that wrench I don't have

[Boston]

good call Sparky
those wires are pretty much shot in that harness, I'll have to cut them back to good wire and replace the rotted sections, drives me nuts not to be able to find a new harness or at least the appropriate connectors

 

[towcat]

for the wrench, click on the link and look for post#29.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49630&highlight=wrench&page=2

 

[Agnem]

just got back from Autozone and they never heard of OTC tools.....

Big surprise there!



Be that as it may, I've used the OTC tool and everybody who's watched me time a truck will tell you I don't use one. I have a modified Ford starter wrench that came from Sears, and a cheapo 14mm metric wrench that has been custom bent, cold, in a vice. These two wrenches get me through any timing job on any model year. As was mentioned, you can improve things a good bit by removing the throttle cable and solenoid bracket. However, that is not mandatory.

 

[Boston]

ya I went to the NAPA down on Steele and 43rd I think it is and the lady behind the counter didn't know what an open end wrench was. Way to hire one, I might have understood if she was a college cheerleader of some kind but as it was it really didn't make for good business.

OK so here's what worked
no amount of grinding seemed to do me much good, I might have considered busting out the forge and anvil stuff but I I was out of gas so what worked was using the crows foot ( which I believe someone suggested and on one side I was able to get a 3/8 breaker ( small one ) on it, worked like a charm. On the other side I used the same crows foot but wedged it loose with a bar off the intake manifold. Sorta worked like a charm, basically no solution for reinstalling it tho.

If there is an online source for that wrench I'd sure appreciate it

I got the pump off tho and am working on cleaning the top of the engine before I install all the new stuff. Basically everything was/is filthy. Most of the nuts and fittings associated with this thing were pretty loose. I did notice the lines coming off the old pump were on pretty tight but not as tight as I might expect for something delivering that much pressure. I'm wondering if there is a torque specification on that stuff.

Speaking of which I should go read up on installing these injectors/lines/pump cause if there is any specific torque settings I'd kinda like to get that dealt with first time round. Assembly grease on anything? Or maybe a torque setting for the pump to drive gear?

I also got the whole mess out in one piece, kinda tricky but a lot easier to dissemble the pump/lines on the bench than under the hood. I can imagine some fool getting the lines mixed up, was kinda on my mind as I pulled the lines off the old pump and put them on the new one. Its ready to install but as I said I want to clean the engine some before I do.

Anyway the wrench thing is a whopping pain in the ass, I ground till I was blue in the face and pretty much destroyed several wrenches before I gave up. One I got to hot and it lost shape and the other I'm not sure why but it wasn't going to go no mater how thin I sliced it. If I'd had a bolt handy to put into the new injector I'd have been able to check and see what I was doing but its so hidden that working blind and not having an example just made it pretty much impossible. Old Henry Ford might have been turning in his grave at several moments in the process.

 

[biggin92]

I use a cheapo 9/16 wrench and cut it in half and use the boxed en,d it seems to work well.

 

[Boston]

I basically went out and bought every weird wrench I could find including a couple of regular 9/16 so I could experiment with the forge. Seems like a lot of trouble to go to tho. Someone at found on road dead is laughing there ass off right about now

 

[94f450sd]

i use a regular old craftsman 9/16 with the box end ground thin enough to get in there.hasnt failed me yet

 

[towtruckdave]

Make sure you cap those injectors before you get to cleaning. All it takes is one tiny piece of grit to trash an injector.

 

[Boston]

ya I left the old ones in until I get everything all cleaned up,

 

[Boston]

ok just spent two + hours cleaning the top of that motor, couple of questions.

Whats the square box with all the wires going into it behind the round thing of about the same size behind the air intake hole off the top of the intake manifold. I covered it before I started spraying down the engine but as luck would have it whatever the drain system is for the block pan just bellow the intake manifold is, its clogged. Thing flooded up to about the bottom of that box like object with all the wires in it and I'm concerned the lower part ( maybe 1/4 inch ) got wet. What is it and how susceptible to water/Gunk damage is it.

thanks guys
I might have swamped the black box but I sure do have a nice shiny engine

 

[MidnightBlade]

That would be the Glow plug controller

 

[Boston]

hmmm and the lower end of it which looks almost like a separate component being as large as it is I'd guess is a capacitor which should be relatively impervious to water unless it got on the leads and then it would have discharged. I'm thinking I can just let that dry out and it will be fine then. Cool, thanks for the tip.

B

 

[MidnightBlade]

Should be alright, I'm not an expert on these things though.

 

[JwS]

Not sure why you had so much trouble with the pump bolts, a standard cheapo 9/16 with the box end ground a little thinner does the job fine and I can't even see the bottom 2 bolts without a inspection mirror and a flashlight.
The glow controller is mostly waterproof, the controller is on the bottom and is rectangular and is potted, so it should be fine. Above that is the relay, which is round with bolty things on top, I think it is also pretty well sealed, though I think water could get in.
They are mounted in different ways so my down may be your sideways...
JWS