Red's got charging problems AGAIN!

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

One of my 83's has had charging problems since I bought it.
It'll either overcharge and burn up the batteries, or not charge and drain them. It seems it'll run fine for 2 weeks after getting it working right, then it will start doing one or the other again.
I put a brand new charging system wiring harness in it after I got it home. But its always had some problem.
Honestly Im ready to sell it because Im tired of it.
But what do I need to do? Has anyone had this problem before?

 

[Diesel JD]

Might be insultingly simple to suggest, but7 what about the alternator or voltage regulator? Good luck...

 

[hoodshauler]

If all else fails find a good old fashion auto electric shop and have them check it out they should also be able to retrofit you with a alternator with the built in voltage regulator.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Replaced the alternator atleast 4 times now. And burned up literally 34 regulators.
It seems like it works for a while then ***** out one way or another in a few weeks.
There is some sort of drain in the system while the truck is off as well, but thats another issue that I dont know how to fix.
As far as Im concerned, the system should be chargine atleast 13.5V right now when its running because of how dead the batteries are. But it was running at about 11.8-12V yesterday when I tested it.

Im honestly sick of this.
One of three things will happen, I'll get it fixed and be happy, I'll get upset and just say come get it, or I'll get really upset and park a $1400 target in the pasture and fill it full of holes. The first and last are best because atleast I get some satisfaction from them.

 

[hoodshauler]

Another member was having the same problems you are describing a few weeks ago. they took it to a auto electric shop the guy was also unable to find the problem so he changed the charging system and now they are not having any more problems.

Just my 2 cents worth but sometimes you got to turn it over to someone who deals with problems like yours for a living.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Did you ever get this problem sorted out? My brother is having the same problem with his 89. Been through 4 alternators and 7 charge controllers. he thought he had it licked last time when he bought the more expensive charge controller, but now its dead as well. He seems to think it has cost him a gpcontroller as its hard starting as well.

 

[riotwarrior]

Come on guys.....these trucks are 20 plus years old. Wires degrade, systems fail from aforementioned degradation.

Clearly taking the unit to a professional at this point and spending a few hard earned dollars is not going to cost more than 4 alternators, 34 voltage regulators and I just have to think there has been a battery or two in there as well.

Do you have other add on circuits? Stereo amps, after market brake controllers, CB, anything what so ever? Disconnect them completely before doing any diagnostics.

Here is one for ya I have an issue with that drives me bonkers.....

I have to leave my radio on, turn key to ACC then while listening to the radio, turn key to off and remove it. If I fail to do this, I often wake up with a dead battery. Something in the switch (read nar 20 years old) is worn out and not shutting off correctly. As long as I hear that radio on ACC then slowly turn and pull out the key I am Golden, if I just shut off and withdraw key, I am hosed.

Check all solenoids too for remaining open, what about dual fuel switching and the valve?

There is lots to think of don't give up just work out one system at a time.

Fuel and related electrical
Lights and related electrical
ETC
One of the systems in the truck if you simply break them down to their simplest forms will be the culprit of the Drain.

I hope this helps, if you have more detailed info, multi meter readings etc, maybe someone else will jump in.

BTW....Betta Services called the parcel is in, I'll go to US ASAP to pick it up.
Oh ya....did you check on yer Rads for me? I need the small one I listed the size in the market place and PMd ya as well.
Thanks

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Well I unplugged the purple wire to the glow plug relay and installed an old original ford regulator and it charged correctly at a constant 13.5V but recently its been charging at 14. so I dont know if there's still something wrong or not. As far as I can tell the GP's were trying to run constantly and it was running to many amps through the system. Or there was a short in that wire. The GP system doesnt hardly do a thing for me anymore anyway because I have hotwired the controll to a toggle switch.

