Project Big Red

laserjock

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$3 well spent.

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I should also mention I took the rear 2 cab bolts out. I found the big washers so I'll put them back in after it cures good.
 
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F350camper

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Thanks for the detailed write up on the RL. (Not only here but in your review thread) I know doing stuff like this is hard enough as its, and taking the time to get pictures just adds to the long todo list.

It looks like it came out really nice, and is giving me the confidence to shoot the little short bed on my ranger maybe this summer. Its funny, while the carriage bolts were throw away for you, the pictures of them captures a nice view of the final texture.
Anyway good job and keep up the great work!
 

IDIoit

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in carriage bolts ive pulled up from bedliners always seemed to take extra bedliner with it.
i assume because the paint hadnt cured yet this didnt happen to you?
thought this post was really weird,
i read your bedliner post second, but didnt make the connection till this morning LOL
 

laserjock

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Right. Just like masking. Take them out while it's soft. I like to pull the masking as soon as the surfaces aren't sticky so I leave clean edges.
 

riotwarrior

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So here is the floor prepped.

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I went ahead and pulled the head liner.

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Here is the space over the pass door. I think I'll look into some grab handles and maybe a nutsert tool.
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Also hung up my masking paper. Makes it pretty handy.

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Need to mask the dash and install the lower rear seat belt mounts for the shoulder belts. I think I bought rear shoulder belts... Need to check that. I know I have the mount plates for them. Directions say use pop rivets to attach them. I have some stainless rivets but I may do something else. Maybe stainless cap screws.

I worked on masking stuff off. Just need to mask the dash and the tunnel. Need a break line around it if I need to take it off. Need some throw away bolts to stick in the holes so I don't have to chase threads.

Please...could you provide measurements for center line of roof braces front to back?

I could then more easily attach a down the middle of roof over head console if I can mark out all the sweet spots.
 

laserjock

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Al,

From the metal window lip the braces are 12.5, 22, and 36 to the centers. The braces are right at 2.5" wide and note the profile. It is sunk in in the middle.

Hooking the tape on the front metal lip at the windshield you've got about 8 inches there of metal brace toward the back glass.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Now a question for you. I've got permatex ultra black gasket maker and black silicone sealant. Which would you use on a clutch firewall plate. I'm leaning toward the gasket maker because if it needs to come off it could and it just needs to keep water out, not bond it.
 

laserjock

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Alright. Got a few things done today while I was keeping the garage warm to make sure the liner is cured good before the Mercury crashes this week. I cleaned up and painted the steering column parts that were still needing it. The sheet metal shell needed a couple cracks welded up so I did that first, ground them down and painted. It's covered by the rubber boot so I didn't go crazy. I also did the throttle pedal and column clamp.

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Here's the rest of the column parts ready to go.

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I scrubbed up the aluminum bracket and then I actually turned the pressure way down on the blast cabinet and cleaned up the throttle pedal and rubber boot. Worked well to get the rusty crap off it.

I cleaned up in the cowl where the top bolts go through the firewall plate too and shot a little primer and paint on it. I think I'll use some 3/8 flange bolts up there with a healthy dose of black silicone. Maybe some gasket washers. Haven't decided.

Ready to start putting stuff together.
 

laserjock

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Progress!

Firewall plate is installed. Punched some washers out of epdm foam and sealed it with permatex.

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Smeared them good once i had them snug. I had previously cleaned primed and painted that area.

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Made a gasket for side plate from the same stuff.

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In the mean time, cooked up another batch of fasteners.

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That let me mount the clutch master. You can also see the side plate.

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And here it is from the inside. Added a washer on the lower side that was "modified". Good to go there. Now that it's in place, I'll pull the screws out and put the column in.

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It's all together and ready.

Trying to decide what to do with the clutch rod. I got it apart thanks to you guys. It looks like the hole in the rod is 1/2". The rod is larger than 3/8" so I'm going to see if I can find a bronze bushing that will work. If not, I'll put it back stock for now. That will let me put the pedals and column back in.

Then this happened.

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The cable was screwed up so I went to pull the unit out to clean it up and change the cable and broke the stud. I've got one in the parts truck so I'll look at it and decide if I'm grinding this one out or swapping.

That's pretty much where I am. I cleaned up the hydroboost unit a little. I'm not going to give it the full treatment until I'm sure it's not a leaker. It is used and it was pretty oily. I did confirm that the brake line fittings on my new lines match what are in it roughly. I'll know for sure hopefully tomorrow. I either have to find a gasket for the booster to firewall or make one. The one on the booster was crispy.
 

riotwarrior

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Al,

From the metal window lip the braces are 12.5, 22, and 36 to the centers. The braces are right at 2.5" wide and note the profile. It is sunk in in the middle.

