Took the plunge...
- Thread starter NTOLERANCE
- Start date
NTOLERANCE
I'm the cotton swab
How would one make up a pressure line for that? Is that a banjo fitting?
I have the equipment to make hyd hoses, but a Banjo fitting I am not sure of.
I am sure there are multiple ways, I was going to cut the hose off and drill and tap the log coming off to put a fitting in. You could probably put a compression fitting on the steel part of the line, or add a flair to the steel part and put the hose and clamps right on that.
I am not sure if it is a banjo fitting or not, I can check tomorrow night.
I am not sure if it is a banjo fitting or not, I can check tomorrow night.
PsycoBob
Registered User
When running a pump that theoretically should supply 2.5gpm to my Spinner II 76SE, it couldn't maintain pressure above 60psi, well short of the 90 the 'fuge wanted.
I'm not subtle. My middle name should be "Overkill." My 2.5gpm centrifuge gets fed by a ~4gpm hydraulic pump driven by a 1hp 3450rpm motor. Excess oil is dumped by a relief valve to maintain pressure. I already had the pump, so I picked a 3450rpm motor to drive it fast enough. 1hp size to avoid the painfully-hot feel of the old motor.
My former setup used a log-splitter pump with a belt-driven 1750rpm 1/2hp motor to run it at about 4gpm, again with a relief valve. It's now a 1:1 drive to transfer oil at 8gpm, soon to be replacing the motor with a face-mount & lovejoy coupling. The 1/2hp motor gets warm moving cold oil at that rate, but it hasn't popped the thermal cutout, even with 200gal transfers.
I'm not subtle. My middle name should be "Overkill." My 2.5gpm centrifuge gets fed by a ~4gpm hydraulic pump driven by a 1hp 3450rpm motor. Excess oil is dumped by a relief valve to maintain pressure. I already had the pump, so I picked a 3450rpm motor to drive it fast enough. 1hp size to avoid the painfully-hot feel of the old motor.
My former setup used a log-splitter pump with a belt-driven 1750rpm 1/2hp motor to run it at about 4gpm, again with a relief valve. It's now a 1:1 drive to transfer oil at 8gpm, soon to be replacing the motor with a face-mount & lovejoy coupling. The 1/2hp motor gets warm moving cold oil at that rate, but it hasn't popped the thermal cutout, even with 200gal transfers.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
NTOLERANCE
I'm the cotton swab
Jared, got the pump. It should work fine. The pressure line is sort of a banjo fitting, but fortunately the base is basic o ring fitting. Piece of cake. Thanks.
NTOLERANCE
I'm the cotton swab
Got some progress done over the weekend, made of a mounting board out of scrap stuff around the garage. Made up the mounting plate for the centrifuge so it threads right into the 110 gal bed tank. Need to work on the suction line, bypass and pressure lines now. I have almost all the fittings, just need a few more.
I dont have the room for a stationary tank/fuge set up, and I know a constantly moving tank will not allow much if anything to settle, but my eventual plans are to have a centrifuge and drive set up. Meaning I can drive and fuge at he same time. Also, I am not 100% sure my fuge mounting set up with be a long term solution, but it was cheap and will get me started.
Also, I dont plan to leave the motor/pump on the spare tire, I will eventually make a bracket for it. I may have to make a suction port on the lower part of the tank, not sure the pump will suck the WMO from the opening at he top.
I dont have the room for a stationary tank/fuge set up, and I know a constantly moving tank will not allow much if anything to settle, but my eventual plans are to have a centrifuge and drive set up. Meaning I can drive and fuge at he same time. Also, I am not 100% sure my fuge mounting set up with be a long term solution, but it was cheap and will get me started.
Also, I dont plan to leave the motor/pump on the spare tire, I will eventually make a bracket for it. I may have to make a suction port on the lower part of the tank, not sure the pump will suck the WMO from the opening at he top.
You must be registered for see images attach
goatwrangler
Full Access Member
Nice, Id like to get into making a wmo set up myself. I have two 55gal drums in the garage. One is full of motor oil.
NTOLERANCE
I'm the cotton swab
WEll, I am 'fugin, but I am not really happy.
When I got my PA Biodiesel centrifuge, I noticed some red oil in the inlet port and inside the fuge. I assumed this was a testing fluid. Now I am not so sure.
I attached a video of m basic system, it took me forever to get the fuge to run.
Started my pump up, primed it with the system in bypass mode. slowly began closing the valve....very slowly........
Nothing, no noise no vibration, just WMO flowing through the fuge and the bypass line.
I start thinking to myself, maybe my pump is too small or motor too slow or pulleys wrong.
So I took the fuge apart, and here is what I saw.
I never paid any attention to the inside of the fuge when I got it and never took the bowl apart, but after it wouldnt run, I took it all apart, and the lower O ring on the bowl was pushed out, and the hole that feeds oil to the bowl is partially exposed. PLus, there is some stuff flaking off the bottom of the fuge bowl.
If I put the system into by pass, and slowly, I mean take like 3-4 minutes to close the bypass, I can get the fuge to spin. I cannot close the by pass 100% or the O ring will spit out. The top of the bowl moved up and give the O ring enough clearance to spit out.
http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c341/ntolerance/?action=view¤t=VID-20120908-00000.mp4
When I got my PA Biodiesel centrifuge, I noticed some red oil in the inlet port and inside the fuge. I assumed this was a testing fluid. Now I am not so sure.
I attached a video of m basic system, it took me forever to get the fuge to run.
Started my pump up, primed it with the system in bypass mode. slowly began closing the valve....very slowly........
Nothing, no noise no vibration, just WMO flowing through the fuge and the bypass line.
I start thinking to myself, maybe my pump is too small or motor too slow or pulleys wrong.
So I took the fuge apart, and here is what I saw.
I never paid any attention to the inside of the fuge when I got it and never took the bowl apart, but after it wouldnt run, I took it all apart, and the lower O ring on the bowl was pushed out, and the hole that feeds oil to the bowl is partially exposed. PLus, there is some stuff flaking off the bottom of the fuge bowl.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
If I put the system into by pass, and slowly, I mean take like 3-4 minutes to close the bypass, I can get the fuge to spin. I cannot close the by pass 100% or the O ring will spit out. The top of the bowl moved up and give the O ring enough clearance to spit out.
http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c341/ntolerance/?action=view¤t=VID-20120908-00000.mp4
NTOLERANCE
I'm the cotton swab
NTOLERANCE
I'm the cotton swab
now my electric motor died.....UGH... never ends.
Looks like clear coat coming off the rotor. My fuge will act like this if the jets at the bottom are not clear to spray. You can unscrew them and look at them or run a strand of wire through them and blow them out with brake clean. If you can get some spinnage I am willing to bet just one jet is clogged.