 

[Compu Doc]

14V is fine. That is what mine is running at and I have no problems. On my last alternator the guy from Advance Auto parts tested it and said it was charging at 12V . Idiot didnt realize that in order to charge it needed more than 12V. I am on number 5 alternator now and have been for about 3 years. Love the lifetime warranty. The only problem is they give me a hassle everytime it went bad and gave me the run around about replacing it under warranty. I had to get loud with them in order for them to replace it and its not right on there shelf so I always have to wait for it to come in on order.

The last time they brought one in that would have required an external regulator when mine is internal. Turns out there computer system was wrong for the 91 listing and right for the 92 listing so I had them order that one. They told me before ordering it it wasnt the right one and wouldn't fit. I proved them wrong as it was the same exact one that I turned in on warranty.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

3G retrofit is easy and eliminates some wiring plus the external regulator.

The alternators are expensive but plentiful in the junkyards.

 

[JPR]

Did you ever get this problem sorted out? My brother is having the same problem with his 89. Been through 4 alternators and 7 charge controllers. he thought he had it licked last time when he bought the more expensive charge controller, but now its dead as well. He seems to think it has cost him a gpcontroller as its hard starting as well.

Have you checked the ground wire to the regulator? It is between one of the mounting screws and the regulator. A bad ground will cause it to burn up regulators. I would take a picture, but I don't have a factory alternator & regulator anymore.

 

[Diesel JD]

Wow! Glow plugs cycling constantly will kill it everytime. They pull about 60 amps for each 7-12 second cycle.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

He suspected grounding a couple of months ago, so EVERYTHING is grounded. There are ground wires all over. He is coming over on friday and we are going to pull all the fuses and check resistance from the positive post to negative and then put each fuse in individually and find any drains that may exist. I was thinking that it may not hurt to cycle the ignition switch at each circut test as well as it seems to have been suspect in some of the above cases.
I'll post what we find out.

 

[adam g]

I agree with Mr Roboto 3g ugrade is the way to go. I did it 2 months ago and it kicks ass

 

[riotwarrior]

3G is a very nice upgrade in the charging path as it simplifies things by removing an external regulator as well as a greater overall charge capacity.Having changed 4 alt and 34 regulators tells me there is something else causing failures here.

It's just that if there is a problem else ware, it does nothing to resolve that problem. Resolve the issue first, be it an ignition switch, poor ground due to corrosion, poor connections due to corrosion or what have you. Then once you have your electrical system bugs resolved, upgrade to the newer style 3G alternator and reap the rewards.

In now way am I an electrical specialist, I just happen to have installed car audio and other electronic gear in automobiles for about 3 years. Doing so you see all kinds of issues. Issues that come back to haunt you because you installed 5 - 10 grand of electrical components and now the car's electrical wont work correctly yet everything you did is flawless. Perhaps some bumped wiring that now issues with poor connections etc.

I learned to really scrutinize a vehicle and make suggestions to their owners, prior to going and doing large scale installs. Kids do not want to be told their car may have problems because it is an old POS or what have you.

In my experience, "GROUNDS" tend to be a real issue because there are many throughout the vehicle and the problem stems from different ground potentials because of the placement throughout the vehicle.

Second to that is overall general health of the vehicles electrical, has it been hacked to death by previous owners, are there scotch locks used to piggy back power off systems not designed for the extra load? (People Scotch locks are bad bad bad)

A stock system will last for years if maintained, and kept in good general working order. Our trucks are wonderful because of the lack of computers, and fancy smancy air bags, Anti lock brakes, and all that other wonderfully over installed factory stuff.

By checking each "arm" of the electrical system independently, you can work systematically through the entire vehicle, IE lights, (that means all of em, including dash and interior) Fuel system, switches, fuel solenoids, tank valves, ignition to which there is none other than GP and the IGN switch itself, starter, charge etc.

One system at a time keeps you focussed. I would start with removing non stock items from the equation then GP, and proceed as follows, starting include the ign switches in column, Charge, Fuel, lights, then work back to the non stock items one at a time.

I do hope this helps.