Rear Brakes on the 86 F-250, blew the R/R Hub Seal. Whada mess.

[Old Goat]

Back in December had one of the rear wheels lock up and skid as I pulled to a red light.
This is something new, hadn`t done it before.
At home shined a light at the back side of the backing plate, and was damp around the edge, plus saw oil specks under the fender opening and rubber splash shield.

Figuring the worse, headed to O`Really`s and picked up Shoes, Hardware Kit, and Wheel cylinder. Pull the Drum and the Shoes are dry, just the Wheel Cyl just starting to leak.
Easy fix but ya gotta remove the Shoes Springs etc... looks like a pain in the rear to do. Watched a bunch of YT Vids to see how others do it, HMMM...why not just pull the Axle and Hub, and not have to work around the Hub flange. Good time to change the Hub seal and wash out the bearings, Ratchet nut and inspect them.

Picked up a O`Really`s brand Hub Seal, think it`s Precision.

Fast forward 6 months. Wed hauled a load of brush to the dump in my Box Trailer.
Heading back, the L/R wheel skidded when putting on the Brakes.
Back truck into the shop, jack it up, pull things apart on the R/R again. Inside wheel is an oily mess as is the Brake Shoes.
The Oil Seal looked like it was coming apart and was in more towards the bearing, than when I set it.
Washed up the Bearings etc... and noticed now the inner bearing has a lot of side ways slop. Call O`Really`s to see if they have them in stock, but their brand, Precision, and think Master Craft. But they only deliver to a retail shop. Call NAPA, they have SKF, suppose to be made in U.S.A. ?? But they don`t deliver to a home address.

Stupid Mouse chewed some wire on the car, has lights, Glow Plus etc.. but no connection to the Starter. Shuda fixed it 2 weeks ago.
So Iam grounded.

get the bright idea to remove the R/R Hub off the 85, (It`s jacked up anyway) and swap it onto the 86. 85 been sitting past 5 years, figured might be rusted on. beat it to death with a dead Blow Hammer and a Brass drift and hammer.
With Nut and outer bearing removed the Hub would not budge. Finally installed the Drum backwards, screwed on 3 Lug Nuts and using it like a slide hammer it came off.
Get things cleaned up, Hub Installed, outer Bearing and Nut tightened to 55 - 65Ft LBS.
Install axle and it goes in, but hits something, measures 4/8" from the Hub.
Measured both Hubs, measure the same. Axles measure the same, length and across the Splines. Iam at a loss here. Sounds like the Axle hits the end of the other Axle.

Was thinking maybe the old seal on the 85 Hub sits in more, so hub is closer to the end of the Spindle on the Brake side?

Did both sides last Dec and Jan. Went right together.
Guess I`ll be figuring out what the Mice did to the car in the morning...

Or taking the Kioti CK-30 to town...


Goat

 

[franklin2]

When you go back to the store, ask for seal # 370047A. You will be shocked how much you pay for this seal, but it will solve all your problems. It's actually a seal in a seal. You RTV it onto your old seal surface, it has it's own seal surface inside that spins. This gets rid of problems with leaking oil seals on these rearends.

 

[Old Goat]

Franklin thank you for the Seal Part #. I will look it up.
On the left side last January I used a Timkin Seal I bought from Russ Repair. https://russrepair.com/hub-seal-for-sterling-10-25/
It`s a beefy seal and comes with a metal cup to press it in.
Later Rock Auto was cleaning out the whare house and bought the 4 they had listed for 1/2 price.

The tolerance between the Axles in the Differential, must be pretty dang close under normal conditions. Never paid any attention when I had the rear cover off.

Never figured just swapping the Hub from one truck to the other would cause this much frustration.

My Wife has been on me to get the Mercedes up and running,,,
Dam n Rodents...Just shot a ground Squirrel out the kitchen window with the 410. Up to 7 this spring.
Any one need some pet Mice or Pack Rats? Make me an offer, free shipping....


Goat

 

[ironworker40]

I don't know if it applies to you , sounds like your outside of town quite far, but Uber will pick up stuff like auto parts and bring them to you.

 

[mf7lakes]

Good source for our trucks

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Shop for high-quality 4x4 parts and accessories for your pickup at Torque King. Our large online selection includes 4x4 truck parts and specialty tools for top brands including Dodge, Ram, Chevy, GMC, Ford, Jeep, and Roxor. Get the best prices on 4WD parts at Torque King 4x4!

torqueking.com

 

[Old Goat]

Thank You for the link to torqueking, I have seen that site before.
Next bearings I buy will be the Timken, made in America or Canada
from them. Every thing is listed for what ever axle you have by part #`s year etc...

