XOLATEM
Full Access Member
One of them sorta looks like Chuckie...
So what did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter GOOSE
- Start date
Put the up pipe on. Didn’t drive it around though, didn’t want to wake up the house this time of night.
Worked on a different kind of IDI today, a 3 cylinder Deutz with indirect injection in a trencher. The injectors are held in by retainers similar to those used to keep lifters from rotating, but they also pin the injectors down. Copper o ring right around the pintle. Stupid design if you ask me. Anyway, the bolt for the injector retainer in the middle cylinder had snapped off, must’ve been cracked. Just put new injectors in it, which were leaking from the midseam where they screw together. Probably also from vibration. (New ones were leaking, old ones were toast. It was blowing white smoke, and is air cooled. Dad was really confused, all wound up about how it is ingesting water somehow. I was confused too, until I looked up the model number and learned that is sports indirect injection. And it was thumping. So the service manager pulled off the head, and checked valves and rings. Seemed fine. So I argued with him and Dad about how it might be injectors. Injectors for that thing are cheap, so they ordered some and voila. Still sounds a little unhealthy, it has unit injectors and the plungers might be worn, making the injection pressure lower than it should be, but that is my guess and I don’t know for sure. I’m surprised it still runs at all, if you run it at night you can see the engine glowing red! Flame from the exhaust shoots clear to the ground at night. Oh and it blow smoke like crazy for a 2.3L 3 cylinder. Non turbo. Must have steel pistons, if toy are trenching along the exhaust is so hot that it fries, kills, blackens the vegetation in its path. The exhaust manifold is aglow always, same for the muffler.
I HATE TRENCHERS!!!
Worked on a different kind of IDI today, a 3 cylinder Deutz with indirect injection in a trencher. The injectors are held in by retainers similar to those used to keep lifters from rotating, but they also pin the injectors down. Copper o ring right around the pintle. Stupid design if you ask me. Anyway, the bolt for the injector retainer in the middle cylinder had snapped off, must’ve been cracked. Just put new injectors in it, which were leaking from the midseam where they screw together. Probably also from vibration. (New ones were leaking, old ones were toast. It was blowing white smoke, and is air cooled. Dad was really confused, all wound up about how it is ingesting water somehow. I was confused too, until I looked up the model number and learned that is sports indirect injection. And it was thumping. So the service manager pulled off the head, and checked valves and rings. Seemed fine. So I argued with him and Dad about how it might be injectors. Injectors for that thing are cheap, so they ordered some and voila. Still sounds a little unhealthy, it has unit injectors and the plungers might be worn, making the injection pressure lower than it should be, but that is my guess and I don’t know for sure. I’m surprised it still runs at all, if you run it at night you can see the engine glowing red! Flame from the exhaust shoots clear to the ground at night. Oh and it blow smoke like crazy for a 2.3L 3 cylinder. Non turbo. Must have steel pistons, if toy are trenching along the exhaust is so hot that it fries, kills, blackens the vegetation in its path. The exhaust manifold is aglow always, same for the muffler.
I HATE TRENCHERS!!!
Say that last part in a crabby, high pitched voice, and you basically heard me say it. 
XOLATEM
Full Access Member
Is there a way to advance the timing to keep more combustion in the cylinders and not running out the exhaust..?
Or...is it running way too rich and you don't have complete combustion before the exhaust gases are let out of the cylinder..?
My first warmed-over gas engine...I had the timing retarded too much and I just about melted off the headers before I caught it.
It was an impressive sight...but in my wet-behind-the-ears mind...I knew it won't good.
Anyway...I feel for ya...
Or...is it running way too rich and you don't have complete combustion before the exhaust gases are let out of the cylinder..?
My first warmed-over gas engine...I had the timing retarded too much and I just about melted off the headers before I caught it.
It was an impressive sight...but in my wet-behind-the-ears mind...I knew it won't good.
