Voltage regulator?
- Thread starter Selahdoor
- Start date
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
As for a good DVOM, I have one of these:
Uni-T B4Q094 UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp M W Capacitance Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-X0zDb3KRBDDX
Turns out it was much cheaper in 2016 when I got mine but it's still worth $52. Over 400 reviews of nearly 5 stars!
It's got a small clamp on ammeter up to 199A, plus all the normal DC goodies and does AC too, has an optional audio beep for continuity which I love since I don't have to look at the meter and wait for it to settle out.
Only thing I don't like is that it defaults to AC for everything voltage so you have to press a button to switch to DC. But once you use it a bunch you get used to that.
I'm no EE by a long shot, just a guy that does all his own vehicle and now household electrical.
Uni-T B4Q094 UT210E True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp M W Capacitance Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-X0zDb3KRBDDX
Turns out it was much cheaper in 2016 when I got mine but it's still worth $52. Over 400 reviews of nearly 5 stars!
It's got a small clamp on ammeter up to 199A, plus all the normal DC goodies and does AC too, has an optional audio beep for continuity which I love since I don't have to look at the meter and wait for it to settle out.
Only thing I don't like is that it defaults to AC for everything voltage so you have to press a button to switch to DC. But once you use it a bunch you get used to that.
I'm no EE by a long shot, just a guy that does all his own vehicle and now household electrical.
When you borrowed the DVM, did you run it side by side with your "bad" meter? You're introducing a lot of variables into this system. Your bad meter also compared to your dash gauge and you heard your batteries boiling. Which further suggests it was accurately reporting an over voltage.
I'd find a good battery (probably the Camry), take the surface charge off it and see if your "bad" meter isn't reading around 12.6 volts and run it side by side with the borrowed meter before you throw that meter out.
As far as the stray voltage your seeing, I'd be more interested in looking at amp draw. Most DVMs have an amp function. Disconnect both negative cables. Set the DVM to amps. Connect the DVM between the cable and the battery. That will tell you your parasitic load and you can measure much lower than a test light.
I'd find a good battery (probably the Camry), take the surface charge off it and see if your "bad" meter isn't reading around 12.6 volts and run it side by side with the borrowed meter before you throw that meter out.
As far as the stray voltage your seeing, I'd be more interested in looking at amp draw. Most DVMs have an amp function. Disconnect both negative cables. Set the DVM to amps. Connect the DVM between the cable and the battery. That will tell you your parasitic load and you can measure much lower than a test light.
BeastMaster
Full Access Member
Masters degree in Business Administration.
Technical people are often made subordinate to them. They often have little to no technical training or experience. But they excel in cutting costs and the psychology of "leadership".
Also known as "bean counters".
It takes everything out of me to deal with them.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
When I look at the big picture, I tend to think that you've solved the problem. You had an issue that caused your batteries to discharge. You had a DVOM that wasn't reading properly to try to diagnose the issue. You're pretty sure that your alternator is now working correctly. Your new batteries were low on charge. You started your truck with jumper cables on a set of batteries that weren't fully charged and saw some overcharge for a short time. You're all but certain that the batteries that were in this truck are no good. Yes, they were boiling , but this can happen when you try to charge up bad batteries because you're trying to force a charge into them while they're resisting taking that charge which creates heat. Taking all of that into consideration, I'd say that you have no more problem except having to buy two new batteries. Yes. Keep an eye on this for a while to be sure.
@Selahdoor
I have a suggestion for a battery cut-off. Something like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-cutoff-switch-63425.html
I used this exact switch on my 89 IDI. On mine, the ignition actuator broke and the ignition was stuck in the “run” position. Good news was everything still would work, but you couldn’t start and stop with the key. I put a toggle switch in to interrupt the signal to the FSS. I basically made a long jumper that plugged in to the harness side plug for the FSS, ran into the cab to a toggle, and back out and plugged into the FSS. This would allow me to control the pump from the drivers seat. I put a momentary push button in that supplied the 12 volt signal to the small post on the starter solenoid, so I could control the starter from the drivers seat.
