SRW to DRW
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hacked89
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Yea the newer f450s I’m looking at the primary difference is the tracking between the f350 for example. Same axle different tracking length. They said it saves 7.5ft of turning radius.
hacked89
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It would be the same on the front and inner rear then I’m thinking? I guess that’s a benefit? Personally I’d just leave the front axle and run SRW wheels.
hacked89
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Unpopular opinion probably, but I need to start towing for distance and often and this is why I’m selling my truck. Will still do IDI for fun stuff. Turbo IDI can pull anything but stopping and handling have undeniably improved over the last 30 years.
@hacked89 youre absolutely not wrong, but I drive my truck so seldomly that it makes no sense for me to get something newer. Idi can withstand sitting for months with a no start.
Buddy of mine tried that with his 6.0, and the injectors got sticky and rattled like crazy til they cleared up.
Buddy of mine tried that with his 6.0, and the injectors got sticky and rattled like crazy til they cleared up.
hacked89
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No doubt
Yes, the f450 front track width increased for 99+. The magic is not longer hubs, the axle beam/housing is wider from ballljoint to balljoint. With the tire being further away from the suspension, it can be steered to a sharper angle.
Jesus Freak
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Can't run em on oil though!
Jesus Freak
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So, here's my .02¢, my "dually" started life as a SRW and my guess is it was converted to a DRW by centurion/Lehman. It has these annoying extension things that are a pain in the butt to get off so you can work on your brakes and very possibly are the reason that the inner wheel bearings were screwed when I got it, but that's another story. I'd get a real dual wheel axle and front hubs.
I know where a dually 3:55 is, but I want a 4wd transmission and transfer case before I go that route so I can put it in low for reverse.
And now the hyjack: the fenders for dual wheels are referred to as "the butt" of the truck at my house, so when I park in a parking spot that my truck doesn't pull all the way into we say "your butt's hanging out of the parking spot". Thus when I figured out that my truck had been modified, my wife began to refer to it as my trucks "augmented butt", so you'll have to live with that tag like I do.
I know where a dually 3:55 is, but I want a 4wd transmission and transfer case before I go that route so I can put it in low for reverse.
And now the hyjack: the fenders for dual wheels are referred to as "the butt" of the truck at my house, so when I park in a parking spot that my truck doesn't pull all the way into we say "your butt's hanging out of the parking spot". Thus when I figured out that my truck had been modified, my wife began to refer to it as my trucks "augmented butt", so you'll have to live with that tag like I do.
Appreciate the input, I was leaning a bit towards going with a factory style setup instead of a spacer kit, I'll have to keep an eye out for one.
Another truck got dropped at the wrecker today. 460 big block, however to move it they bolted dually rims to it, rears are on backwards so they clear the springs haha
Another truck got dropped at the wrecker today. 460 big block, however to move it they bolted dually rims to it, rears are on backwards so they clear the springs haha
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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Concerning DRW fronts, what I have seen and I see a lot, just about all 4x4 DRW front axles use the same axle as SRW but with spacers added; I often see these spacers for sale at swap meets; usually around $75-$100/pair.
With a bit of lathe work, these same spacers can be employed on the rear axle to allow for duals; HOWEVER, although you are increasing load carrying ability of four tires versus two, you are moving the wheel centers outward from the bearing centers and could put more stress on the bearings; I would recommend a good STOUT axle truss, preferable home-built for strength instead of one of the aftermarket ones that are more for looks than real support; I am meaning a welded-to-the-axle truss.
This is the same reason I don't like a "dually" as compared to a chassis-cab.
With a bit of lathe work, these same spacers can be employed on the rear axle to allow for duals; HOWEVER, although you are increasing load carrying ability of four tires versus two, you are moving the wheel centers outward from the bearing centers and could put more stress on the bearings; I would recommend a good STOUT axle truss, preferable home-built for strength instead of one of the aftermarket ones that are more for looks than real support; I am meaning a welded-to-the-axle truss.
This is the same reason I don't like a "dually" as compared to a chassis-cab.
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