Anyway...I feel for ya...
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That's what I was thinking. Cheap injectors may not be of the highest (or even middle of the road) quality. They may be dumping a lot fuel into the cylinders. That would explain the symptoms to me.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I had to take my truck on a little rescue mission for myself. I rebuilt this three wheeler in my driveway from looking like it was ready for the scrap yard to a rideable machine. I forgot to check the axle locating bolts and three out of four fell out so the chain kept coming off. I got to push the thing for probably close to 1/2 mile until I could get clear of the trees. I bet that I'll sleep good tonight!
Attachments
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Week before last weekend, I finally got around to getting the Pass side Door Panel cleaned up and painted.
let me back up here, was the summer of 21, I took the panel down to the auto paint store to buy the paint to spray onto the panel. Not knowing the color, they can take a picture of the color, put it into a computer, and it print,s out the color.
Came up to be Aztec Red. Read later it is Canyon Red.
Used the inside of the panel as it wasn`t fade,d.
They mix up the paint and put it into a Rattle can. Bought it and a can of Adhesion Promoter.
So finally last week, washed the panel, sanded it with 400 grit wet/dry, used some 320 in the worse areas.
Taking off the metal trim piece takes a bit of time getting off all the clips.
Sprayed on the prompter per directions. Then applied the spray paint. Gave it 4 coats.I`ll tell you, that is a very close match.
Put the metal trim on, Arm rest was in pretty good condition, cleaned it up and screwed it back on. Iam thinking it is the original. Drivers side is tore up.
Couple yrs ago, bought all the door seals, window wipes, window channel, Wind Wing rubbers etc....
Think I could find where the Window Wiper are? Tore the shop apart looking for them...
Finally ordered some more from Bronco Grave Yard. Be here this week, along with arm rests, and the little rubber goodies that fit around the door handles..
I did Dynamat the whole interior, and the inside the door and face of it. With the insulation piece glued on and weather seal, should help make the inside quieter.
My Wife should be happy, as it is on her side.
Goat
let me back up here, was the summer of 21, I took the panel down to the auto paint store to buy the paint to spray onto the panel. Not knowing the color, they can take a picture of the color, put it into a computer, and it print,s out the color.
Came up to be Aztec Red. Read later it is Canyon Red.
Used the inside of the panel as it wasn`t fade,d.
They mix up the paint and put it into a Rattle can. Bought it and a can of Adhesion Promoter.
So finally last week, washed the panel, sanded it with 400 grit wet/dry, used some 320 in the worse areas.
Taking off the metal trim piece takes a bit of time getting off all the clips.
Sprayed on the prompter per directions. Then applied the spray paint. Gave it 4 coats.I`ll tell you, that is a very close match.
Put the metal trim on, Arm rest was in pretty good condition, cleaned it up and screwed it back on. Iam thinking it is the original. Drivers side is tore up.
Couple yrs ago, bought all the door seals, window wipes, window channel, Wind Wing rubbers etc....
Think I could find where the Window Wiper are? Tore the shop apart looking for them...
Finally ordered some more from Bronco Grave Yard. Be here this week, along with arm rests, and the little rubber goodies that fit around the door handles..
I did Dynamat the whole interior, and the inside the door and face of it. With the insulation piece glued on and weather seal, should help make the inside quieter.
My Wife should be happy, as it is on her side.
Goat
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Month or so back I started a thread about a Brake line leaking. Looked to be the one from the distribution block, that runs to the rear axle.
Had to do the Cataract surgery and that held me up.
Have had to add fluid to the Master every once in a while, the front section, so that is the rears.
Friday Iam under the truck, and notice fluid running down the edge of the inner plastic Fender. The MC is leaking between it and the Booster...great.
I did start that other thread, any one install a MC from a 87 - 91 on the older 250`s.
I want to deep six the old rusty leaky MC and upgrade to the new aluminum one.