Now, where this switch came into play. I put a large jumper from the battery to this switch, then ran the existing power jumper than did run straight from the passenger side battery to the starter solenoid, to the other side of this switch. This cut all power to the truck. The only thing that was still hot is the large lead to the starter, which is always hot anyway. This is how I would de-power the truck, similar to the off position on the key switch. I put it in a hidden, but accessible location. I would walk up to the truck, insert the red “key” and turn the power on. This would power up the truck, and start the glow plug cycle (normally triggered by key-on power from turning the key to the run position), walk around and get in the truck while the plugs were running. Get in, flip the toggle switch to turn the IP on, and when the WTS light would go out, push the button and start the truck. When I wanted to shut everything down, I would flip the toggle and shut the IP off, and go turn the disconnect switch off, and take the red key. Now the truck is shut down, similar to shutting off the key. The only difference is now, the power is shut off at the starter solenoid where everything is distributed, instead the ignition switch under the dash. The entire truck is completely dead (except anything connected directly to the battery). I actually liked the idea, had less of a chance of an electrical fire when parked. Plus, it was a bit more theft resistant. I joked that if someone could figure out all the steps to get it started, they could have it.
. This switch was large enough to carry the current for the glow plugs and the rest of the truck (not starter current, that goes through the big wire). We had it set up this way for months, and it was driven most days.
I have an older Fluke 79 meter I use. I bought it when I was at ITT in the early 90’s. It wasn’t cheap (I think it was $150+ in 1992 even with a student group buy discount). I has served me very well, and I’m extremely protective of it.... lol, it has a place on the shelf next to my bed with VERY strict instructions that fingers get broken if it’s touched.... lol... I would actually like to get a less expensive “garage meter” so I don’t have to use my Fluke in the garage.
I do agree to having one with a continuity beeper. It nice when chasing a problem, and you can just move along and listen, rather than watch for Zero-ish Ohms. I also want to get an “Amp Clamp”. They are also nice for troubleshooting. I’ve borrowed one for troubleshooting a sneak circuit, and it makes for fairly quick work.
This is the meter I have:
This is an “amp clamp” (inductive amp meter):
Mine is an older design meter, they have made the cases a bit larger and rounder on the new ones.
I have a suggestion for a battery cut-off. Something like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-cutoff-switch-63425.html
I used this exact switch on my 89 IDI. On mine, the ignition actuator broke and the ignition was stuck in the “run” position. Good news was everything still would work, but you couldn’t start and stop with the key. I put a toggle switch in to interrupt the signal to the FSS. I basically made a long jumper that plugged in to the harness side plug for the FSS, ran into the cab to a toggle, and back out and plugged into the FSS. This would allow me to control the pump from the drivers seat. I put a momentary push button in that supplied the 12 volt signal to the small post on the starter solenoid, so I could control the starter from the drivers seat.
Now, where this switch came into play. I put a large jumper from the battery to this switch, then ran the existing power jumper than did run straight from the passenger side battery to the starter solenoid, to the other side of this switch. This cut all power to the truck. The only thing that was still hot is the large lead to the starter, which is always hot anyway. This is how I would de-power the truck, similar to the off position on the key switch. I put it in a hidden, but accessible location. I would walk up to the truck, insert the red “key” and turn the power on. This would power up the truck, and start the glow plug cycle (normally triggered by key-on power from turning the key to the run position), walk around and get in the truck while the plugs were running. Get in, flip the toggle switch to turn the IP on, and when the WTS light would go out, push the button and start the truck. When I wanted to shut everything down, I would flip the toggle and shut the IP off, and go turn the disconnect switch off, and take the red key. Now the truck is shut down, similar to shutting off the key. The only difference is now, the power is shut off at the starter solenoid where everything is distributed, instead the ignition switch under the dash. The entire truck is completely dead (except anything connected directly to the battery). I actually liked the idea, had less of a chance of an electrical fire when parked. Plus, it was a bit more theft resistant. I joked that if someone could figure out all the steps to get it started, they could have it.
