Recommendations for AC coolant.

[Selahdoor]

Who here has used one of those cans of coolant that you can buy at the auto parts place, to top up the coolant on their AC?

How did that go for you?

Recommendations for what one to use? How to use it? Etc...

Is it worth it to buy the more expensive ones?

Or is the cheap one good enough?



My AC gets kinda sorta cold. More than just letting the fan blow cold air. But that's about it.

So I know it works. Just doesn't really get cold.

I'm hoping one of those cans will fix it.

 

[chris142]

You really need to service it correctly. Pull the tube and see if it's contaminated. Is the accumulator the original R12 one? How about the Orange tube if converting to r134a?

Vacuum pump?

 

[TNBrett]

Is your truck already r134a? If so, I’d say go with the cheapest option. Basically all you need is the refrigerant (r134a) and a charging hose. Most of it is just marketing gimmicks. I can’t speak to specific products because I have multiple sets of gauges etc. I just by the $6 cans of the gas and charge it as needed.


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[Booyah45828]

Are you talking about refrigerant? Or coolant? Refrigerant is what used in air conditioning, but unless your system is setup for r134a, those cans on the shelf at the parts store won't work for you as you are now.

I agree with the cheap cans, and near me walmart and menards have the cans cheaper then what any of the parts stores would sell them to me with a wholesale account. Also, get the simple cans of r134a and a can tap for about 10. The gimmicky brands like ac pro cost 30 bucks, whereas a 12 oz can can be had for less then 5.

 

[Selahdoor]

I have a hunch it's already set up for 134a.

But I am not going to spend a bunch of bucks to find out. Or to buy a vacuum pump or gauges or any other equipment.

I am going to just assume it is, and go with a can that already has a hose.

I have heard about NOT using a specific kind, because it causes clogs. Something about oil, or something? I can't remember what that was, so hoping for a clue here.

 

[chris142]

I have a hunch it's already set up for 134a.

But I am not going to spend a bunch of bucks to find out. Or to buy a vacuum pump or gauges or any other equipment.

I am going to just assume it is, and go with a can that already has a hose.

I have heard about NOT using a specific kind, because it causes clogs. Something about oil, or something? I can't remember what that was, so hoping for a clue here.

Do not add any with stop leak in it.

 

[Cubey]

Someone already did the conversion on my F250. It quit blowing very cold after a few years. Last year I got two of the $5 cans from Walmart and they got it blowing cold again. I already had the hose/valve/gauge that I got at a garage sale. It's like the ones sold in stores for filling by consumers.

My RV has the conversation too but it has zero pressure so I haven't tried to fill it. In fact the AC v belt is still off from when I replaced the power steering pump a couple months ago, since AC is inoperable.

 

[Selahdoor]

Yes, I meant refrigerant.

 

[ComatoseLlama]

If it’s still R12 for $20 you can get your EPA Section 609 license to purchase and use R12. I don’t think 134a will ever be as good in these old systems

The test is open book and pretty easy (50 questions)

https://www.escogroup.org/training/epa609.aspx

 

[TNBrett]

Something like this will allow you to put the refrigerant in, and have a basic idea of a proper charge. This should hook right up to the cheap cans of r134a.

InterDynamics EZ Chill Car Air Con...=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PVW90YK7WWVNRP7RGEX3

The r134a connectors look similar to a larger air hose quick connect. If your truck has threaded fittings, then it probably hasn’t been converted, and you would probably need someone else to do that for you. If you’re not sure, post a pic or two.

There is a low pressure side fitting, and a high pressure side fitting. You always charge on the low pressure side. The kit above will only hook to the low pressure side, so you shouldn’t be able to get that wrong. The low pressure fitting is slightly smaller and will have a blue or black cap that screws off, and the high side is slightly larger with either a red or black cap.

Just get basic refrigerant. You don’t need leak stoppers, UV dyes, “cooling enhancers”, magic fairy dust, or a promised cure for male pattern baldness. And honestly, if your system hasn’t ruptured and you haven’t replaced any hard parts, the amount of oil in the system is probably correct so you don’t need to add any of that either.


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[BrianX128]

Cheap cans are fine as long as there is no stop leak like others mentioned, however every old system on these year trucks that I've worked on have all had the orifice tube either clogged or the screen blown totally out. If you want to fix it "closer" to right without spending money on various things...

Buy a new orifice tube for like 2$, red or blue ones work best in my experience over the variable orange one. I used red. Pull the tube out with needle nose pliers gently after dumping the system however you see fit.. not advocating blowing your refrigerant into the atmosphere but....

Once you replace the tube, add a couple of oz of ester oil, they have the little cans at places like rural king that hook up to the charge cans of 134a. Add 3 cans of refrigerant. I've done this to two idi systems and it's ice cold. One screen had goo all over it on the orifice tube, one was in half. This will cause garbage cooling efficiency.

 

[WAID]

I know you said you don't want to buy a bunch of tools for it, but if you change your mind, the vacuum pumps and A/C manifolds are actually decent. I used them when I converted my long dead R12 system over and again for a buddy's class B RV.

As for refrigerant, the cheapest cans are probably your best best since they will be only refrigerant, the ones with oil or stopleak all cost more. If it is just a small leak its probably best not to add any oil especially if you don't know what conversion oil was added. A can with some dye might be worth a shot just in case there is a leak to be found.

 

[Black dawg]

I have a hunch it's already set up for 134a.

But I am not going to spend a bunch of bucks to find out. Or to buy a vacuum pump or gauges or any other equipment.

I am going to just assume it is, and go with a can that already has a hose.

I have heard about NOT using a specific kind, because it causes clogs. Something about oil, or something? I can't remember what that was, so hoping for a clue here.

You do realize the fittings on the truck are different r134 vs r12?

You will probably be fine adding some to it.

It is crazy to me the licensing and certification needed to buy and use the 30 pounders, by people with the proper equipment........but anybody can buy the 12oz cans.

 

[WAID]

You do realize the fittings on the truck are different r134 vs r12?

You will probably be fine adding some to it.

It is crazy to me the licensing and certification needed to buy and use the 30 pounders, by people with the proper equipment........but anybody can buy the 12oz cans.

It would be possible for a shadetree mechanic to do a conversion without swapping fittings or leaving the conversion fittings in place. Though I'm not sure I understand why one would suspect a conversion with no conversion parts.

 

[Booyah45828]

You do realize the fittings on the truck are different r134 vs r12?

You will probably be fine adding some to it.

It is crazy to me the licensing and certification needed to buy and use the 30 pounders, by people with the proper equipment........but anybody can buy the 12oz cans.

You and me both. A person could buy a skid of r134a in hand grenades no questions asked, but I have to have a license # on file to buy a 30 lb tank.

For the record, I actually did buy a skid of the grenades from menards a few years ago. They had it on sale for 2.50 a can and I bought all they had. And 2.50/12 oz was cheaper/ounce then a 30lb cylinder was.