Plus the universal Motive Power Bleeder makes a leaky mess.
Ok, now I guess I have to dive into this mod.
Picked up a new MC for 87 - 91, and Booster for the 86.
The holes on the MC are not quite wide enough to fit onto the 86 studs.
Had to file them out on ea side to slide on to fit.
Bench bled the MC, and installed it.
The rear port on the later trucks use an special valve adapter. Took it apart, gutted it and installed it. Bought a bushing for front port.
Will need to reverse the 2 brake lines.
OH great, the threads are different, won`t screw in.
No problem, I`ll make 2 new Break Lines.
removed front wheel, Battery and tray. Coolant Bottle and inner plastic fender.
Now I can get to where they connect to the distribution block.
Another "OH Great" they are so rusty they look to be one piece, and afraid they will twist off.
Did some Googling and it is the Proportioning Valve. didn`t know I had one.
So will be here this week some time.
This is as far as I got on this project. Truck is down for a bit.
Really happy I dug into this, as I didn`t know the rust at the block.
All the other Brake lines are not rusty. best to get this fixed, and not when Iam knee deep in snow.
Tomorrow Iam headed to PNP and grab every Brake Line fitting I can find.
NAPA and O`Really`s don`t have much of an inventory.
Goat
Had to do the Cataract surgery and that held me up.
Have had to add fluid to the Master every once in a while, the front section, so that is the rears.
Friday Iam under the truck, and notice fluid running down the edge of the inner plastic Fender. The MC is leaking between it and the Booster...great.
I did start that other thread, any one install a MC from a 87 - 91 on the older 250`s.
I want to deep six the old rusty leaky MC and upgrade to the new aluminum one.
Plus the universal Motive Power Bleeder makes a leaky mess.
Ok, now I guess I have to dive into this mod.
Picked up a new MC for 87 - 91, and Booster for the 86.
The holes on the MC are not quite wide enough to fit onto the 86 studs.
Had to file them out on ea side to slide on to fit.
Bench bled the MC, and installed it.
The rear port on the later trucks use an special valve adapter. Took it apart, gutted it and installed it. Bought a bushing for front port.
Will need to reverse the 2 brake lines.
OH great, the threads are different, won`t screw in.
No problem, I`ll make 2 new Break Lines.
removed front wheel, Battery and tray. Coolant Bottle and inner plastic fender.
Now I can get to where they connect to the distribution block.
Another "OH Great" they are so rusty they look to be one piece, and afraid they will twist off.
Did some Googling and it is the Proportioning Valve. didn`t know I had one.
Ford Bronco & F-Series Truck Aftermarket Pro Valve-Broncograveyard.com
Buy Bronco Parts online at Bronco Graveyard. We have an Aftermarket Pro Valve for a 1987-1991 Ford Bronco and F100, F150, F250, F350 Trucks. Shop and save on classic Ford Truck and Bronco parts today!
shop.broncograveyard.com
So will be here this week some time.
This is as far as I got on this project. Truck is down for a bit.
Really happy I dug into this, as I didn`t know the rust at the block.
All the other Brake lines are not rusty. best to get this fixed, and not when Iam knee deep in snow.
Tomorrow Iam headed to PNP and grab every Brake Line fitting I can find.
NAPA and O`Really`s don`t have much of an inventory.
Goat
Last edited:
hacked89
Full Access Member
Does anyone have a t19 laying around? I need some measurements
XOLATEM
Full Access Member
The Novak Guide to the Borg-Warner T18 & T19 Transmissions
The Novak Guide to the Borg-Warner T18 & T19 Transmissions
Borg-Warner T-19 overall length 11.87"t-19 manual transmission physical dimensions at DuckDuckGoDuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.
| 11.87" |
What a freaking day.
Left work, grabbed some oil at the parts store to top off. Drove 10min to get some firewood for my Dad and the truck wouldn't start. Almost 2 year old power master starter that didn't even get driven over the winter. Just clicks.
