Thread to ask questions for my repower??

[Dieselcrawler]

doesnt the torque converter have 3 or 4 bolts to the flywheel? just loosing one wont tell u a damn thing. lol.

 

[greg_a_morton]

well thats how I figured out I had a problem. I put the first nut on and got up to turn the engine over to be able to get to the next nut and engine would not turn. So now I just have to get that one off to check the converter.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

yea i knew you only had one nut on.

 

[trackspeeder]

Remove the one nut. Separate the tranny from the engine. Spin the converter until it fully seats. You can feel the converter seat itself in the pump.

 

[greg_a_morton]

I got the tranny split enough that the converter is moved back and not touching the flywheel and my engine turns over easily. I cant seem to get the converter to move enough to get it to go back and seat in the transmission. I am trying to figure out how to move the transmission back enough without taking out the long bolts that I installed in the top holes to keep it lined up so I don't have to fight it by myself going back in. I have figured out from this that I am going to sell some stuff and put me a lift in my shop cause I am sick of this laying on my back busting knuckles and getting a 2 hour job done in 10 hours.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

i just took down 2 7k 2 post assymetrical lift in my shop. You can have it if you can get it. Its an old ben pearsons and needs a new hose and pump motor. I replaced them with two new bend pak 10k lifts in.

BTW if you remove the bolts that hold the tranny to the motor, it shouldn't be a royal pain to line up unless something isn;t right. I installed the c6 in my truck by myself when i did the swap. Again with the zf5 so its not hard so long as everything is seated. You prolly were fighting the converter not seated.

 

[trackspeeder]

I got the tranny split enough that the converter is moved back and not touching the flywheel and my engine turns over easily. I cant seem to get the converter to move enough to get it to go back and seat in the transmission. I am trying to figure out how to move the transmission back enough without taking out the long bolts that I installed in the top holes to keep it lined up so I don't have to fight it by myself going back in. I have figured out from this that I am going to sell some stuff and put me a lift in my shop cause I am sick of this laying on my back busting knuckles and getting a 2 hour job done in 10 hours.

If you can get your hands in there. Push the converter in and turn. You will feel it seat into the pump.

 

[greg_a_morton]

Had to take some time off from truck as I was getting frustrated but I got back on it yesterday and got every thing all together. I got all the wiring to the batteries done and fueling issues. First off I would like to say that the gear reduction starter has got the power. When you bump the key the truck rocks alittle and then it starts turning over rather fast. I got the fuel bled off and I am getting fuel to the front of the pump where the banjo fitting is. I am getting in between 6-8 pounds by what my gauge says but I am not getting any fuel to the injectors with all caps cracked. I am assuming I have the power wire hooked up correctly to the ip but if I dont will the pump not pump at all? I will get some new pics up tonight.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

if you do not have power to the fss then you will not have fuel at the injector lines.

 

[greg_a_morton]

I went to go check with my voltage tester and my tester is broke. Will go check on a new one tonight. Hope to get to hear it pop off by tomorrow!

 

[greg_a_morton]

i got a tester and I did not have power to the pump. I figured out that I had a wire backwards and got it fixed. I tried to fire up engine but still no go on fuel. It shows I am only getting 8-9 volts at the pump. Does the pump have to have 12 volts to work properly?

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Yes.

Just wondering was your truck a gas truck at one point in its life? Are you getting keyed power from the ignition coil that had a ballast resistor?

Sure sounds like you have a resistor in line.

 

[greg_a_morton]

yes it was a gas truck. It is the coil wire from the key also but I am getting 12volts from the pigtail it has to be in the wire and will make me a new one. I hooked a new wire from the battery to the pump and got a good click. I turned over the engine on three tries and nothing to the injectors at all. I have a good amount going through the returns back to tank. I dont know when the last the pump was running on a engine as it and the engine sat in storage for several years since last use. Is there any way of checking the pump to find out if it is good? I want to have the truck running and tried out by the 25th of February to go to a swapmeet. I dont want to buy a pump if there is any way that this one could be good and I am missing something. I will have to decide by monday and then I might order me one of those uhaul pumps. Any ideas guys?

 

[itsacrazyasian]

see if you are getting fuel out the return of the top of the pump. Take the fss out to make sure the solenoid is indeed drawing the plunger in.

If you need a test pump, i have a good pump you can try.

edit: you do have fuel to the filter head and to the inlet of the ip correct?

 

[greg_a_morton]

yes its getting to the pump and it is flowing out the return lines. If I changed the fitting on top of pump that the return goes to can that affect pressure building to the lines?