Hooking the tape on the front metal lip at the windshield you've got about 8 inches there of metal brace toward the back glass.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Now a question for you. I've got permatex ultra black gasket maker and black silicone sealant. Which would you use on a clutch firewall plate. I'm leaning toward the gasket maker because if it needs to come off it could and it just needs to keep water out, not bond it.

I wouldnt use silicone or rtv.

Some type of structural adhesive.

Think the stuff they hold roof braces to roof with or how they glue new cars together.

I think all i had was PL404 so I used that. My clutch plate did come back out...waz a ****** to remove but worth it knowing it provided that much better reinforcement.

JM7.3CW

E D I T......

So at a bit of a loss to understand fully your measurements so I quickly doodled this image.

Maybe if uou could doodle one it may explain better what uou mean? Sorry but one wants to nail it just right or poke a hole in roof...NOT.

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Let me know what you can e plain.

And I am guessing screwing into middle not good for or aft of center due to profile....???how wide are braces?

Sorry for all the headaches

Btw...lookimg good
 
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laserjock

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I wouldnt use silicone or rtv.

Some type of structural adhesive.

Think the stuff they hold roof braces to roof with or how they glue new cars together.

I think all i had was PL404 so I used that. My clutch plate did come back out...waz a ****** to remove but worth it knowing it provided that much better reinforcement.

JM7.3CW

E D I T......

So at a bit of a loss to understand fully your measurements so I quickly doodled this image.

Maybe if uou could doodle one it may explain better what uou mean? Sorry but one wants to nail it just right or poke a hole in roof...NOT.

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Let me know what you can e plain.

And I am guessing screwing into middle not good for or aft of center due to profile....???how wide are braces?

Sorry for all the headaches

Btw...lookimg good

Your drawing is right except the measurements are from the back glass (window lip since I have no glass). So reverse the measurements. I believe that they are 2.5 wide. I'll get you a pic with ruler tomorrow for scale.
 

laserjock

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Update time

I had to drill this stud out. No way it pound out. Air hammer. Nada.

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Up sized to a 3/8 bolt because that what I had. Put a weld on it to retain it.

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Then of course I had to clean it up and paint it.

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Apparently I got ahold of a can of gloss by mistake. It's shines.

Cut a gasket out for the hydroboost because I couldn't buy one.

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So I turned to the pedal box. I've been fussing over this bushing thing and I finally found something close. I drilled the rod to 1/2" ID. Then I found a 1/2 to 3/8 bushing and drilled it to 7/16". Here's what it looks like pressed together.

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So I drilled a washer to 7/16" for an inside spacer and drilled a hole through the groove on the clutch pin for a lynch pin. Here it is assembled.

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Pretty happy with that because it leaves the pedal side pretty much untouched so if I ever need to a stock replacement part will work with the plastic clip. I am going to look for the right bushing and if I find it I'll change it because this one was hand drilled to ID so it's not perfectly square. That or I'll make one. It's so easy to pull off this way that I consider that a when I get to it project. Need to pull it off and lube it now that I know it fits.

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Pedals are in.

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Booster is in.

Question: is there supposed to be a bushing on the brake pedal pin? I'm guessing no just washers and a pin.

Anyway, that's where things are. I'll see about putting the column in tomorrow along with the throttle pedal.
 

riotwarrior

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Ooo something shiny...

1 of these things just doesnt belong here...

1 of these things iznt kinda the same...

Can you guess which 1 just doesnt belong here.....

Now its time to play our game.....



Buwa ha ha....had to man just had to
 

crash-harris

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If/when you find that correct size bushing, give us a part number and location. I already have a pin to retain my clutch rod and would like to have a bushing as well. Replaced the factory plastic so far. The pin seems to be there because a PO was too lazy to replace the plastic bushing.
 

laserjock

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Well, truckwise, the sum total of my day was hooking up the brake light switch and putting on the pedal pads. I hung the throttle pedal but randomly, I'm missing a couple bolts.

Ran into a problem with the vacuum dump for the cruise. With the pin being in a different spot the vacuum dump do-hicky (technical term) is in the wrong place. Here it is.

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It goes over the pin and clips around the pedal. You can kinda see here the misalignment.

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That little plastic thing should plug the end of that vacuum line and it won't reach it now. So I need to go learn more about my cruise control system. I don't think it's critical. I can plug it and make the cruise work (I think). It's just an extra safety I think. It dumps the vacuum in the system so the actuator can't pull the throttle.

So that's it for tonight.
 
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