Trasnfer cases

[IDIBRONCO]

Both my F250 and my Bronco have Borg-Warner 13-45 transfer cases. I've talked to a transmission shop and I know from experience that they have problems with the speedometer gears going bad. Of course mine are both bad. They are getting pretty hard to find and only going up in price. I'm getting ready to drop the four speed out of my truck and install a zf5. I have a Borg-Warner 13-56 on hand. Would it be worth it to swap the 13-56 in place of my 13-45? I know the differences like slip yoke vs fixed yoke and one piece vs two piece driveshafts. I'm just wanting to know if this is a better transfer case and doesn't have speedometer gear issues. Replacing the gears every two or three years is a big PITA!

 

[kuskoal]

Everything I have researched about these drivelines just leads to the internal pump mod, thats it. Seems pretty stout and used in EVERYTHING from broncos to f-350's as you already know.. Lose a little 4wd low though.

As far as the slip vs fixed, definitely a pita. You need to swap out the output shafts for the correct spline count. Slip yoke should be 31 and fixed is 32 I want flanged yokes on my rig.

 

[Kevin 007]

I have had better luck with the 1345 (knock on wood) and would prefer them over the 1356 just for that reason. And they seem to shift smoother then the 1356 especialy into 4Lo

 

[NO_SPRK]

What!? Bronco fixed yoke cases are different spline inputs?

I have had better luck with the 1345 (knock on wood) and would prefer them over the 1356 just for that reason. And they seem to shift smoother then the 1356 especialy into 4Lo

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[kuskoal]

Output shafts*

The input shafts are ALL the same, every ford up until the super duties.

The bw1356 front yoke is all the same. 1330 yoke. The rear yoke, you need to cannibalize 2 cases if you wanna do like a pto/fixed yoke case. Like me!

Ultimately get a pto case with two flanges. Then 1410 driveshafts.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

What exactly is the internal pump mod? Where do I find parts?

 

[dunk]

1410 yokes on a 1356? Can the case take the load you'd have to require 1410 joints? I've never had problems breaking front shafts or joints, always rear joints or transfer cases but I've always run 208 cases. I'd buy them for about $20 whenever I see them cheap and just swap whenever they break. My current truck has a 208 case and once it gets lifted/tires/lockers I want to change that. I have a fixed yoke 1356 and a married 205 so I have options when the time comes. 1356 would be a bolt in swap with minor modification to the shifter linkage. 205 is more work but I think may be the better way to go.

 

[franklin2]

I like the slip yoke on my 1356 so far. One less maintenance item with that external yoke that needs greased all the time. If you could convert your driveline to a slip yoke system I think it would be a plus. Then you would only have to worry about the external front slip yoke.

 

[kuskoal]

The pump mod fixed the only real flaw with the bw1356. The pump is a georotor design just like an automatic transmission. The anchor for said pump, is a tab that rides along the case that wears the case away! When the case is worn away and the tab can spin freely, no fluid gets pumped. The fix is to take a rod or a bolt or something and extend the contact patch so it never will wear out.

Once you do a flange-type yoke setup the driveshaft holds the u-joints. It connects to the case/axle with 4 bolts and a nice round flange. The flange-type holds u-joints more evenly, increasing life and wear while making a very easy driveshaft install. The 1410 stuff is just a nice perk, but very expensive on the front double cardan(CV) yoke compared to the 1330/1350 joints.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Thanks, kuskoal. I'll have to look into that.