I picked up the SKF Bearings from NAPA, made in China of course.
I remember years ago, buying Wheel Bearings the Race`s and Bearings came as a set. Was just he bearings only. Went back yesterday and bought the Race`s.
Said you didn`t tell us you needed them, a good parts man would have asked that question.
$93.16 Bearings and $36.93 Race`s. 2 trips 8 miles ea way, 32 miles.

So today is Finally getting this Hub together and the new Brake Shoes etc... together..... and the Axle isn`t hitting what ever it was
coming up against. We`ll see.

Spent Sunday afternoon, thru Tuesday working on the wiring Harness fixing up what the Mice chewed up.
Main Harness runs across under the Dash to the Pass side, then through the FW. The battery and Tray are mounted to the FW, and the harness comes out under them which is hidden. The es oh bees chewed through the whole harness except the 2 large wires going to the Starter and Alternator.
Those 2 plus 4 others, then splits and runs down the fender to the head Lights etc.. 8 on that side and 4 towards the Starter etc...

Good thing I have a parts car to cut out a section of harness.
Under the dash the wires looked like when My Daughter use to "Rat" her hair. Cut off the mess and only had 3" of wire to splice and Solder to.....
I come up with the idea to try using Ammonia to keep the critters out. Set some plastic Jar Lids with some cut rags, and filled the Lids, and set under the Hood and one in the Trunk. See how that works... also sprayed around the engine and tires.


Goat

 

[franklin2]

Lots of things people try to keep varmints out, but they say one thing that does work, if you have a place to store it where it will not get rained on, is store it with the hood up. They will go everywhere else in the vehicle, but they do not like being out in the open for very long.

 

[DirtyWood]

Yeah we've had intermittent problems with the rodent population but leaving the hood up even partially will help. Better yet is to add a light under the hood during the night. Some people have had luck with spreading cayenne pepper around. One of my clients actually had to get rid of her BMW after 3 consecutive instances where the mice chewed through ABS sensor wires, but the kicker was when they chewed through some very important and insanely hard to reach wire. Apparently there is even a class-action lawsuit against BMW regarding their use of food grade oils in some aspect of their parts. Keep the hood up and/or chain a cat to the grille.

 

[Greenie]

When it comes to vermin I take no prisoners. I set out poison where domestic cats and dogs can't get to it. About 5 different locations around the buildings. Mouse and rat poison works on rodents because vomit it out I've heard. So far, knock on wood the vermin population is under control but we see healthy wildlife out and around. We've also had long life from our dogs too. Just need to be careful where the poison is placed. Theoretically a pet could eat a killed rodent it finds outdoors, but thankfully that has not been a problem.

 

[Old Goat]

Took care to the rodent problem.
I have fed them enough Peanut Butter, bought traps to have the critters
trip it eat the bait and thumb their noses at me.

Picked up a box of this tasty treat.

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/farnam-16-oz-just-one-bite-ii-bars-8-pk/0000000073472?Ntt=100250354&srsltid=AfmBOoor0kXoqHs4Iz8vPauPNE9Wo7sItZfwG28dgyfS4-_mSDPxjMfpBVY

I had 2 metal Bait Box`s I probably bought at a garage sale. Put one out by
the little Shop, and one under the Hood of the Mercedes. They have been
making good work of it. I just put the whole bait Block in them.
Picked up a Tom Cat plastic one, but it has compartments and some nails to
fit through the holes in the bait sections. Cannot put the whole big block in
the box. Thinking of cutting them out with my Dremel.

Was thinking could use a shoe box, and cut a round hole on each end. As long
as it inside a building then moisture wouldn`t bother it.
I have one in the big shop also. What a mess they have made out there.
The stuff works, haven`t seen any indications of their dirty work so far.

Iam on the 2nd box of them, must be candy to them.


Goat

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Was thinking could use a shoe box, and cut a round hole on each end. As long
as it inside a building then moisture wouldn`t bother it.

As long as they don't chew through it. I've never found a dead mouse or rat very close to the poison. What I've used always takes a while to work. Of course I don't use the bait traps. I just set the bait pout in the open so I can see it easily to tell if it's gone.

 

[Old Goat]

I never find the critters any where once they crook. But the activity sure has slowed down....big time.
Having a box of some type, they don`t like to be out in the open, rather be hiding, under or inside of something.
My bait Box`s are inclosed with a round hole on ea end. Throw in the big Bait block, and let them have at it.
Must love it, and we have lots of them out here in the Boonies with all the Sage and Rabbit Brush.

Was at PNP today and my Wife found a Plastic Box Snow Cables come in. That`s going to be the next Fast Food
joint for them. Will be water proof as far to using a Card Board Shoe Box.
A Round Hole Saw should make the perfect entry for them.


Goat

 

[mf7lakes]

They go to water after munching -- that's when disaster strikes.......

 

[IDIBRONCO]

And that's when I'm the happiest!