Trailered home a 1989 F350 dump truck that looks great on the outside, but the 7.3 IDI is something else

Bart F-350

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I would look if that 4x4 has the door sill sticker still readable, for a dually 10.25 with factory locker, you need to look for the W5 axle code on the sticker.
I don't know if your terrain is soil or gravel? If so, why not use snow chains?
If you really want a 4x4, maybe ( if not burnt?) transfer all good things from your dumper to that 4x4 frame?

For the engine, if nobody needs it for a core, please don't scrap it, maybe you can sell it to someone who is prepared to sleeve it when he's building a block? (these blocks seem to become rare.)
 

crazydane

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So I put the 7.3 back together yesterday until I decide what to do with it:

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I cleaned up the injectors a little before screwing them back in. It contained 3 different kinds. So I guess they had been replaced individually over the years.

I then went to look at the burned up F250 with the 7.3 in it.

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Sticker:

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Engine:

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So long block is probably ok, but everything else looks to be a total waste. I checked the core support, but the lower corners are rusted out just like mine, so no added value there. Ditto on the battery trays.
 
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crazydane

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Rear axle is clearly not original for a F250:

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He converted it to a hot shot years ago and used it for highway hauling. So probably lots of miles...

It is 4x4:

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Since the rear axle is not original, I'm not sure the front one is either. But it appears to be a Dana 60 with knuckles, so maybe valuable?

He wants $1,800 for it as it sits. Maybe I could sell the axles and recoup some of that? Not sure anything else is worth anything...

It has a 133" wheelbase where my F350 dump is a 161" wheelbase (dump bed is 10' long) with a 2 piece rear driveshaft, so I would not be able to use the 4x4 frame and move everything over.

I'm leaning towards passing on this one and keep looking.
 

crazydane

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I did call around Friday to various junk yards and found the following 4 within 60 miles of my location:

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The first 2 are about 40 miles away at the same location. He said he would take $900 for them both. They are complete and have been sitting in the warehouse for the last 3+ years. He said there had been very little interest in them. I'll see if I can find some time next week to go look at them. The coolant in oil one doesn't sounds good, but maybe this engine actually has just a blown head gasket. Its a 92.

Also called the guy with the one A grade engine, but he admitted the odometer had likely rolled over at least once or twice, so it wasn't really an A grade engine. He also wanted $500.

Haven't call the guy with the 94 yet, but plan to do so on Monday. That's the only one of the 4 with pictures:

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Being a 94, it has the single serpentine belt. Depending on what they are asking for it, that might be my best bet?
 

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crazydane

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If you’re ever in the South East VA section of the state, then I have a complete DTI timing Kit available to use for timing.

FWIW I bought a brand new cowl seal from rock auto for about $60 + shipping. Had to put my own silicone caulk sealant behind it for it to do anything.

Thanks! I might take you up on that once I get this thing running
 

Bart F-350

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Yep, didn't realise that wreckers were short wheelbase.
That was a odd truck, didn' know either that a dana 60 existed in a TTB form?
What made you say the rear axle on that truck wasn't original?
 

Rdnck84_03

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I don't believe an F250 was ever offered factory with DRW. It could possibly be the factory axle with F350 DRW spacers added though.

James
 

IDIBRONCO

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So long block is probably ok, but everything else looks to be a total waste.
I wouldn't bet on it. At the most, I would say that it might be ok. There's obviously no cowl seal. There's also not much of an air cleaner left either. I feel that there's a better than average chance that water got into the ending from that.
But it appears to be a Dana 60 with knuckles, so maybe valuable?
It isn't. A Dana 60 is a solid axle. This one isn't.
He wants $1,800 for it as it sits.
Personally, I wouldn't be interested unless he knocked the 1 off the front of that price.
The first 2 are about 40 miles away at the same location. He said he would take $900 for them both. They are complete and have been sitting in the warehouse for the last 3+ years. He said there had been very little interest in them. I'll see if I can find some time next week to go look at them. The coolant in oil one doesn't sounds good, but maybe this engine actually has just a blown head gasket. Its a 92.
2 of them for $900" That doesn't sound too bad.
Being a 94, it has the single serpentine belt. Depending on what they are asking for it, that might be my best bet?
It just may be.
I've seen a Dealer's Diesel 7.3 for $600 in the southern part of Kansas. It supposedly has a blown head gasket. I'm thinking about it, but I'd feel much better with a lower price. I just can't believe someone else who claims that there's a blown head gasket when the engine is complete. How do they know?
 