I did a little diagnosis, couldn't find anything. Got lucky enough to be on a slight incline. Popped the clutch in reverse and it started.
Zip home in the rain with wipers and headlights working fine so batteries at least aren't completely dead, test it again in the driveway. Still just clicks. *Sigh*
Looked at my sister's car, mild clunky noise when turning. Nothing really sticking out but it's been a while without grease so grease it up blind, can't tell if it's going in or just leaking around the zerk because I can't see. Pulled the tire and the grease was coming out of the boot onto the rotor....
Pull the brakes and clean them up. Got everything back together. Can you check the codes? Light was on earlier.....
Hook up the code reader and after a minute going through the menus it just flickers and dies. Tried my other code reader, remember I don't have the correct "personality key", give up for the day.
Dad goes to leave. Car is completely dead. Lights work but starter just clicks. W Tee eFf!
Jumped it from my truck, got it to start. Battery is dated 6/17 so it's probably due.....
I'm done
Emailed power master to see if rebuild parts are available, we'll see what they say. Bought the starter in September of 21 so I'm almost a year out of warranty. Really only has maybe a year of actual driving because it's sat so much in the last couple years.
I tried jumping the fender solenoid, bypassing the fender solenoid, jumping the actual starter solenoid from underneath, only clicks. Grounds are a couple years old, positive cables were replaced a couple months ago.
I think the solenoid or Bendix or whatever just failed. Out of the blue.
Bought the power master because it was supposed to be higher quality.... Pretty frustrated.
Left work, grabbed some oil at the parts store to top off. Drove 10min to get some firewood for my Dad and the truck wouldn't start. Almost 2 year old power master starter that didn't even get driven over the winter. Just clicks.
I did a little diagnosis, couldn't find anything. Got lucky enough to be on a slight incline. Popped the clutch in reverse and it started.
Zip home in the rain with wipers and headlights working fine so batteries at least aren't completely dead, test it again in the driveway. Still just clicks. *Sigh*
Looked at my sister's car, mild clunky noise when turning. Nothing really sticking out but it's been a while without grease so grease it up blind, can't tell if it's going in or just leaking around the zerk because I can't see. Pulled the tire and the grease was coming out of the boot onto the rotor....
Pull the brakes and clean them up. Got everything back together. Can you check the codes? Light was on earlier.....
Hook up the code reader and after a minute going through the menus it just flickers and dies. Tried my other code reader, remember I don't have the correct "personality key", give up for the day.
Dad goes to leave. Car is completely dead. Lights work but starter just clicks. W Tee eFf!
Jumped it from my truck, got it to start. Battery is dated 6/17 so it's probably due.....
I'm done
Emailed power master to see if rebuild parts are available, we'll see what they say. Bought the starter in September of 21 so I'm almost a year out of warranty. Really only has maybe a year of actual driving because it's sat so much in the last couple years.
I tried jumping the fender solenoid, bypassing the fender solenoid, jumping the actual starter solenoid from underneath, only clicks. Grounds are a couple years old, positive cables were replaced a couple months ago.
I think the solenoid or Bendix or whatever just failed. Out of the blue.
Bought the power master because it was supposed to be higher quality.... Pretty frustrated.
Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
@chillman88 check and make sure the nut is clean and tight where the starter motor wire attaches to the starter mounted solenoid. I have had alot of issues with this on reman starters in the last 13 or so years.
James
James
I will dig into that later but I did attempt to jumper that terminal from the power lead and still nothing more than a click. Definitely worth replacing though since it's the only part I haven't replaced yet!
Old Goat
Full Access Member
I have the Power Master 9050 on the 86, been on probably 4 years or so.
Never had a problem with it. But it is drenched in oil, most likely the
Valve Cover leaking.
Goat
Never had a problem with it. But it is drenched in oil, most likely the
Valve Cover leaking.
Goat
