Pulling heads from a 1983 F250 6.9

[CrippledEagle]

Well it seems as if I may have had a head gasket blow on my 83-6.9. Something poked a hole in my radiator as I was driving it and started to lose power and when I stopped it was blowing the coolant out of the hole in the radiator. I let it cool and refilled it and restated it but now I have a pronounced miss and of course coolant blowing up to the hood as soon as I start it. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe that the head gasket blew.
So here’s my question for working on it. Can one get the heads off without pulling the engine? Would I be better pulling the engine for ease of working on it?
I have bought new head gaskets and associated other gaskets. I have also purchased an ARP head stud kit.
Is there anything that I need to watch when I pull them? Any hints?
I really hadn’t expected to have to do much work on this as it is in otherwise great shape. Whoever had it was gentle with it and kept it stock all of the way. I replaced the water pump, the Motorcraft thermostat, the lift pump, and because one injector line was weeping, new lines. I was just getting ready to drive 14 hours to go be there when my grandson was born but can’t now.
Any advice or tips are greatly appreciated!

 

[aggiediesel01]

If you are adding studs, I'm pretty sure the engine has to come out. I think there's not enough room in the back corners to get the head set down or the studs put in after the heads are sitting in place. You might be able to stick the studs in the head and hold them there flush with the deck while you set the heads in place but I don't know if others have made that work or not.

When laying the new gaskets on, make sure they aren't backward. Look at the bottom of the head surface to make sure the shapes of the water jackets match the pattern on the head gaskets.

 

[snicklas]

I’ve not done head gaskets on an IDI..... but I’ve seen MANY posts on here..... from people that have pulled the heads in-frame, that “Next time I’m pulling the engine, it would be much easier to do the heads”.

These are cast iron heads and I think they are 100lbs + each. They sit at an angle, when the engine is in the truck, they do tuck back in under the cowl, and the HVAC box on the passenger side gets in the way. My recommendation is, if you have the means to safely remove and support an 1000lb engine, then pull it. You can do other maintenance while it’s out.... like reseal the oil cooler...... if I would have had to do heads on one of mine, I would have pulled it....

 

[79jasper]

Yes, preferable to pull it, but can definitely be done "in frame."
So here's where I'm at, on these engines the head gaskets don't typically just blow for no reason. Once the heads are off you need to fully inspect the cylinder walls. Run each piston to BDC to get a full view.

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[ih8minimumwage]

Can be done in frame (including the studs). Just tight and takes some time.

If you have access to an air compressor, it's good to remove the glow plugs, loosen the rockers and blow air down each hole. You'll hear where it's escaping from and know where the issue is before you tear into it.

Either get the heads checked at a shop, or buy a real straight edge and check it with a flashlight. When my head gasket blew, it warped the head as well. Popped the new gasket immediately, and had to do one side all over again.

 

[genscripter]

Funny. If I can do the HG's with the engine in my van bay, you should have more than enough room to do it in a truck.

You truck guys don't know how lucky you have it. https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/en...i-head-gasket-job-without-pulling-the-engine/

 

[DaveBen]

Not with head studs. The AC box is in the way for the installation.

 

[riphip]

Also do oil cooler, oil pan, & whatever you need to do. Or find a newer year, 86+ to renew instead. Don't try to crank/run anymore since you are at risk of hydrolock & bending rods.
Also check freeze plug/block heater hole for crack in that area.

 

[CrippledEagle]

Thank You everyone who has so far responded! Great ideas!
When the problem showed up I was driving to a town about an hour away from home. I heard a noise like something had hit my truck. About a mile away from then the engine started blowing I am assuming steam out of the tail pipe. I was really fortunate that I was almost to the roadside park so I turned in.
I had steam coming from under my hood. I let it cool down and refilled it with new antifreeze and water. I restarted it and I had coolant coming from the middle of the radiator and since I had the cap off, it was blowing coolant out of the filler neck. The engine has a miss now as well.
I am going to pull the radiator perhaps today so as to find where the coolant is coming out. I had just about a month ago put a new water pump and thermostat plus all belts and hoses. I was intending to take a trip to be there when my Grandson was to be born on the 14th but the little critter decided to come yesterday!
I hate being broke down anytime so I thought I was prepared for anything. I have another truck that I can tow with and I guess that’s what I will have to do until I get either another engine or figure out what went wrong.
I was going to put a new radiator in my truck but being a 4x4 the radiator from my two wheel drive one ton mounts differently. eBay wasn’t any help as all of the new radiators are aluminum and would work for a two wheel drive but not 4x4. I bought one of the new aluminum radiators and found out that they are two wheel only. Another thing is right on the box it states that one HAS TO USE the green antifreeze which one can use but one runs the risk of cavitation and breaching the cylinder walls.
I have found a gentleman that has two engines for sale that he says he knows one ran good when he bought it and another one he knows little about. I have the new ARP stud kit, head gaskets, intake gaskets and so on. He has come down with a malady that prevents him from working and has retired. He said that I can tear down the heads in his shop and check things out. I am guessing that is the best route for me to do. I had to retire in November 2018 and can no longer do much lifting so wrestling with 100lbs plus heads in the truck is probably out.
One of the engines he has is an early 7.3. Should they be interchangeable I may have the 7.3 rebuilt and changed in the future.
Are the early 7.3s interchangeable with the 6.9? I have two early 6.9 vehicles so it would be nice to have a spare engine.
The Gentleman wants $600.00 for the running one and $100.00 for the 7.3 in unknown condition.
Thank You everyone in advance!

 

[ih8minimumwage]

The 7.3IDI will interchange, since most of the differences were internal, but the head bolts are larger diameter. Your studs will only work with a 6.9IDI.

I had a couple of buddies, a chain and a 2x4x8 to lift the heads out and to install them (while I guided them in). Much easier than trying to wrestle them out by hand, or even with a cherry picker and was able to leave the exhaust manifolds on.

 

[79jasper]

Not with head studs. The AC box is in the way for the installation.

You have to insert them into the head prior to setting the heads on. Use rubber bands to hold them in place. Done it.

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[DaveBen]

There is always a way 79 jasper!

 

[79jasper]

Yes. Still very tight, but is doable. If I ever attempted again, I would use a hoist or cherry picker. Definitely take the hood off as well.

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[IDIBRONCO]

So here's where I'm at, on these engines the head gaskets don't typically just blow for no reason. Once the heads are off you need to fully inspect the cylinder walls. Run each piston to BDC to get a full view.

Still a good idea to inspect everything, but I believe that the early 6.9s did have head gasket problems. It was actually a gasket problem, not anything mechanical.

 

[snicklas]

On the radiator. There is not a 2wd 4x4 radiator difference in an IDI. There are 2 different radiators, but it has to do with if the truck came with Factory A/C or not. There is a short/wide non A/C radiator, and a narrow/tall radiator that was in the Factory A/C Trucks. Sounds like you have the less common short/wide one......

Does the radiator stick way down below the frame rails?