Pushing coolant out the overflow.

[drinkypoo]

Aha. Well, if you are lucky you will be able to separate the two-piece up pipe which is only present on the 093, and that will make pulling the turbo relatively easy.

I personally spent good money (over twenty bucks) on a Kent-Moore J-26987 wrench. This is a nice little J-shaped 9/16 which can get not only the two side bolts on the injection pump (an open-ender gets the top one) but also the bolts which hold the turbo to the pedestal. Those are horribly hard to get a wrench on otherwise.

 

[thx997303]

I have a wrench I bent for the purpose, but my stupid bolts aren't 9/16" which is weird. Well, the up pipe bolts are, but not the mounting bolts for the pedastal oddly enough.

 

[vegas39]

Dont know about that turbo setup but we were able to leave my Banks turbo and exhaust system in place when we did my head gaskets.

 

[thx997303]

Well, I managed to pull the front two nuts from the up pipe, but getting to the back ones is going to be a challenge, and they weren't easy. I soaked them with penetrating oil and they still required some good torque to break them free. I can get my bent 9/16 back there but I don't really have room to turn it. Not sure what to do by this point.

As an aside, I pulled the IP as well. left the gear meshed, don't want that headache lol. Turns out 5/16" twelve point sockets aren't terribly common.

Does anybody have the torque sequence for these heads by chance? And for the intake manifold? That would be useful.

 

[drinkypoo]

I have a wrench I bent for the purpose, but my stupid bolts aren't 9/16" which is weird. Well, the up pipe bolts are, but not the mounting bolts for the pedastal oddly enough.

I don't remember what size my pedestal mount bolts were, but I had to pull the turbo off the pedestal first anyway because ATS 088 uses studs for turbo mounting. (I changed that...) Unless you mean turbo to pedestal, that IS weird. Probably GOOD though, because it will increase wrench clearance.

As for getting the other two bolts on the up pipe, box end crow's foot?

 

[TahoeTom]

Head bolt torque shown is for 7.3 with 1/2" headbolts. The 6.9 has 7/16" headbolts and the torque is 80 ft-lb. The 12 point bolts on the IP gear torque to 25 ft-lb. The valley pan is sealed to the block with RTV at front and back. The manual says 1/4" bead at front overlap 1/2" onto both heads, and two 1/4" beads at rear and overlap 1/2" onto heads. The valley pan probably includes instructions. The new design pans have a cutout at the rear corners that requires an additional bead at the cutouts before intake is installed.

 

[Agnem]

You can go 85 foot pounds on those head bolts, but DO get your torque wrench calibrated. I recommend these guys... http://teamtorque.com/

At 85 foot pounds, you are really pushing them. It is safe to do, but the difference between 85 and 90 is probably a broken bolt, so it takes an accurate torque wrench, and oil on the threads and mating surfaces to get a good accurate torque. Yes I do have the IP mounting O-rings.

 

[thx997303]

Everything but the up and down pipes are separated. I'm not sure how to get them separated though. They seem to just slip together, but they aren't coming apart. I imagine they're full of carbon.

Any suggestions?

 

[drinkypoo]

where can't you get them apart? from the turbo, or the two pieces of the pipe from one another, etc?

The down pipe should come out easily once unbolted, maybe with some wiggling. The up pipe is often frozen into the turbo pretty hard. They gave it a friction fit, too. Some people grind down the end of the pipe a little once they get it out.

 

[thx997303]

I can't get the back two bolts off of the up pipe. I can't reach one of them, and the other I can't get enough torque on. So I was hoping I could do it without dealing with the bolts, but it sounds like I wont be able to.

And so I need to unbolt the down pipe housing from the turbo?

 

[drinkypoo]

It's too bad nobody who actually owns an 093 has chipped in, I have to figure all this from the docs I've got

The usual way to remove the turbo from what I've read is to use a 2x4 cut to length and hammer on it in the morning, hammer in the evening, etc. But if you manage to separate the up pipe in the middle then you can (allegedly) remove the turbo upwards with the upper part of it still attached, albeit with some twisting and swearing.

The down pipe is bolted to the up pipe, at the frontmost-inner bolt.

Am I incorrectly assuming you haven't gone to http://www.atsdiesel.com/ats2/prodinst.asp and got "7.3L Ford Wastegated Turbo System Layout v1.0.pdf" (not sure 1st or 2nd) and "202-920-3056 Install - 6.9L 7.3L WG Ford Turbo System v1.0.pdf" ?

 

[thx997303]

Yeah, I hadn't gone there, but I apparently do have a good idea of what's going on based on what I observed.

So, I must remove those dang bolts most likely. Very annoying. Can't reach them for anything.

 

[drinkypoo]

Yes, you really have to get the front bolt on that flange in order to get the down pipe off of the assembly, from what it looks like on the diagram anyway. Once you get that bad mother, the remainder will probably be relatively easy. ha ha.

 

[thx997303]

Yeah, once I get several bolts I either can't get a wrench or socket on it, or can't put any torque on it because of the firewall. I'm at a loss here.

 

[drinkypoo]

well, you might try TDS, I know there's some 093 guys over there