runs like crap, stalls, wont restart warm

[topdog729]

1990 f350 7.3
truck has been stalling when it gets to operating temp, last stall fortunately was in my yard. at that point it wouldn t restart at all.
Replaced injectors, and IP, also all return lines and glowplugs. it starts now but runs like crap. and stalls on decell, when at operating temp. try to restart and it sound like the batteries are dead and the starter has 20,ooo ohms resistance.
Soon as it cools off it fires right up with none of the described problems above.
I'm thinking blown head gasket or bent push rod. Can some one help before I tear my motor apart for nothing?
At my wits end and my wallets end also. Starting to feel like the U S Gov.here... throwing money at a problem with no positive results lol

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

When you changed the IP did you remove the timing gear cover with the IP?
Did these problems arise before or after the listed work was done?

 

[topdog729]

prior, however changing the ip injectors and plugs got it to restart again. timing cover was interchanged between ips and engine set to around 11oclock and y mark on ip gear set to 6 oclock for static time

 

[hesutton]

I sure hope that IP gear is timed correctly with the cam gear.

When you replaced the IP and injectors, were they newly rebuilt units or used units?

Heath

 

[typ4]

And yet another person that doesnt read the procedure.

 

[flareside_thun]

I'll bet he bought used...and it's bad......Seems that way anyways. When it gets hot and stalls again, pour some cold water on it and try and start it again. if it starts, you got jipped on the pump.

 

[topdog729]

The injectors where new, IP used. , let me add this perhaps it 'll help you help me. The the day the problems became apparent, I was going down the hgwy and the lower radiator hose blew. Replaced hose and got her underway. that night she ran great, Plenty of power till loaded. after loading she began to run crappy and the stalling started. it would cool and restart. This is why I m thinking blown head gasket. It starts fine idle is a little rough at first but smoothes out after a min or 2 just no power. Thinking as the gasket warms it spreads and the shutdown takes place. after cooling it contracts and starts till it spreads again.

 

[topdog729]

@ flares lol perhaps but the clown at crazy rays didn 't know what it was. Could have told him it was a dome light modulator valve, choose to say fuel pump and paid 18 bucks for it.
Not the bigest loss of my life lol

 

[typ4]

Is it pushing coolant out the cap or exhaust, you may have a plugged fuel filter, air filter any number of things, head gaskets dont normally act different warm or cold.

 

[topdog729]

No coolant loss that I can see, What has me most befuddled is that she isn't overheated.
and at the shut down the hard crank. Batteries are less then 3 weeks old starter brand spanking new. and when this occurrence take place, (warm motor) I got a better chance at getting a hamster to pull a 66 car train up mt Everest, then i got turning that motor over. But soon as it's cold 3 or 4 cranks and wella I can drive an 1/8 of a mile before I have to push into a parking place. Which by the way is quickly loosing it's appeal... 11,000 lb truck, 175 lb man, and a slight incline, just isn't leaving much energy for the the *** life.
I read some where that ,and I don't no it's name, the round thing that goes to the air intake/valley pan may also be bad. Do any of these problems sound consistent to that component. Haven t been able to use the truck for work so my finances don't leave much room for guessing

 

[Michael Fowler]

Check the starter. You wouldn't be the first person to get a weak starter.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Check you oil collor. if it is not milky then it is probly not head gaskets.
It sounds like you got shaffted on the IP.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Check the starter. You wouldn't be the first person to get a weak starter.

replace IP with reman or known good pump.

where did you get the starter from and what condition are the cables and ends in?

 

[topdog729]

I would like to thank everyone for their efforts in helping me. But I think I know my mistake.
The post I read on timing the IP to the engine was rather vague. It said find Y mark on ip gear set 6 oclock engine to 11 Oclock. That was it. Turns out there is a lot more involved, if the gentleman who wrote this is correct. (see below ) I don't know much about a diesel but what I think is occurring is a flood stall. And the hard crank is a vapor lock. Once the engine sits it unlocks then runs again till flooded due to improper timing. My assessment may be wrong due to the fact, my knowledge doesn't extend past, 3 weeks ago it ran, today I have to tell my 4yr old I can't buy her an Ice cream. But I do know I didn't follow this if it is proper timing procedure.....
Bring the timing mark on the vibration damper to align with the timing indicator on the front cover. Take the access cover for the injection pump gear off and screw the access cover screws in a couple threads and lay a straight edge across the screws (the dowell pin should be at 4 o'clock -- If it is not rotate the engine one complete revolution to align the mark on the vibration damper again with the timing indicator). Looking straight on at the straight edge, the left pump gear bolt (passenger side) should be slightly higher than the right (driver side) bolt. If it is not you are out of time and you'll need to remove the pump gear cover to reset the timing gear. The cam gear has a dot and a "Y" marked on it. The dot aligns with a corresponding dot on the crank gear that you won't be able to see and the "Y" aligns with a "Y" on the pump gear (I think you can see the "Y" on the cam gear with an inspection mirror). Once you've located the "Y" on the cam gear, mark the tooth on either side of it with a paint marker or any suitable marker. Then with the gear removed from the pump, drop the "Y" in between those 2 marks, reinstall the cover using RTV to seal it and reinstall the pump. You may have to have the dynamic timing adjusted by the Ford dealer. If it still runs for crap, the pump is no good.

 

[typ4]

Did you take the cover and gear off? Or did you just r&r the pump and leave the cover on? Not the little front cover but the gear cover.

Also where did the procedure come from ,because a lot of them on the internet are dead wrong.