the quality of your tap water, but my understanding is that coolant has additives in it to deal with any chlorine or other chemicals in tap water.
I'm lazy and just flush with tap water, drain as much as I can out, then just add concentrate until full. Gets me close to 50%. If I was under 50%, I'd fill the overflow with pure coolant and let heat-cycles take it into the engine.

I've never had any trouble with this.

Also, as far as coolant goes, do yourself a favor and buy Zerex G-05 or Zerex HD ELC coolant. Both of these are long-life coolants with good anti-cavitation properties, and do not need SCAs to do their job. No checking with test strips, no worries. Just fill and go.

 

[Comptech]

Citric acid from the canning Dept at Wally world.it will make that radiater look brand-new inside in one day for about $1.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Just make sure that the extra stub is actually threaded into the radiator before you try to remove it. Also. remember that these are heavy radiators and can be tricky to replace by your self. It may be easier to have someone help you with this. The thing that gets me about this radiator is that this extra stub is next to the petcock, which is on the driver's side of every factory radiator that I've seen. The one for the E4OD is on the passenger's side. It's also 5/8". Isn't tha one for the E4OD smaller than 1/2"? I don't believe that I've seen a radiator like this one before.

 

[david85]

$80 for one of our radiators is a steal. Even if you don't need it, that is a very cheap option for a spare. I already jumped at the chance to buy a much more expensive one from craigslist last year.

The split at the top is very common. I fixed mine years ago but the patch didn't hold for more than a few weeks before leaking again. Got it recored for $600CAD, I think. I probably wouldn't be able to get that price again today. Now it started leaking again, and I patched it again. We'll see how well it holds but if it really does fail on me, I'll swap in the used one and do a full upper tank reseal on the other one.

I followed the aluminum radiator thread and I won't be using one if I can help it.

 

[ttman4]

Several good suggestions before me. ^^^^

I have used Palmolive dish soap recently when I got oil in my system from a bad oilcooler rebuild. I've also used powdered dish soap in the past on a couple of semi Cat & Cummings engines. Honestly I like the powdered dish soap better, Cascade or WalleyWorld, etc because it's not so soapy & bubbly but cuts oil & grease.
I flush with water several times afterwards, driving round for 2-3 days, then do my coolant mix.

Do like Macrobb said......

BTW, buy that $80 radiator & send it to me.....I'll pay the postage, OK?

 

[Ryan Cowper]

I'm going to clean the crap out of the autoyard radiator tomorrow. I'll also be getting some copper end caps at the hardware store to plug the extra stub. After that, I should get around to the swap mid week. I'll be sure to post pictures of both radiators side by side so folks can see the differences. Thanks a bunch everyone, I'm impressed how many people have taken time to help out.

@ttman4 That's a tempting offer, if you would've caught me in about 2 hours I probably would've gone for it But seriously, if I didn't need it in my rig I'd be happy to help

 

[chris142]

Your truck looks just like mine. Dont worry about the trans cooler in the other radiator. Nothing will leak out of them if you dont plug them. It pumps atf to the rad,not take coolant back to the trans like so many people assume.

Anytime you put heat(torch to repair) to a radiator this old there is a chance of it dying. $700 is cheap for a recore. I wonder where they are buying the core from? My cost on a good core is about $700.

Throw in some profit,solder etc and that's a $1200 recore here.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

$700 is cheap for a recore. I wonder where they are buying the core from? My cost on a good core is about $700.

Throw in some profit,solder etc and that's a $1200 recore here.

This is why, a few years back, when a guy offered me a radiator for $100, I walked into the house and grabbed the cash while he brought it over.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

Autoyard radiator passed the pressure test! I took it up to around 12 PSI and let it sit for 5 minutes. Should I go higher? I'll be picking up a Motorcraft thermostat... Any experiences with aftermarket hoses? Now taking recommendations. Local stores have Master Pro, Gates, Napa, and Dayco. Didn't call the dealership, I'll wait and see what you folks have to say.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I think stock IDI rad is 13lbs?

And I like Gates stuff these days

 

[Golden Helmet]

Autoyard radiator passed the pressure test! I took it up to around 12 PSI and let it sit for 5 minutes. Should I go higher? I'll be picking up a Motorcraft thermostat... Any experiences with aftermarket hoses? Now taking recommendations. Local stores have Master Pro, Gates, Napa, and Dayco. Didn't call the dealership, I'll wait and see what you folks have to say.

I've had good luck with Gates. Just make ABSOLUTELY SURE that you do NOT let the parts counter guy give you a lower rad hose that doesn't have a spring or rubber flap in it. If the lower hose doesn't have that, the hose will collapse the first time you fire it up and your engine will overheat fast.

 

[Ryan Cowper]

NOT let the parts counter guy give you a lower rad hose that doesn't have a spring or rubber flap in it

The first time I squeezed the lower hose I thought there was a whole bunch of crap that settled in it. It took me a second to realize that it was a spring. Thats +2 for Gates. Thanks for the tip.