Valve starting to stick

[Mike_42]

Hey all, I know a decent bit about these motors but nothing about the valve train. I started to notice about 2 months ago the truck would make a wierd thump/woosh sound at first start, only once. It has only done it on cold starts. Well its been progressively getting worse and today it actually stuck for a second, about 3 times. Thats when I knew it was definetly a valve.

I dont know if its sticking open, or closed or intake or exhaust, any way to tell?

Before I pull the covers what do I need to know and look for when pulling? What gaskets and where? Torque settings?

Also is there any way to run some oil additive to clean if its not something I can fix with the covers off?

Thanks

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The first thing that came to mind when I read this that it sounds like a lifter may be bleeding down. When this happens, the oil seeps out of it when the engine's not running. Then after start up, it takes a few seconds for the oil pump to repressurize it so that it opens the valve again. You could try adding a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to your oil. That may help.

 

[Mike_42]

The first thing that came to mind when I read this that it sounds like a lifter may be bleeding down. When this happens, the oil seeps out of it when the engine's not running. Then after start up, it takes a few seconds for the oil pump to repressurize it so that it opens the valve again. You could try adding a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to your oil. That may help.

Why would the lifter bleed down like that?

 

[Mike_42]

It sucks too because I just changed my oil 3 days ago... I always ran delo 400 le and my previos oil was delo 400 sde, I got it not paying attention snd used, you think that could have caused it? Now im back to delo 400 le.

 

[Thewespaul]

Or a stuck lifter, I can almost guarantee that a healthy dose of marvel mystery oil will fix it.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Why would the lifter bleed down like that?

I'm not sure what makes this happen. I just know that it can.

 

[Mike_42]

Or a stuck lifter, I can almost guarantee that a healthy dose of marvel mystery oil will fix it.

Can I keep the oil or does it require an oil change? Also how much do I need for how much oil?

 

[Thewespaul]

It’s a sign that your oil needs to be changed more often, so I would go ahead and change it if it’s close

 

[Mike_42]

It’s a sign that your oil needs to be changed more often, so I would go ahead and change it if it’s close

I always change at 5,000k on the mark. Delo 400 LE everytime except my last change, used the delo 400 sde, and now back on delo 400 le. Just changed it 3 days ago.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I would drain a couple quarts out and add 2 qts of marvel mystery oil, and run it until your due for the next oil change. Bet that’ll get rid of your problem. I’ve had good luck with the stuff.

 

[Macrobb]

Change your oil at 2500miles. These are dirty engines, lots of crud. I can attest to cruddy lifters and MMO(2 quarts per fill) making a huge difference, though it takes a few hours of running to clean.

You can use cheap 15w40(mobil delvac has some good rebates), just change it frequently. It gets cruddy enough after 2500 miles, especially with a worn engine.

 

[Mike_42]

Change your oil at 2500miles. These are dirty engines, lots of crud. I can attest to cruddy lifters and MMO(2 quarts per fill) making a huge difference, though it takes a few hours of running to clean.

You can use cheap 15w40(mobil delvac has some good rebates), just change it frequently. It gets cruddy enough after 2500 miles, especially with a worn engine.

So do you use MMO every oil change? Just pour in after change and run all the way through the change? Looks like my walmart has some, I'll grab it.

 

[Macrobb]

So do you use MMO every oil change? Just pour in after change and run all the way through the change? Looks like my walmart has some, I'll grab it.

Sure, lets go with that.
I never thought it would matter, until I picked up this $350 turbo IDI motor. It ran fine on the stand, but once I put it in the truck, it had a *bad* knock. Didn't change at all with load(unlike a rod knock) and was worse at idle. Someone suggested MMO. I put in one quart at first(truck was already full anyway... I just poured it in). it helped a little, but not too much. Added a second quart a few days later, once the oil level had gone down to the full mark again. Ran it. It's been 500 miles, and it's a *lot* better. It went from "Uh... is this engine going to blow up in 100 miles?" to "Ticks at idle, smooth at cruising RPM".
Also, it burned/used the oil/MMO right down to the 'full' mark on the dipstick really quickly... and it stayed right there. Checked it again today... right at the full mark.

Now, I don't recommend just over-filling the engine to add it like I did, but that's what I did. Now, I'm going to throw some in all my rigs when I change the oil and go from there... It's actually pretty cheap at wal-mart($3.88/quart), close to the same price as engine oil.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I run mmo at every oil change with all my vehicles. One of those things where I saw that it worked with my Jeep, so I continue to use it in all my vehicles, dirt bikes & small engines.

 

[Joseph Davis]

I use Gunk M3712 Valve Medic w/Sludge Guard. This stuff cleans the lifter and allows the oil into the lifters by dissolving the carbon build up in the lifters and Valves. I live in California and I have to order it by the case because California made it illegal to sell in California. Gunk Valve Medic works within ten minutes if its not a mechanical failure. Good stuff been using it for over 30 years. I tried to use Marvel Mystery oil but only seen it work on valves and lifters rarely. Good Luck.