. This switch was large enough to carry the current for the glow plugs and the rest of the truck (not starter current, that goes through the big wire). We had it set up this way for months, and it was driven most days.I have an older Fluke 79 meter I use. I bought it when I was at ITT in the early 90’s. It wasn’t cheap (I think it was $150+ in 1992 even with a student group buy discount). I has served me very well, and I’m extremely protective of it.... lol, it has a place on the shelf next to my bed with VERY strict instructions that fingers get broken if it’s touched.... lol... I would actually like to get a less expensive “garage meter” so I don’t have to use my Fluke in the garage.
I do agree to having one with a continuity beeper. It nice when chasing a problem, and you can just move along and listen, rather than watch for Zero-ish Ohms. I also want to get an “Amp Clamp”. They are also nice for troubleshooting. I’ve borrowed one for troubleshooting a sneak circuit, and it makes for fairly quick work.
This is the meter I have:
You must be registered for see images attach
This is an “amp clamp” (inductive amp meter):
You must be registered for see images attach
Mine is an older design meter, they have made the cases a bit larger and rounder on the new ones.
You make a very good point. It had also occurred to me. Now I will be sure to do it.
What I have borrowed is a 200 dollar meter. (Well, today, it would be closer to 1000. This was bought when my friend was just out of the military, and in college. 200 then, is about a thousand today.)
I plan on doing exactly as you said. Test everything, using his meter. And both of mine. Plus a third, if I can find it. It is yet another harbor freight meter, but it has the amp clamp. I want to test everything I have already tested. Then test some known goods, like the camry battery.
If 3 other meters all agree, and his doesn't... Only two of those are HF meters. So I would have to wonder. But my gut tells me his is right. And my analog is right. (It's just very hard for me to read the gauge. And it has completely agreed with his so far.)
Thank you bro! Looks like you have the bases covered. You are correct. That is exactly the conclusion I have come to, and why.
Being OCD about this kind of stuff, and being worried about those 300 dollars, (apiece) batteries... I will not, of course just be able to drop this. I'll be watching like a hawk. And I'll go on looking for and solving problems with the circuits.
I have solved other circuit problems in the meantime. I think that will mostly solve the parasitic drain problem. So it's already in better shape. And I will disconnect the batteries when the truck is going to be parked for a while, to deal with whatever drain is left. Until I get the remaining problem circuits solved.
@Selahdoor
I have a suggestion for a battery cut-off. Something like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-cutoff-switch-63425.html
I used this exact switch on my 89 IDI. On mine, the ignition actuator broke and the ignition was stuck in the “run” position. Good news was everything still would work, but you couldn’t start and stop with the key. I put a toggle switch in to interrupt the signal to the FSS. I basically made a long jumper that plugged in to the harness side plug for the FSS, ran into the cab to a toggle, and back out and plugged into the FSS. This would allow me to control the pump from the drivers seat. I put a momentary push button in that supplied the 12 volt signal to the small post on the starter solenoid, so I could control the starter from the drivers seat.
Now, where this switch came into play. I put a large jumper from the battery to this switch, then ran the existing power jumper than did run straight from the passenger side battery to the starter solenoid, to the other side of this switch. This cut all power to the truck. The only thing that was still hot is the large lead to the starter, which is always hot anyway. This is how I would de-power the truck, similar to the off position on the key switch. I put it in a hidden, but accessible location. I would walk up to the truck, insert the red “key” and turn the power on. This would power up the truck, and start the glow plug cycle (normally triggered by key-on power from turning the key to the run position), walk around and get in the truck while the plugs were running. Get in, flip the toggle switch to turn the IP on, and when the WTS light would go out, push the button and start the truck. When I wanted to shut everything down, I would flip the toggle and shut the IP off, and go turn the disconnect switch off, and take the red key. Now the truck is shut down, similar to shutting off the key. The only difference is now, the power is shut off at the starter solenoid where everything is distributed, instead the ignition switch under the dash. The entire truck is completely dead (except anything connected directly to the battery). I actually liked the idea, had less of a chance of an electrical fire when parked. Plus, it was a bit more theft resistant. I joked that if someone could figure out all the steps to get it started, they could have it.