crazydane

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Appreciate the feedback. Yeah, I'll pass on that burnt F250 with its various modifications. I'll call tomorrow about the 94 7.3. If he's asking $750 or less, I think that's the one I'll pick up. Otherwise, I'll go look at the 2 for $900 deal. If one is clearly in better shape than the other (like fuel lines are straight and have the holders), I might just pay $500 the one, vs. $900 for both of them.

As for my hill I need to be able to drive this dump truck up with load of dirt, this is what it looks like: (pictures don't do it justice, its a lot steeper than it looks)

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I put #57 down years ago, but it has mostly washed away at this point. Guy looked at it a few years ago and recommended putting down a thin layer of number 3 stone, followed by a couple of inches of 21B's. So maybe that will be the first thing I do once I get the truck running, before hauling up dirt. The guy that looked at it said he would not attempt to take one of his trucks down that section of road and then try to get back up again.
 

Bart F-350

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I would say that between very "knobbely" tires, snowchains and playing with tirepressure you could come a long way.
and if you decide to go 4x4, never install a front locker, with one installed and activated you only can go straight forward, don't do that.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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As for my hill I need to be able to drive this dump truck up with load of dirt, this is what it looks like: (pictures don't do it justice, its a lot steeper than it looks)

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I have heard that the locker duallys do great regarding traction. The electric lockers are now pretty available/cheap if you have a sterling 10.25 axle. I have a set of chains for my dually, wish you were closer as I’d probably give them to you.

Good luck whichever way you go.
 

Old Goat

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Appreciate the feedback. Yeah, I'll pass on that burnt F250 with its various modifications. I'll call tomorrow about the 94 7.3. If he's asking $750 or less, I think that's the one I'll pick up. Otherwise, I'll go look at the 2 for $900 deal. If one is clearly in better shape than the other (like fuel lines are straight and have the holders), I might just pay $500 the one, vs. $900 for both of them.

As for my hill I need to be able to drive this dump truck up with load of dirt, this is what it looks like: (pictures don't do it justice, its a lot steeper than it looks)

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I put #57 down years ago, but it has mostly washed away at this point. Guy looked at it a few years ago and recommended putting down a thin layer of number 3 stone, followed by a couple of inches of 21B's. So maybe that will be the first thing I do once I get the truck running, before hauling up dirt. The guy that looked at it said he would not attempt to take one of his trucks down that section of road and then try to get back up again.
When you spread gravel on that hill, do it going down hill. Doing it going up hill, you might be looking at blue sky through the Windshield. Seen it too many times.

Something I learned 45+ years ago from one of the older equip operators. The Tail Gate chains connect to the top corners of the bed, drop down through a ring or bracket on the gate corner and through a key hole in bed side to adjust chains for gate opening.
There will be slack in the chain, pull it together where the links are tight, till there is a loop in the chain. Pull it straight that is how wide the Gate will open for your spread.

Also, if something is stuck in the Gate, do not reach in and try to dislodge it with any part of your body, gate slams shut, you will be in a heap of hurt.

Maybe you know this, but other people reading this also.


Goat
 

crazydane

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He wants $2,500 for that 94 7.3 and its still sitting in the truck. So I think I'll pass. I plan to go look at the 2 for $900 or $500 each next.

@Old Goat For sure I'll be going downhill spreading the gravel! Fortunately the house/main road is at the top of the hill, not at the bottom. I was wondering how to hook the chain to open the tail gate just a little at the bottom. It wasn't obvious how to hook the chain when I looked. With your description, I'll have a another look.

@lotzagoodstuff I do have the Sterling 10.25, but it doesn't look like Eaton makes an elocker for that specific axle, at least not that I have been able to find. I like the idea of manually being able to lock the rear axle though.
 

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