Sunpro Universal Sender installation: ATTN Midnightrider& Fellro86

[Diesel JD]

I bought the universal senders from JC Whitney. I was only everable to see Fellro's pictures(sort of) and would just like either a link to the full writeup or some advice from either him or MNR. Mainly
1) What wiring in the tank/sender needs to be changed? I also don't see where these things even plug into an electronic system. It looks like it has just 1 wire and no place to go with it.
2) Do you have to drill a new hole? Obviously it will not fit in the stock sender hole, not even close, and it has no locking ring that came with it.
3) Adjusting the float arm: do you just follow Sunpro's instructions? Or something else.
Thanks,
JD

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I believe you are missing the whole concept on this; you don't completely replace the stock unit with the JC-Whitney unit.

What you do is take the GUTS of the JC-Whitney unit and mount them on the stock unit.

You remove the electrical/float portion of the factory sender, keeping the flange/tube portion to mount the electrical/float portion of the Whitney sender on.

Carefully re-read Fellro's write-up and you should be able to see what I mean.

 

[Diesel JD]

Indeed I must be missing the point. Do you have a link to Fellro's article, the only thing I saw from the previous link was to his pictures. That's actually better. That's good thanks,
JD

 

[Pino2234]

I just tried to fit the sun pro to my tanks today and our gauges to not work with the sun pro unit the ohms are different.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I just tried to fit the sun pro to my tanks today and our gauges to not work with the sun pro unit the ohms are different.

What year model is your truck ??

 

[Diesel JD]

Got mine yesterday and haven't tried them yet. Not your fault if they don't work, the link you provided in the other thread was to a gauge with the correct ohm values for our dash gauges, maybe backwards as stated but that's why we mod the wires right? I finally figured out what you meant that we just use the electronics and such from this gauge and the float/pivot. Fellro's article is good, but just real hard to read on the web. Would you be willing to let me call you and ask you a few questions about what you did? PM your number if so.

 

[Pino2234]

I have a 1986 6.9L F350 Diesel, however I just found a product on JC Whitney that I might try and you will not have to modify anything. The prices seem reasonable b/c the ones I need are without fuel pumps.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2005711/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2005711/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-1986+10101+200729571/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=sending+unit

I am going to call MTS on monday to make sure of the OEM fit because there are two products that are almost the exact same but a $15 difference. Also the product looks better than fords and I would think the board in the sending unit would last better too.

 

[fellro86]

I haven't been getting notified about new posts on the other thread for whatever the reason, I have it set to automatic, but anyway... didn't realize I had PM's and email shut off, sorry about that if anyone has tried to contact me. I can't seem to find the sender online now, I just ordered not to long ago for another one, so not sure what the deal is now. Used to have Ford and GM senders listed together in the catalog, and the resistance of each, but nothing now online...

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

After all this confusion, I searched through boxes and closets and corn-cribs, until I found the original J.C.Whitney box AND invoice.

I compared the information on the box and invoice and this is supposed to be exactly what I used :

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...Id-100000162409/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000162409


I didn't do anything different than follow the pictorial write-up almost to the letter and my gauge reads and works perfect.

I didn't swap polarity of the connections; I hooked HOT to HOT and GRD to GRD.

There are three different sender applications listed that are identicle to this, except for differing OHM ratings, one is for GM, one for Ford/Chrysler, and another I can't recall.


Here is a link to the original thread that started this discussion :

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22425

 

[fellro86]

I did finally find it by looking at the online invoicein my email, I was looking under fuel senders, but should have been looking for fuel level floats...

 

[Diesel JD]

Looks like only 1 wire on the sender. That sender you say is correct is the one you have always been linking to. Again it looks as though its the correct resistance range. Same price I paid too. I'm not as confident in the person who took my order over the phone if she got everything right.

 

[fellro86]

I bought the universal senders from JC Whitney. I was only everable to see Fellro's pictures(sort of) and would just like either a link to the full writeup or some advice from either him or MNR. Mainly
1) What wiring in the tank/sender needs to be changed? I also don't see where these things even plug into an electronic system. It looks like it has just 1 wire and no place to go with it.
2) Do you have to drill a new hole? Obviously it will not fit in the stock sender hole, not even close, and it has no locking ring that came with it.
3) Adjusting the float arm: do you just follow Sunpro's instructions? Or something else.
Thanks,
JD

I'll go ahead and fully answer this, I have a few minutes...
I can see I will need to try and redo the writeup. The gallery there is a bit of a flake, you get the main pic, then click on the sub pics to get the captions where the info I typed is.
The wire that comes from the sender itself will be cut on the Whitney piece, and then spiced into the Ford wire on the factory sender. The Ford sender part will need to be removed, as you will be using it's mounting plate to mount the Whitney sender. There are some square holes where the Ford sender clipped in, one of those holes and then the hole the Ford float arm pivots in will be the holes you need to use to mount the Whitney sender. Since the resistance reads backwards to how the Ford sender does, you have to mount it differently. How I did it was to use a machine screw long enough to hold the sender away from the plate, plastic side in.The screw will hold the distance either by a spacer or I used a nut against the sender, one(per screw) against the sender side of the plate, and one against the other side of the plate to actually hold it in place.
The best way to adjust the float is to have it in the tank to verify position, but if you can't do that, just use the Ford arm for reference, cut to length and adjust up or down accordingly. Be sure to duplicate the bent tip after you cut to keep it locked into place. In the tank, you can look through the vent hole to see where it is in relation to the bottom of the tank(if the tank is off the truck, or you have a flatbed)

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

When I initially used FELLROs excellent write-up, it seemed like it was a lot easier to read/see than it is now.

I think that site must have changed it's system somehow, or something, because I remember it being a much clearer deal.

 

[fellro86]

I thought it used to be better as well, just going to have to redo it I guess. They have done a little changing over there. I'll have to try to get a sender and do it up since I have the parts, as well as the need...