I'm going to assume it has to do with the oil dry on the floor that we're not allowed to ask about lol
Project Jerry
- Thread starter Thewespaul
- Start date
I'm going to assume it has to do with the oil dry on the floor that we're not allowed to ask about lol
Nailed it. Good thing I got spares
Wouldn't want excessive oil building up on there, might cause some level issues.. lol
Long day, got the valve train cleaned up and installed. I reused pretty much everything since it was in such great shape, just gave everything a good cleaning. Installed rocker bolts with lock tite to keep them from coming loose at higher rpms.
Stripped the valve covers, intake, water outlets, and oil cooler down to bear metal and painted them up.
Ceramic coated the exhaust manifolds
All assembled and lookin pretty:
Stripped the valve covers, intake, water outlets, and oil cooler down to bear metal and painted them up.
Ceramic coated the exhaust manifolds
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All assembled and lookin pretty:
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Pops got a good start on the stereo and amp install
Tweeters mounted into the a pillars
Amp and inline capacitors wired up and ready to be mounted under the seat
Stuck a battery in it and it sounds great. I have a full stereo, amp speakers and sub in the shop truck and this blows it away. Really happy with how it sounds.
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Tweeters mounted into the a pillars
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Amp and inline capacitors wired up and ready to be mounted under the seat
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Stuck a battery in it and it sounds great. I have a full stereo, amp speakers and sub in the shop truck and this blows it away. Really happy with how it sounds.
Getting back on this project this week.
Small announcement, with the help of the oilburner’s staff, my business Classic Diesel Designs is now a site vendor, but more on that to come!
Got the oil cooler on, little trick to help you get a good seal after resealing it is to tighten it down with no block to cooler gaskets, this will force both headers to clock themselves so they both sit flush, then pull it off clean up the surfaces and install the gaskets. I’ve seen the leak after installing it after a fresh reseal because when the headers turn they mess up the paper gaskets.
Clutch and flywheel installed, ended up just going with a 12 1/4” smf and a slightly upgraded clutch from stock until we are ready to put a big turbo on, then the dual disk will get installed, if the non turbo rods don’t eject before then.
Got both the crank and water pump pulleys hot tanked, stripped and painted. Classic Diesel Designs 130 cc db2 installed, ready for lines and injectors.
Small announcement, with the help of the oilburner’s staff, my business Classic Diesel Designs is now a site vendor, but more on that to come!
Got the oil cooler on, little trick to help you get a good seal after resealing it is to tighten it down with no block to cooler gaskets, this will force both headers to clock themselves so they both sit flush, then pull it off clean up the surfaces and install the gaskets. I’ve seen the leak after installing it after a fresh reseal because when the headers turn they mess up the paper gaskets.
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Clutch and flywheel installed, ended up just going with a 12 1/4” smf and a slightly upgraded clutch from stock until we are ready to put a big turbo on, then the dual disk will get installed, if the non turbo rods don’t eject before then.
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Got both the crank and water pump pulleys hot tanked, stripped and painted. Classic Diesel Designs 130 cc db2 installed, ready for lines and injectors.
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All the accessory brackets are hot tanked, stripped and painted. Just drying and should be ready for assembly tomorrow.
Started cleaning up the hotside piping for the turbo kit, got the crossover stripped primered and ceramic coated. I’ll be exhaust wrapping over the coating as well to get as much heat retention as possible.
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Started cleaning up the hotside piping for the turbo kit, got the crossover stripped primered and ceramic coated. I’ll be exhaust wrapping over the coating as well to get as much heat retention as possible.
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More brackets cleaned up, painted and installed
Just a tip for when you replace your crusty valve cover gaskets, always pull the studs out and clean them because they tend to get a piece of the old gasket stuck to them, and even though the surface is clean the crud on the stud will keep it from sitting flat.
Cleaned out all the injector bores, and reamed all the seats for a solid seal then installed a set of my injectors. Cleaned up the valve cover hardware and of course painted them too.
Stripped the passenger side injector lines down to bare metal and clear coated them. I’ve got clamps coming don’t worry
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Just a tip for when you replace your crusty valve cover gaskets, always pull the studs out and clean them because they tend to get a piece of the old gasket stuck to them, and even though the surface is clean the crud on the stud will keep it from sitting flat.
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Cleaned out all the injector bores, and reamed all the seats for a solid seal then installed a set of my injectors. Cleaned up the valve cover hardware and of course painted them too.
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Stripped the passenger side injector lines down to bare metal and clear coated them. I’ve got clamps coming don’t worry
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Surprised no one caught this, but I have the cdr on the passenger side where the dipstick will go. This is to give me more room for my water to air intercooler kit this truck will be getting.
Built a bracket for the dipstick tube, and got rid of the ugly yellow handle and repainted it along with the rest of the dipstick tune and bracket. Pulled the pulley off the alternator and painted it to match the rest of the pulleys.
Built a bracket for the dipstick tube, and got rid of the ugly yellow handle and repainted it along with the rest of the dipstick tune and bracket. Pulled the pulley off the alternator and painted it to match the rest of the pulleys.
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That engine is almost to beautiful to run!
Never to pretty to thrash!
Thanks man!
Thanks, I think these engines much better in the CDD colors than the ih grey.
Some turbo stuff happening today
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Dirtleg
Full Access Member
I noticed. But I just saw the post today so you beat me to it.
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