Thread to ask questions for my repower??

[greg_a_morton]

Guys I started a thread in the diesel conversion section but there is very little traffic there as most of us are here for the IDI section. First off My Mercury clone has had many hearts as it started out as a 390 truck and then on to the 460, 4bt cummins and now the 7.3idi. I am going to ask all my help questions in this thread to keep up with all answers instead of trying to go back and check multiple areas on here. So to start things off I would Like to thank a member on here(tknomaj) that saw I was trying to sell a few things to get some money to keep going with the conversion. tknomaj sent me a rebuilt set of injectors for just the shipping cost which took quite a bit off me right now. I hope to be able to help some of yall when the time arises like he did for me and that is what these sites are all about! Any way I am going to ask a few very simple questions for this evening. In this picture of the injection pump which prong is the one I need to hook up to the key power?

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Next question is I decided that I did not have faith in the injection line return kit and I bought all new 1/4" line and reused the old caps with clamps and where they all meet up in this picture can I use a nipple and go to 1/4" fitting or do I need to stay with the one on it and run a new 3/8" line back to the tank?

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The reason I ask is I dont know how much flow there is back to the tank and I have a 1/4" line already run that I used on my 4bt. Sorry about the drug out sentences!

 

[Fordsandguns]

The plug by your finger is the cold timing advance, the one closer to the front of the engine is the fuel shut off switch.

 

[greg_a_morton]

considering that I am not using any wiring from one of the newer trucks how would be the best way to wire up the pump to make every thing work as it should? I like the idea of the high idle being on a toggle switch and I just put fire to the pump to kill when key is off. I am unsure of any way of this cold advance that your talking about. Is there any manual that shows how this pump needs to be wired to work properly?

 

[Clydesdale]

wire up the pump? if you meant IP, I used the coil trigger wire from my EFI 460. Key on, key off. Done. Then I alternately piggy backed (after I couldn't seem to find "hot" for the intank pump) back to the airtex pump I have pushing the fuel from the tank to the motor.

Best $50 mod ever, that Airtex.....

 

[greg_a_morton]

yes I will use the coil wire for the on and off of IP. I was wondering about how to wire up the high idle and the cold IP advance? I guess I dont have to have the cold advance hooked up as I will only drive the truck when its nice for the most of the time.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

the high idle and cold advance should be running to the cold start switch over in the passenger head. Its normally closed when under 112F. It gets power from the same key on power source and will advance the pump and kick the idle up when cold. It opens once the motor warms up.

 

[greg_a_morton]

I will go out and check on this. It is snowing sleeting and just nasty. 3-5" snow is what we suppose to get today. I have got 5 logs going in the fire and its about 80 in my shop but when I get on the floor its still cold. Did I mention high this week is suppose to be 33 and I am in north east Texas. **** on cold weather!

 

[itsacrazyasian]

I walked my dogs this am in shorts and a tank top.

When i did my diesel swap, i applied the same keyed power to both the fuel shut off solenoid and the cold start switch. The other side of the cold start switch still has the stock wiring which goes to the high idle solenoid and the advance in the pump. Don't know if you still have the stock wiring for that.

BTW did you finally see what i was talking about with using the 3g ford alternator in place of the old externally regulated unit?

 

[icanfixall]

The return line fitting in your hand is needed for an id engine. The line going back to the tanks is 5/16 and not 3/8... Only the supply line is 3/8 from the tanks. After the filter that hard line is 5/16 not ths normal size for these engines. Notice there is a rubber olive in that fitting you have in your hand... Many owners have no idea this is a possible fuel air leak possibility.... Replce that when its easy to reach....

 

[greg_a_morton]

on the return line fitting I am going to cap the front of the fitting as all I will have is the return lines coming from the right and left bank and the overflow from the pump is returning down the drivers side bank. My question was basically asking if my 1/4" would be large enough for all of it to return in? If the factory line is 5/16" it probably will not be and I need to change my full return line out to the larger line. In a previous post we where talking about the IP wiring. I went and wired my coil wire to the IP then to the sensor in the passenger head then to the high idle. From the high idle I wired it to the cold advance. See if this looks right to yall in these pics?
ATTACH]33300[/ATTACH] ATTACH]33301[/ATTACH] ATTACH]33302[/ATTACH]

 

[itsacrazyasian]

wiring looks good... Your fuel return doesnt. Can't flow the IP return through the injector return. Should be a hard line that goes from the ip to the rear drivers side of the motor to run back to the tank (or fss)

 

[greg_a_morton]

so the IP has more flow than the 1/4" return lines can handle? I guess I will have to run the other line like on the factory trucks.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

yes sir

 

[greg_a_morton]

got the return hardline in place and all 1/4" returns hooked up and looks fairly good. Going to go with daughter and play in the snow!

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Good. Figures after i mention about the cold start switch, i noticed my truck didn't want to start easily and once it did it didn't go into high idle mode. Popped the hood and the high idle solenoid wasn't kicked up.

Damn Murhpy and his law.