So what did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter GOOSE
- Start date
@Jesus Freak
NICE to have alternative options...
Give it a week and you will be barkin gears in the SportsBronco
NICE to have alternative options...
Give it a week and you will be barkin gears in the SportsBronco
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
For real, even NA I can usually start moving uphill without giving throttle.Who needs to slip a clutch to take off when the idi's torque just laughs and says nah, we goin'
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
Dually= cowboy Cadillac@Jesus Freak
NICE to have alternative options...
Give it a week and you will be barkin gears in the SportsBronco
Bronco= cowboy Corvette
Bullnose motorhome= weird fat uncle with drinking problem (6mpg)
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That's pretty sad. Cubey was getting 7-8 out of his. Yours looks like it was built like his was too.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
It's a gasser....id expect better from a turbo charged diesel.
IDIoit
MachinistFabricator
me, that would be me, last weekend.Who needs to slip a clutch to take off when the idi's torque just laughs and says nah, we goin'
bent my t case shifter and didnt have 4lo
had to wheel out in 4 high
fried that clutch a few times.
also, with a 150 cc IP on,
it will grab 4'th, climb to 30 psi
and then smoke the tire.... i mean clutch lol
new south bend ready to install
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But he was literally "jammed between a Rock and a Hard Place"VVV This was the easy parts...
@IDIoit
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Now that makes sense. In fact, you should be proud to be getting 6 MPG.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
That's with the engine off, going down hill with a hard tail wind.....if I actually crank it up it moves from MPG TO GPM.....
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Thursday afternoon replaced the R/R Parking Brake Cable.
I was trying to adjust the equalizer on the Frame in front of the
L/R wheel to get the Parking Brake to hold. The peddle goes to
the floor. Did have it so about 3 clicks and it held good. Then over
time kept going lower and lower.
Turning the adjustment nut, and the equalizer was pulling one
cable more than the other. The Cable from the R/R was sticking
out 2" longer than the other one.
Finally figured out the R/R one was frozen/rusty inside and not
moving.
Also think it was maybe the original as is a spiral type sheath, so
was letting moisture/salt etc... get in over the years.
The L/R has a plastic covering, so must have been replaced at
some time in the past.
Did some Google searching and as far as OEM/NOS seems the supply
has dried up. Did find one for the R/R but $100, on E-Bay.
Good info on this FTE thread.
NumberDummy is a retired Ford Parts manager and has all the books
and info that goes way back. Sad he pass away a year or so back.
Post#5 has the part #`s etc...
With my Part#s etc... picked up 2 Cables at O`Reallys.
BHH BC94483 is L/R
BHH BC94482 is R/R
Cut the old Cable with my cut off wheel as close to the Backing Plate
as I could. Then two clamps on top of the Diff., and one on the bottom
of the Frame Rail on the Drivers side.
Remove Wheel and Drum. One rubber coated Clamp that can be bent
open, and undo it at the curved piece. and fish it out.
I laid both cables in the bed and both the same length.
Shove cable into the Backing plate, the Clamp, (bend it back) and over to
the curved bracket.
Run it over the Diff., connect the clamp down brackets, and attach to the
Equalizer.
You will need to open up the bracket on top of the Diff. that secure it. The new
cable with the plastic covering is too thick to fit. bend it out a bit to fit when the
Cable is laying in front of you on the truck bed.
The most difficult part is attaching the spring to the curved Parking Brake
piece. The new spring is much stiffer....or so it seems.
My Old Spring was broken in the center.
Used a Bungee to hold the curved piece back from flopping around.
Clamped a 6" VC on the button end, and a Screwdriver I cut a "V" into.
I cut it a bit deeper to compress the spring back on the cable and pop it into
place. That was a P I T A.
Note:
I had an old flat blade Screw Driver I cut a "V" into when I was replacing the
Brake shoes. That worked good when replacing the little red Spring on the Bent Nail.
Hope this helps someone.
Goat
I was trying to adjust the equalizer on the Frame in front of the
L/R wheel to get the Parking Brake to hold. The peddle goes to
the floor. Did have it so about 3 clicks and it held good. Then over
time kept going lower and lower.
Turning the adjustment nut, and the equalizer was pulling one
cable more than the other. The Cable from the R/R was sticking
out 2" longer than the other one.
Finally figured out the R/R one was frozen/rusty inside and not
moving.
Also think it was maybe the original as is a spiral type sheath, so
was letting moisture/salt etc... get in over the years.
The L/R has a plastic covering, so must have been replaced at
some time in the past.
Did some Google searching and as far as OEM/NOS seems the supply
has dried up. Did find one for the R/R but $100, on E-Bay.
Good info on this FTE thread.
NumberDummy is a retired Ford Parts manager and has all the books
and info that goes way back. Sad he pass away a year or so back.
Post#5 has the part #`s etc...
replacing parking brake cable - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - replacing parking brake cable - looking to replace my parking break cable, as of right now pedal goes straight to floor with no resistance. I have a Haynes Repair manual but could not find anything on replacing the cable. I have a 81...
www.ford-trucks.com
With my Part#s etc... picked up 2 Cables at O`Reallys.
BHH BC94483 is L/R
BHH BC94482 is R/R
Cut the old Cable with my cut off wheel as close to the Backing Plate
as I could. Then two clamps on top of the Diff., and one on the bottom
of the Frame Rail on the Drivers side.
Remove Wheel and Drum. One rubber coated Clamp that can be bent
open, and undo it at the curved piece. and fish it out.
I laid both cables in the bed and both the same length.
Shove cable into the Backing plate, the Clamp, (bend it back) and over to
the curved bracket.
Run it over the Diff., connect the clamp down brackets, and attach to the
Equalizer.
You will need to open up the bracket on top of the Diff. that secure it. The new
cable with the plastic covering is too thick to fit. bend it out a bit to fit when the
Cable is laying in front of you on the truck bed.
The most difficult part is attaching the spring to the curved Parking Brake
piece. The new spring is much stiffer....or so it seems.
My Old Spring was broken in the center.
Used a Bungee to hold the curved piece back from flopping around.
Clamped a 6" VC on the button end, and a Screwdriver I cut a "V" into.
I cut it a bit deeper to compress the spring back on the cable and pop it into
place. That was a P I T A.
Note:
I had an old flat blade Screw Driver I cut a "V" into when I was replacing the
Brake shoes. That worked good when replacing the little red Spring on the Bent Nail.
Hope this helps someone.
Goat
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Started taking out the IP from my bus. It's blocking the office trailer in my yard that my dad wants to take. If I can get bus running it would be way easier than winching it around all these corners!
I dropped my 10mm into the valley pan when taking off the throttle bracket and that was a good stopping point haha
I dropped my 10mm into the valley pan when taking off the throttle bracket and that was a good stopping point haha
Attachments
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Well naturally. I wonder what it is about those things that makes them disappear so often?
DougBoy66
Full Access Member
Harbor Freight knows the deal 
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