RABS delete?

[saburai]

I don't know the replacement trick but if you unscrew the large cap facing front on the valve and take out the spring it will act the same as the bypass. Maybe it's not a perfect fix? Surprised nobody mentioned it so far. Pretty common over on FTE and I did it some 6 years ago.

Just need to bleed it good.

Thanks!
So basically gut it and leave the valve in place. Sounds good. Did doing this effect the ABS light?

 

[hacked89]

Thanks!
So basically gut it and leave the valve in place. Sounds good. Did doing this effect the ABS light?

It's been awhile since I did this. Pretty sure the line itself is 3/16. If you dont care about keeping the factory setup intact just cut the lines and put them together with compression fittings. The removing the spring technique with the RABs ..I remember this does not actually complete bypass it. It only bypasses the dump circuit to fix sinking pedal.

If you want to bypass and keep the lines intact just remake the rabs valve out of pipe fittings and 90 degree fittings.

I suggest the finding the f450 route for cleanest and factory look but if you dont care either of the above works.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[saburai]

I'd like the F450 part. I intend to go hydroboost as time and money allows.
On a side note, using new parts, how much do you think a hydroboost conversion would set me back? Not much in the way of pick n pull within striking distance around here...

 

[saburai]

It's been awhile since I did this. Pretty sure the line itself is 3/16. If you dont care about keeping the factory setup intact just cut the lines and put them together with compression fittings. The removing the spring technique with the RABs ..I remember this does not actually complete bypass it. It only bypasses the dump circuit to fix sinking pedal.

If you want to bypass and keep the lines intact just remake the rabs valve out of pipe fittings and 90 degree fittings.

I suggest the finding the f450 route for cleanest and factory look but if you dont care either of the above works.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

My idea, if I knew the correct sizes, would be to cobble up a union that would allow me to not cut off the factory ends. Like the F450 part, but sourced from the hardware store that I'm at now or the autozone next door...

 

[hacked89]

My idea, if I knew the correct sizes, would be to cobble up a union that would allow me to not cut off the factory ends. Like the F450 part, but sourced from the hardware store that I'm at now or the autozone next door...

Then take a 2" ish piece of pipe. Screw 90 degree fittings on the ends. Screw 1/2 x 20 inverted flare to 90 degree pipe. Screw 3/8 x 24 inverted flare to 90 degree pipe. Take the brake lines off the rabs screw it in the union made.

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[saburai]

Hacked, thanks for the quick solution. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to source the components in town. If I can't find the F450 part on line or fleabay, I will order the parts from amazon...

 

[u2slow]

I'd like the F450 part. I intend to go hydroboost as time and money allows.
On a side note, using new parts, how much do you think a hydroboost conversion would set me back? Not much in the way of pick n pull within striking distance around here...

I studied the hydroboost options for a while before pulling the trigger (95 F350). F-Superduty trucks don't show up in wrecking yards here. I got the Ford/Motorcraft booster from rockauto. Remans did not come with the intermediate pushrod. New lines too. Simply tee'd the return lines together at the ps pump. Moved the pin on the pedal up the 3/4-1" or so to prevent it binding.

EDIT: RABS valve was still in there. I don't believe it did anything before or after hydroboost.

 

[saburai]

I studied the hydroboost options for a while before pulling the trigger (95 F350). F-Superduty trucks don't show up in wrecking yards here. I got the Ford/Motorcraft booster from rockauto. Remans did not come with the intermediate pushrod. New lines too. Simply tee'd the return lines together at the ps pump. Moved the pin on the pedal up the 3/4-1" or so to prevent it binding.

EDIT: RABS valve was still in there. I don't believe it did anything before or after hydroboost.

What did it wind up costing you?

 

[DrCharles]

just cut the lines and put them together with compression fittings.

I wouldn't use compression fittings. The pressure in the brake line can be 1500 psi or more in a hard stop... properly double-flared ends with matching fittings (designed for brake service) would be far more secure.

 

[Selahdoor]

I wouldn't use compression fittings. The pressure in the brake line can be 1500 psi or more in a hard stop... properly double-flared ends with matching fittings (designed for brake service) would be far more secure.

I've got to agree with this.

What I did on my 89 was to take both lines out of the abs valve, then found a single coupling fitting that fit both lines. Screwed them into the coupling. Bled the brakes. Done.

Now, of course I am wishing that I had written down the info about the coupling. I may need to do that again...

 

[saburai]

I've got to agree with this.

What I did on my 89 was to take both lines out of the abs valve, then found a single coupling fitting that fit both lines. Screwed them into the coupling. Bled the brakes. Done.

Now, of course I am wishing that I had written down the info about the coupling. I may need to do that again...

Me too...

 

[hacked89]

Me too...

You guys have the info from my post.

 

[chillman88]

I studied the hydroboost options for a while before pulling the trigger (95 F350). F-Superduty trucks don't show up in wrecking yards here. I got the Ford/Motorcraft booster from rockauto. Remans did not come with the intermediate pushrod. New lines too. Simply tee'd the return lines together at the ps pump. Moved the pin on the pedal up the 3/4-1" or so to prevent it binding.

EDIT: RABS valve was still in there. I don't believe it did anything before or after hydroboost.

What did it wind up costing you?

This is basically what I did as well. To be honest, I was lucky enough to already have the 2nd return port on my steering pump, and I still haven't done anything with the brake pedal yet. I got a hydroboost pedal from Wes but I'm waiting until I do bushings on the whole lot all at once.

I don't remember what the hydrobooster costs on Rockauto but if you just slot the bolt holes in the master cylinder so it fits you're only looking at another $30-40 for the PS lines. I think the booster was around $180 but I don't remember for sure.

As far as the RABS goes, I'd personally hold off until you start ripping your other brake lines apart. You may find it much easier to just run a new line straight from the Master cylinder to the rear axle, but that depends on what all you end up doing with the rest of the lines.

If you so choose, I can borrow a very nice flaring tool from a friend and we could bang out all new lines from the nice copper-nickel line some weekend. If you want, you know how to get ahold of me.

 

[saburai]

You guys have the info from my post.

We sure do! Thanks for taking the time to write it down for me. I just wish I could have gotten the parts in town.

 

[saburai]

This is basically what I did as well. To be honest, I was lucky enough to already have the 2nd return port on my steering pump, and I still haven't done anything with the brake pedal yet. I got a hydroboost pedal from Wes but I'm waiting until I do bushings on the whole lot all at once.

I don't remember what the hydrobooster costs on Rockauto but if you just slot the bolt holes in the master cylinder so it fits you're only looking at another $30-40 for the PS lines. I think the booster was around $180 but I don't remember for sure.

As far as the RABS goes, I'd personally hold off until you start ripping your other brake lines apart. You may find it much easier to just run a new line straight from the Master cylinder to the rear axle, but that depends on what all you end up doing with the rest of the lines.

If you so choose, I can borrow a very nice flaring tool from a friend and we could bang out all new lines from the nice copper-nickel line some weekend. If you want, you know how to get ahold of me.

If I get the time, I'm going to install the new shocks later today. I've been spraying the brake hoses with PB, maybe they will come apart...