Rear hub seal.

[bigrick460]

Replacing the rear hub seals on my f350 with Sterling axle. Old seal # WAS FOTW-1177-AA . New seal is national# 370047A. Torqued it correctly and hub is a whole lot harder to turn. New seal is not made like the old one which looked like a seal with rubber coated wear ring. Anyone else run into this before?

 

[Cubey]

You did back off the nut after torquing, right?

In 2017, I put a 370047A on my 87 F250 with a full floating Sterling and it's new seal looked like the old. It fit on fine and wasn't too tight.

 

[bigrick460]

Waited a little while, went back out and the hub turns, although with a little drag, must be the new seal stiffness. Just don't want to mess up the new brake job.

 

[catbird7]

Make sure you check the vent. Very often a leaking rear is not due to a bad seal rather a blocked vent hose. Mud wasp like to build nests in them.

 

[captain720]

My rear vent had a few lbs of mud in it. You should have a little drag with a properly torqued ratcheting nut widget on the back but not a ton. Do a check for heat if there is no drag at all it is likely too loose it's a balancing act

 

[cozinsky]

National 370047A is a untized two piece design. The inner ring remains stationary on the hub and the outer part turns on it. I've installed tons of these over the years and it's normal to feel some drag on them when they're new. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[NeverHave-I-Ether]

I ordered a Scots Seal XL. Supposedly works on these axle, mine torn cuz the PO pulled the axle out for parts and must've worn it.

Never-Have-I-Ether

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

I just had the same experience with a Sterling seal this past weekend. It loosened up after driving and seems to be fine.