Scattered the clutch

[geonc]

geo-
I won't go as far as saying I am pro DMF. All I am saying is that the DMF isn't totally junk like most want to believe. I do have a supply of used DMF's from salvaged trucks, so it looks like I will be running them for a while until I get one with SMF and then I will give it a try. I am concerned about the rollover noise though, something has to be sacrificed somewhere and people do need to be aware of that before they make a choice. One more thing, I'm heavily involved with a trans rebuilder shop, so I do get to see the broken guts more frequently than most other people do.

Well the DMFW experiences I have had lead me , personally to believe the band aid Ferd calls the DMFW is just that

I have put harder miles and more miles on the SMFW than the DMFW with no internal tranny issues....even with floating gears which the SM units seem to make easier.......

I have had good experiences with the SMFW both from LUK and South Bend....even when the SBC disc went Tango Uniform

I guess to each our own I'm not trying to say mine is bigger than yours it just werks for me

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Well I'm gonna stay DMF. Got the parts for the right price.
Thanks Darrin.

Geterdone!

 

[GaPchNCrm]

Dang man, sorry to hear of your bad luck. I spent money over the weekend too. Did 57 in a 45, and got called on it.

 

[Cheaper Jeeper]

time to start looking for movement on your crossmember....ie the rivets are loosened up and the second thing to look for is the wear on your transmission mount and motor mounts.

Yeah, I'll check all 3 of the mounts, but if you're talking about the tranny crossmember, it's bolted in - not riveted.

BTW, I'm more suspicious of the motor mounts than the tranny mount. It looked good when I did my ZF swap a couple of months ago.

The thing that seems weirdest to me is that it only does it when compression braking and turning left at the same time - but not when turning right OR going straight, no matter how hard I'm compression braking. Maybe some chassis flex going on too....

 

[towcat]

Yeah, I'll check all 3 of the mounts, but if you're talking about the tranny crossmember, it's bolted in - not riveted.

I'm not talking about the trans crossmember, I'm talking about the motor crossmember being riveted. it is very noticable when you are turning the steering wheel with the motor off. have someone work the steering while you are under looking at the frame and crossmember.

 

[Cheaper Jeeper]

I'm not talking about the trans crossmember, I'm talking about the motor crossmember being riveted. it is very noticable when you are turning the steering wheel with the motor off. have someone work the steering while you are under looking at the frame and crossmember.

Oh, OK, now I get you. That was why I replied with "IF you're talking about the tranny crossmember...." - because I suspected you probably weren't....

Hmmn, having the rivets for the engine crossmember loosen up sounds like it would create a pretty serious chassis flex problem. If they are loose, what's the best fix? Drill 'em out and replace 'em with bolts? Are they even accessable enough to be able to drill 'em out without pulling the engine? How about grinding the heads off and knocking them out with a punch? If not, how about laying a few well-placed beads of weld in there to steady up the joints between the frame & crossmember instead?

I've never heard of this problem before, but it sure sounds like it could fit my symptoms. If that turns out to be it, I'm open to suggestions anyone has for the best way to fix it.

 

[Cheaper Jeeper]

What, nobody has any suggestions, or imput on the idea of welding the crossmember/frame joints?

 

[towcat]

Hmmn, having the rivets for the engine crossmember loosen up sounds like it would create a pretty serious chassis flex problem. If they are loose, what's the best fix? Drill 'em out and replace 'em with bolts? Are they even accessable enough to be able to drill 'em out without pulling the engine? How about grinding the heads off and knocking them out with a punch? If not, how about laying a few well-placed beads of weld in there to steady up the joints between the frame & crossmember instead?

sorry I didn't see the post again until tonite. I cheat on mime. I have a contact who owns a "huckbolt" gun and I can get him to fix my loose rivets(huckbolts). Most heavy truck shops will have one of those guns and will put in new ones for a fee. If nothing like that is availible, then a high quality frame bolt is your next choice. On heavy trucks, loose frame rivets/huckbolts/frame bolts is a very common item. The stiffer the frame, the higher the frequency of replacement. You could weld it, I've never done it to a healthy frame though, so I can't say if it's a good idea or not. First things first......check to make sure it's your problem before getting too worried!

 

[ttman4]

TC, you bring up a very interesting point about the loose rivets.
I probably should ck mine, as hi-miler as it is and as many overloaded idiot miles as I've put on it....wonder my frame hasn't broken!!!

Huck machine....matter of fact I just happen to have one. Never used it. Got it few yr ago at an auction in Pocatillo, Id. And it's still sittont "outthere" under a tarp waiting till I get time to ck it out/redesign it into something else, or something...however some of the bolts that came with it are 5/8" & 3/4" & maybe bigger for railroad cars. I have no idea if even smaller bolts could be used with it without other parts. Hummmm....

Last year when I was looking round for clutch kit set-up local Ford dealer ONLY wanted $1100+ for new DMF IIRC....I started to get 2. One for weekday use & one for weekend use.

Cheaper Jeeper, this is probably different, I don't know how long your "sounds when falling into curve" been happening, but on my 2WD rig when I hear "falling into curve sounds" to left or right I start checking & packing my front wheel bearings.....just a thought.