the worst engineering part of your Ford?
- Thread starter IDIoit
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Yes, that. Not a big deal at all. Was just throwing it out there since 5 digit odometers were mentioned.i think it's 399,999 then not a reset but roll back to 300,000.
with that said, i don't feel it's a big deal.if you can manage to put that many miles on a vehicle,the odds are not much is still original and miles don't count for a whole lot once past 400k miles anyway lol.by then,it's a likely indicator it's time for a new project.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
I sat there dumbfounded as I cut out my cab corners and found that foam in there. Hopefully you caught it soon enough. If you scroll through my build thread you can see what happens. Even rotted the rocker out on the drivers side.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
Don't depend on the seal to keep water out of the IDM. Many IDMs die from the water cooled option.
Maybe floatation foam for Coast Guard cert? Rots stringers and cabs. lol I did not notice any foam when replacing the lower metal on my SuperCab, though the corner itself was still solid. Used outer preformed piece and bent up some metal to replace inside/lower part. Maybe they didn't foam until after '86?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
True that. They can be resealed though.Don't depend on the seal to keep water out of the IDM. Many IDMs die from the water cooled option.
I know it's been a problem all along, but seems more so with the SD Era trucks.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
madpogue
Full Access Member
Oh yeah, forgot about the stoopid SuperCab foam and the IDM rain garden....
(SuperCab/rust note - check the nuts that hold the rear quarter windows. Only 22 INCH-lb torque, no loctite from the factory, they go finger-loose and let water in. Check, retorque with loctite [option - nylock nuts], leak test with hose.)
Add one more to the "Better Ideas" pile - rear fuel tank supported directly by skid plates. Perfect way to rust out the tank.
(SuperCab/rust note - check the nuts that hold the rear quarter windows. Only 22 INCH-lb torque, no loctite from the factory, they go finger-loose and let water in. Check, retorque with loctite [option - nylock nuts], leak test with hose.)
Add one more to the "Better Ideas" pile - rear fuel tank supported directly by skid plates. Perfect way to rust out the tank.
mack
Registered User
the rear only abs i mean what the hell is the point of abs on the rear and not the front ?
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
To keep the rear from becoming the front!
Not sure if it was mentioned or not, but reverse. In my zf5 with 4.10's, it's fast. In my m5od with 3.55's it's light speed. In my T18 with 3.73's it's perfect, but that's the only one. The other two are clutch killers for sure. Which sucks because my girlfriend wants to learn how to drive a stick and I can't decide what's best for her to learn in. "Fred" is in too good of shape to risk it as I want to keep it in the near perfect condition it's in, T18 is a weird transmission to have someone start driving a stick in anyway, first unsynchronized and same for reverse, real grabby clutch and slower then slow with the gearing and the straight six really makes it go surprising quick when you hit it. Hank is the m5od, easiest to shift but 0 power with all the weight of the truck with the straight six engine and if she ever had to use reverse whoever is behind us is dead. Ernest (the diesel) would be the easiest probably but being the size of an aircraft carrier and seemingly not being able to turn as well as an 18 wheeler rules that out. I have a 46 case farm tractor?.. 
direwulf23
Full Access Member
+1 on the ridiculously high reverse.
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
Not sure if it was mentioned or not, but reverse. In my zf5 with 4.10's, it's fast. In my m5od with 3.55's it's light speed. In my T18 with 3.73's it's perfect, but that's the only one. The other two are clutch killers for sure. Which sucks because my girlfriend wants to learn how to drive a stick and I can't decide what's best for her to learn in. "Fred" is in too good of shape to risk it as I want to keep it in the near perfect condition it's in, T18 is a weird transmission to have someone start driving a stick in anyway, first unsynchronized and same for reverse, real grabby clutch and slower then slow with the gearing and the straight six really makes it go surprising quick when you hit it. Hank is the m5od, easiest to shift but 0 power with all the weight of the truck with the straight six engine and if she ever had to use reverse whoever is behind us is dead. Ernest (the diesel) would be the easiest probably but being the size of an aircraft carrier and seemingly not being able to turn as well as an 18 wheeler rules that out. I have a 46 case farm tractor?..
Start on the tractor, then go to Hank. Some vehicles, like our IDI's with 4.10's, can creep off idle easy. The sixer and M5R2 will learn 'er good on how to get rolling without tearing up a clutch.
Yeah I figured it would be best as you get to learn to actually use first gear too not start off in second or use the creeper gear but only as a crutch to not actually learn to let off the clutch properly and get comfortable with it.
madpogue
Full Access Member
^^^^^ This is why I sometimes throw 'er in 4LO to back into the driveway, just so I can creep it. Gotta be careful, though; geared that low, the torque is unstoppable; feels like a tractor. You could back up over a Mini and it would feel like a rolled-up pair of socks under there.....
One of the guys on a international scout forum jumped his starter for some reason.ign was on and it was in 1st gear.the 345 drove out the back of his garage idling! LoL
Similar threads
