that wrench I don't have

Boston

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91 F250 7.3 diesel XLT Toboggan ( worst snow truck I"ve ever owned )

OK people I collected a pile of parts and its time to start dismantling stuff, question of the day is "if I don't want to take the coolant system apart what wrench would I use to get at that last bolt on the injector pump. I'm thinking offset open end basic hand tool but mine got stolen a while ago and dam if it isn't impossible to find one of those. 9/16 angled open end wrench is apparently a thing o the past and Found on Road Dead doesn't list a special tool for that application.

I could take the coolant system off but I'd still be staring at how to tune the pump once its all back together, so I might as well find the right wrench now rather than later. Any ideas, maybe a crows foot but those got stolen as well and I'm thinking there's not enough room in there to get the shaft past the IP housing anyway.

on another note my alternator seems to have some damage on it. The square plug in is pretty much melted off. Blue wire is completely gone and the other is barely hanging on. Going to need a new connector as well as either repair or replace the alternator. I'm surprised it was even working with wires not even connected and all. Looks like an overload of some kind must have occurred, anyone seen that damage before and know of the likely cause. I'm not into simply replacing stuff without at least trying to figure out what went wrong in the first place

also wiring harnesses, I think I might have asked before but I keep finding things wrong with this harness set and would really just prefer to replace it while I have the whole thing apart anyway. Any sources would be greatly appreciated. Or sources for the connectors, I could build my own if I just had the connectors.

just for grins I thought I'd try and get these headers on without taking off the fenders. I'll keep you posted on that process. I'm trying to dismantle as little as possible. I did remove the fender wells so I could get at the bolts from an easier angle. Might work, might not. Just thought I"d try.

thanks folks, I'm sure I'll have a few more questions before its all back together

Injector actually looks pretty easy with everything except that one bolt coming out nice and easy. Haven't removed the injectors yet but once I get that last bolt off the IP I'll be well on the way.

Getting kinda long winded but if anyone knows the right wrench to undo that last bolt off the IP I'd sure appreciate the tip

cheers
B
 

gatorman21218

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I made my own. If you search here you can find threads of people who did the same also. I basically took a cheap china wrench and did some bending with a mapp gas torch. I also ground the face on it too.
 

Matrix37495

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This is so weird because i used my regular old unmodified Craftsman 9/16" wrench...

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RLDSL

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You can get the wrench off the snap on truck. It's an OTC Tool ( OTC administers the Ford/ Rotunda tool program)
 

Boston

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just got back from Autozone and they never heard of OTC tools. I did pick up a set of crows feet and I could just weld something together tomorrow. There is a riser pipe which is part of the housing on the thermostat coming up right next to the thing so I'm not real sure how some of you managed to use a regular wrench? Maybe that thermostat housing design is different in some years.

this ones a 96 but it does show pretty clearly what I'm dealing with. The thermostat housing sits right next to the injector pump and one of the three bolts is kinda hard to get to. When it comes to tuning the pump I've got to loosen and then tighten that bold with all systems in place.

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the red circle has nothing to do with what I'm talking about.
 

icanfixall

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That red circle sender is the cold advance for the injection pump solenoid. But yes, that side of the pump is short on working space. I usually remove the cold advance solenoid and bracket. The throttle return spring connects way down at the bottom of this bracket too. Sometimes its tuff seeing or feeling down there...
 

Boston

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yah I took that off as well as a bunch of other stuff but I was kinda hoping to leave the coolant system alone. Which I'll need in place anyway when I fire it up and fine tune the pump. So my theory is I might as well figure out the wrench thing now rather than later.

lots of good input on the wrench guys, thanks. What about the alternator. Any ideas as to what could have caused the melt down. Thing still seemed to work OK but I'm not sure how with those wires fried like that
 

SparkandFire

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Corrosion is an electron's worst enemy. Water can and will get in that plug at some point, and then corrosion starts. Even with age and humidity etc... The plug's contacts probably became nasty at some point and the resistance went up.... Once there was resistance there was heat. Heat results in carnage.

I've seen in the past when buying new/rebuilt alternators the vendor used to supply a replacement plug and mechanical crimp/heat shrink to get rid of the old plug- but of course now that cost is the driving basis for everything, that added bonus plug has been swiftly eliminated from the box. cookoo
 

OLDBULL8

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Sears has that C shaped 9/16" wrench, just grind the box end down so it fits. Like shown on top of the Ferret box, but that is one I made.

Edit: Just loosen the two bottom nuts a little, then tighten the top nut only when running the engine to time it, saves a lot of wrenching.
 

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icanfixall

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Sorry guys. I can't tell you why the viedo didn't work the first time but I fixed it now. So if you go back to my original post you can clearly see the wrench I made and the factory OTC wrench with the part number...
 
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