Truck stalls between shifting

Va_Mike

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I would put the regulator after the filter right before the IP and tie the bypass return into the towards tank line not through the caps. Depending on your pump I can fill a gallon jug in under 60 seconds off my bypass line. You want to minimize fuel through the caps. They are there for injector bleed off.
I didn't think the caps could handle much pressure so I really didn't plan on going that way. My fuel pump will also fill a gallon in about a min (it's a 110 gph pump).
Just out of curiosity what would the problem be with having the regulator just before the filter? It would just mean that the filter and the pump would be at 5 psi, and the bypass pump into the return line just after the IP. I could remove the line that goes to the first injector cap and make that port the pressure gauge to verify pressure.
Would this cause a problem that I am not seeing?
 

hacked89

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I didn't think the caps could handle much pressure so I really didn't plan on going that way. My fuel pump will also fill a gallon in about a min (it's a 110 gph pump).
Just out of curiosity what would the problem be with having the regulator just before the filter? It would just mean that the filter and the pump would be at 5 psi, and the bypass pump into the return line just after the IP. I could remove the line that goes to the first injector cap and make that port the pressure gauge to verify pressure.
Would this cause a problem that I am not seeing?
You'll have variable pressure drop to varying degrees. If you have a gauge on your reg you're not going to know the true psi at the ip inlet. Your most accurate and consistent feed to the ip inlet is having the reg right before it. I'm not clear on your pressure measuring idea. How is that measuring your ip inlet psi? Is your idea that the bypass psi is equivalent to your reg'd outlet?
 

Va_Mike

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You'll have variable pressure drop to varying degrees. If you have a gauge on your reg you're not going to know the true psi at the ip inlet. Your most accurate and consistent feed to the ip inlet is having the reg right before it. I'm not clear on your pressure measuring idea. How is that measuring your ip inlet psi? Is your idea that the bypass psi is equivalent to your reg'd outlet?
My thought was that if the filter housing bypass port was plugged with the gauge installed there and the only line coming off the filter is the IP line. If the filter head is at 5psi shouldn't the only other line coming off of it also be 5 psi? I could also plug the bypass with a standard plug and then put a tee where the IP line attaches to the filter head and install the gauge there at the start of the IP supply line, this I guess would give a more accurate measurement of the IP line pressure.
 

Va_Mike

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Well it has been a long time but I finally got a little bit of time to work on the fuel system. And this is what I got put together. I used a bypass regulator and connected the bypass to a tee that I attached to the return line coming off the top of the IP. I have the pressure gauge at the line that goes to the IP. It seems to be running better but I still don't have the pressure down enough. The pressure was way high and it is now at about 9psi at the regulator.
 

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Va_Mike

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I did a fuel system cleaning yesterday. I disconnected the fuel supply and return lines and put then into a 5 gallon bucket. I put a 1/2 gallon of power service cleaner into the bucket and then added a 1/2 gallon of fresh diesel and let the truck run on that mixture for about 3 hours till the fuel was very low in the bucket. I expected the fuel to get dirty and dark (it did darken a bit) but instead some chunky stuff came out. But the truck is running way better. I was able to drive the truck for the first time without it stalling between shifting. The picture is what came out of the fuel system.
 

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