Steering box adjustment

quickster

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I just wanted to know if I can take the slop out of my steering box with the adjustment screw. This is for the 2wd 91. I re sealed the whole thing a year and a half ago before I sold it, and it's as clean as the day I put it back in. But the kid who bought it put 265's on the front and now it's like steering a tank. It wanders pretty good, and you have to pay attention. LOL I'd like to see if I could tighten it up before I have to replace it.
 

Old Goat

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I bet if you replace the 265`s with 235, the wondering will go away.
Adjusting the steering box will help, but if other parts are worn the box can only take out so much.

I had a shop rebuild the front end on my 86. New king pins, Bushings, Springs Shocks etc...
It was like day and night difference. Was like new. Few days later after the excitement of not having to constantly correcting the steering, noticed it would pull like a rut in the road would cause it. Not bad, but was there.
Talked to Russ the mechanic, and he said get rid of the 265 and put it back to original. Put 2 new 235 85 16 and it cleared up the problem.

Wider tires might be cool looking, but Iam too old to be cool....LOL


Goat
 

quickster

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Yeah I didn't put them big things on. Do I back the screw out a quarter turn or screw it in? I replaced the ttb bushings, ball joints, right around when I did the steering box seals. It wouldn't hold a front end alignment.
 

nj_m715

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it's possible, I have done it
but from what I've read, it's also possible to over tighten and bind the gears

I made a small adjustment, drove it and felt no change
made another, and it was noticeably better, not new steering box better, but it was better

the center screw is the adjustment, the outer nut locks in the adjustment
don't lose track of the position of the screw when you try to crack the nut loose

I'm no expert, I watched a few videos and took a stab at it
 

Greenie

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I replaced the steering shaft - it made a world of difference. The original shaft seemed tight with hardly any joint play but the new one took a lot of wander out of the steering. I haven't heard of many successes trying to adjust the box.
 

Big Bart

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Yeah I didn't put them big things on. Do I back the screw out a quarter turn or screw it in? I replaced the ttb bushings, ball joints, right around when I did the steering box seals. It wouldn't hold a front end alignment.
Back it out 1/4 or 1/2 turn and test, rinse and repeat. (Pulls up on the gear.) I have someone in the car, have them start it, and have them wiggle the steering wheel back and forth slightly while I watch. You just keep adjusting till the steering shaft and pitman arm pretty much both move at the same time and then stop adjusting. Hold the adjustment screw while you tighten the lock nut or it will turn the screw with it.

Over tightening will cause the shaft to wear sooner.

When you tighten the shaft goes up. If the shaft moves very far and the box is old it’s possible a small leak will start as now the seal is ridding on a different part of the shaft. If you end up with a leak you may have to replace the shaft seal. You can do so on the truck or off the truck. You likely will have to buy a rebuild kit to get the seal, which are typically $40-60 and can be bought off Rock Auto or your local parts store.

However you will be glad you did it and your steering is tight and right.
 

franklin2

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Those wide tires are bad for the frame also, causing cracking around the bolts that hold the steering box to the frame, and cracking and loosening the rivets that hold the front crossmember to the frame rails right behind the box. There is a TSB on this. The TSB is for trucks with normal tires. Just think what wide tires do to it.
 

quickster

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So I backed it out less than a quarter turn and it took the slop out. When I resealed it a year and a half ago I might have put it back together with the gear in not quite the same place. Went and priced out a couple new front tires, and it seems I might have to wait till I scratch a couple more bucks together. I want to do the AC system complete, and that is going to cost some money.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Went and priced out a couple new front tires, and it seems I might have to wait till I scratch a couple more bucks together.
That's perfectly understandable. I recently bought the last two for my Ex Wife. I think I paid an extra $70-$80 for the pair. That's not too terrible considering the way that everything else has been going up in price lately. But, yes, do get them asap. Even if you have to buy them and let them sit around for a while before having them mounted. Of course I guess that depends on where you buy your tires from.
 

quickster

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The local tire guy, who seems pretty decent, gave me a price of $440 for 2 Hankook 235's. I think I paid 110 a pc for 215's 2 years ago when did all 6. The fronts wore funny because the ttb bushings needed to be replaced, which I did. 220 a tire installed sounds a little high.
 

Big Bart

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The local tire guy, who seems pretty decent, gave me a price of $440 for 2 Hankook 235's. I think I paid 110 a pc for 215's 2 years ago when did all 6. The fronts wore funny because the ttb bushings needed to be replaced, which I did. 220 a tire installed sounds a little high.
You can compare your price on this site, also you can look at alternatives. This is Discount Tire Store‘s online site, they are one of the largest tire chains in the country and have fair prices if you are not familiar with them. I have used them for 35 years and have no complaints. Costco and Sam’s club are also very fair on tire prices.

I am a Michelin guy for road tires and a BF Goodrich guy for off-road tires. But my IDI had Hankook‘s and they have been decent and held up well.
 

quickster

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Thanks guys. Just ordered a class v hitch and brake controller. After I finish my next job, I'm doing tires.
 

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