I have an older Fluke 79 meter I use. I bought it when I was at ITT in the early 90’s. It wasn’t cheap (I think it was $150+ in 1992 even with a student group buy discount). I has served me very well, and I’m extremely protective of it.... lol, it has a place on the shelf next to my bed with VERY strict instructions that fingers get broken if it’s touched.... lol... I would actually like to get a less expensive “garage meter” so I don’t have to use my Fluke in the garage.
I do agree to having one with a continuity beeper. It nice when chasing a problem, and you can just move along and listen, rather than watch for Zero-ish Ohms. I also want to get an “Amp Clamp”. They are also nice for troubleshooting. I’ve borrowed one for troubleshooting a sneak circuit, and it makes for fairly quick work.
This is the meter I have:
You must be registered for see images attach
This is an “amp clamp” (inductive amp meter):
You must be registered for see images attach
Mine is an older design meter, they have made the cases a bit larger and rounder on the new ones.
Very thorough! Thank you.
I am impressed with that solution! I guess mostly because it sounds like exactly the sort of solution I would come up with.
Think outside the box. Keep people guessing! Your solution was elegant in it's design, even if a little bit Rube Goldberg in it's execution. (As mine usually are. But like you, I have my reasons.
) And not much of that, either. You hit the bases of what was needed, and you applied your solution in a solid working and safe manner.
Those switches are probably a good idea. What I would switch is the negative terminals of both batteries. But I'll go with either just taking the terminals off, or using the kind that you twist the knob on... For now.
Reason being, if I have to pop the hood to do the chore... This gives me an opportunity to be "eyes-on" with the batteries every time. For now, that is fairly important to do.
As I said above, I am going to be doing all the testing, all over again, with every meter I can come up with. Doing comparisons with all the meters, to see which give the most consistent readings. I am kind of hoping to find the clamp type one I have. (Also does the multimeter readings.) If it is consistent enough, I'll keep it around.
Here's the thing about the cheap, lying, cheating, deceitful, politician of the group... (The red multimeter from HF)...I noticed while using it that it would sometimes give really wild readings. For a while it would seem to be up to 4 volts off. Consistently so. Sometimes you'd turn it on, and it would be up to 4 volts, (varied in both cases, but could be up to 4 volts.) positive or negative, just sitting there! Sometimes you'd be in the middle of something, and suddenly start getting different readings for no good reason. Nothing had changed. So, I was seeing all this, but having nothing to really compare it to, I couldn't be sure whether it was me or the meter...
My gut is telling me this meter, (at least this particular meter, not ALL HF meters), is a politician. How do you tell a politician is lying? Their lips are moving. How do you tell this meter is lying? You see numbers on the screen.
If I don't find an acceptable digital meter in my 'collection', I'll be looking for a good one. And so far I am also leaning toward a fluke. Also liking that "Uni-T", that Josh showed, though. I don't have to have accuracy down into the hundred thousandths of an amp, and such stuff. Just a quick basic, is it 12 volts, or 12.7, or whatever.
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
And then complain because it's late and doesn't work right!
pafixitman
Registered User
I also recommend the Fluke. Not sure of model (currently in the tool bag at a job) but looks like Scott's. Asked for it as a b-day present in 1986. (Knowing my dad it was probably expensed through Westinghouse at that time) I am not as protective of it as he is either. It has fallen off ladders multiple times and keeps going. Think of it as a one and done purchase.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Mine is also a Fluke. I don't know the model off the top of my head. I don't know what I cost new because I acquired it during an exchange of unvoluntary transactions between myself and another guy. And I'll just leave it at that!
Well, mine is now a fluke, as well.
Friend of mine gave me these today...
That wire stripper is worth it's weight in gold when you have a wire way up under the dash that you can ONLY reach with one hand...
Friend of mine gave me these today...
You must be registered for see images attach
That wire stripper is worth it's weight in gold when you have a wire way up under the dash that you can ONLY reach with one hand...
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
WOW! You've got some friend! Nice upgrade!
