Rear main seal

[Timthetoolman]

I gonna put my new SMF kit in old red in a couple of weeks, the main is ever so lightly leaking.

How hard or how do you replace the rear main seal, is there much to get it done, what cautions should I be aware of.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

It's pretty simple to replace.
When reapplying the sealant, make sure you have planty of it for the bottom of the plate to the oil pan mating surfaces. A very good place for leaks.

Of course don't pinch the new seal when installing it over the crankshaft. There's a good way to spend an afternoon changing it back out and spending another 35 clams for a new seal.





Don't ask me how I know that.

 

[icanfixall]

Usually the crank has a groove worn into it and the new seal will leak soon after if you don't install the speedy seal part number is F2TZ-6701-A. About $45.00 from Fordparts Online. The front seal works the same way with the wear ring or speedy sleeve. The rear installations state not to seperate the sleeve from the seal or you will ruin the seal. Not so. I tried to install the sleeve AND the seal at the same time but the plate flexed way to much. I even had the motor out and on a stand. It can be installed without removal of the rear seal plate but requires some special pulling tools. Most wont have then. It also must be installed straight without any runout but thats another story. The instructions state to install it with the driver till it bottoms out and that will be 10 thousands low in the seal plate. When you buy the seal read and understand what they are asking for. If you already have the speedy sleeve on the crank its easy to remove. Post back for any questions. I too ruined a seal while r&r work. My International dealer gets $87.00 for the same Ford item in the same bag!!!

 

[tonkadoctor]

The rear installations state not to seperate the sleeve from the seal or you will ruin the seal. Not so. I tried to install the sleeve AND the seal at the same time but the plate flexed way to much. I even had the motor out and on a stand.

I just did the same exact thing on the Stroke which is very similar and didn't get lucky doing it like that. Leaked 2 gallons of oil in 600 miles and just finished pulling the trans and doing it right.

If you install a seal and sleave you can make an installation tool from a flat piece of 1/4" or thicher steel and use 3 flywheel bolts to bring it in slowly and straight. did this the second time around and it worked perfectly. I used Locktite Red on the sleeve to seal it.

The key is to get the sleeve on perfectly straight because it can chew up the new seal AND the crankshaft very quickly.

 

[RLDSL]

Doing a new seal with a wear ring is the best way, but if just doing a seal, a large fast food paper cup with the rolled lip cut off and well greased up, makes a nice tool for installing a main seal without tearing the lip up.

---------Robert

 

[Exekiel69]

Any chance someone would write an article for everyone with pics and all? I've never replaced this seal on My truck and haynes says to use the special seal driving tool but I read many have done it properly with different techniques.

 

[The Warden]

FWIW, I took pictures when my seal was done. I plan to write it up along with the ZF5 swap (they both happened at the same time); unfortunately, I have been too busy to post as of late, let alone put the article(s) together. However, my buddy pressed the old seal out and the new one in at his school auto shop, and my crank was actually in pretty good shape...no groove or anything like that...

 

[icanfixall]

The seal from Ford comes with the installation tool. Its plastic and requires a large socket to hammer it with but it will work. The new seal has 2 seal lips instead of one so it seals better.... If the speedy sleeve is installed correctly with it. If you remove the rear seal plate you can easily drive in the new seal but. When you try to install the speedy sleeve on the crank while its still in the seal "things" really go bad in a hurry. Its hard for me to explain but most of what has been posted on this is about what you can expect. Using the bolts to draw it in place seems like a good idea too. I just don't like to hammer on anything like a seal. They need to run true on the crank or they will wear a wide path if they are skiued on the shaft.