Project: '94 CC F350 Service Pickup

[War Wagon]

Got all the new silicone heater hoses plumbed with the coolant filter installed. I used about 10 one inch cushion loop clamps to secure and route the hoses the way I wanted them.

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I finally figured out what fitting fits the inlet of the injection pump. It's 5/16 ORB for anyone wanting to know. I'm using a 5/16 ORB to 3/8 JIC 90 fitting.

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You may have noticed I didn't use any shut off valves for my coolant filter. I carry these hose pinchers with me all of the time and didn't figure I needed valves making more clutter, cost, and plumbing. I can just pinch the hoses when I change it. An old piece of heater hose works great for any areas that the hoses will rub.

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A big thanks to Junk for showing me that the NA CDR tube/grommet cuts down perfectly for the valve cover CDR grommet I was seeking. The left over piece of the tube that I cut off is perfect to fit over a 5/8 heater hose to protect it where it rubs.

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[GOOSE]

The cushion clamps show a great attention to detail, very nice. Can you show where you plumbed the filter into the system? I am guessing into the heater core hoses but wonder about the guarantee of circulation through the filter. Are you in series or parallel with the heater core?

 

[War Wagon]

The cushion clamps show a great attention to detail, very nice. Can you show where you plumbed the filter into the system? I am guessing into the heater core hoses but wonder about the guarantee of circulation through the filter. Are you in series or parallel with the heater core?

I try to pay attention to the little details, because I really don't want any corner I may have cut to come back to give me trouble. Been there and done it that way and it's not worth it. It will be worth my time to try my best to do it right. The filter is plumbed in series after the heater core. I will see how it works. I'm hoping I will have enough heat in the cab. If not I bought and have all the pieces to plumb it in parallel/bypass.

 

[War Wagon]

I finally have all the right fuel fittings to hook everything up. The Push Lok fittings work great for a nice clean hose you can build and assemble yourself. Also can be reused for those who didn't know of them. I'll be running the mechanical lift pump for now. I'm looking into a couple Facet lift pump options: the Dura-Lift and the Posi-Flo. Anyway here's the fuel new lines with my fuel filter relocation.

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[ZWilson07]

I finally have all the right fuel fittings to hook everything up. The Push Lok fittings work great for a nice clean hose you can build and assemble yourself. Also can be reused for those who didn't know of them. I'll be running the mechanical lift pump for now. I'm looking into a couple Facet lift pump options: the Dura-Lift and the Posi-Flo. Anyway here's the fuel new lines with my fuel filter relocation.

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Looks good man, I like that fuel setup.

I gotta do something with mine soon as well, just trying to decide if I am going electric lift pump or staying stock mechanical. The mechanical seem to last great, I just hate the risk of allowing fuel into the oil!

 

[junk]

Glad I could help on the CDR deal. I might actually install a coolant filter now. I really like how you did that. I'm interested to hear how your heat holds up with the longer coolant line. Please let us know.

Hey where are you getting your push-lok connectors?

 

[War Wagon]

Glad I could help on the CDR deal. I might actually install a coolant filter now. I really like how you did that. I'm interested to hear how your heat holds up with the longer coolant line. Please let us know.

Hey where are you getting your push-lok connectors?

The Push Lok (Parker I think is the maker) fittings you can get from Fastenal. I got some from there and some from a place called Hose and Rubber. I think you could get them from a place like Grainger too or heavy truck supply store that carries a lot of fittings. They go by the name of Barb Tite (EATON I think) at Fastenal, and are called some other things too, but all look the same.
We shall see on the heater/filter system. I plumbed the filter downstream of the heater core so I think I should be Ok. One way to find out. Thanks, again on the CDR grommet. I think I'll order a couple more to keep around. I contacted Victor Reinz on the subject of these hard to find IDI gaskets that are not part of there complete engine kit; waiting for a response on that.

 

[War Wagon]

I've got pretty much everything buttoned up under the hood and I really like that way all my modifications turned out and fit together. I got into the shop where the welder is today and got my exhaust all installed and the hangers welded in place. 4" straight pipe exhaust kit that I put together from different parts and pieces (ATS, MBRP, and custom pieces) turned out really good and sounds awesome, all for the cost of about $250. Got to go for a little test drive. Some more tweaking and some timing adjustment tomorrow hopefully and I'll have the engine about wrapped up. The blue hose is just venting the CDR to the ground. I'm not sure if I'm going to run it something like that or put a port in the intake tube.

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Banks intercooler mounted for final time I hope.

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As I mentioned earlier, I used a 5/15 ORB - 3/8 JIC 90 fitting to connect new fuel lines to the pump. I didn't mention that this particular fitting has a smaller ID that the original inlet fitting. So, to remedy this I jigged it up in the drill press and made the ID a little bigger than the original piece was. If you are wondering why I choose to use 3/8 hose and fitting to make new fuel lines it not because I think I'm getting more fuel or something, but there is a restriction at every fitting. By using 3/8 fittings/hardware I should have no flow restriction worries due to the orifices/ID in the fittings being significantly smaller than the hose. I forgot to take a before picture. This is the after drilling picture.

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[eastsideauto]

Have you got the utility body mounted up yet? Very interested in seeing this. My truck has no bed at the present and I had my mind set on a flatbed but now considering the utility body.

 

[War Wagon]

Have you got the utility body mounted up yet? Very interested in seeing this. My truck has no bed at the present and I had my mind set on a flatbed but now considering the utility body.

No, not yet. That's more towards the last step, but there will be pictures to show.

 

[War Wagon]

Exhaust installed. Some rebar works good to build your own hangers. It bends easily and the ribs on it help to hold in the rubber hangers. It takes a lot of pipe to get to the back of the crew cab.

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Fast Coolers since I was under there.

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I routed the new block heater cord to run inline with the Arctic Fox oil pan heater I installed some time ago. I taped the two flat cords together into a square shape to run the pair to the front of the pickup and wrapped them in split loom so that hopefully I can have many years of trouble free service. The combination of hot oil and coolant when you start up in negative temperatures is really nice and provides piece of mind. It's -22F here right now.

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[04_6.0]

looking good!!!

 

[War Wagon]

I've found that my fuel heater is leaking. Does anyone know a good o-ring part # to replace it with? Or, do I just need to take it in and match it up?

I had to loose the factory cast piece that bolted to the top of the turbo as the pressure switch for the factory gauge won't fit the way that I have the intake hat clocked. I also wanted to tap in the sensors for my ISSPRO oil temp and oil psi into the turbo feed line. This is what I ended up with. I probably could have done it a little cleaner if I knew of some better hardware. This is a little ugly, but it doesn't leak and and it should work well. For proper fitment and to lessen the use of one fitting I drilled and tapped a 1/8" pipe port into a 1/4" street T. This way I could screw the original adapter fitting into the it. A bushing and 1/8" street T on top of that and this is what I ended up with.

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Gauge install coming soon.

 

[War Wagon]

Started getting al the gauge wiring put in, but I stopped to address the fuel heater that is leaking. I'll see if I can get an o-ring in town tomorrow. Here's a little gauge teaser.

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[War Wagon]

Thanks Dark Horse. I got an o-ring that worked at my local machine shop.

I finally got back to working on the finishing up of this thing. Pillar gauges installed, but the overhead pod will wait until I have the windshield replaced. The little white piece pictured sticks into a hole in the pillar and a zip tie slips through it. It works really nice for tying up the wiring. Observations after gauge install: Too many wires.

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Went for a good test drive and everything was looking great, then running in the driveway it started spewing coolant all over steaming out the hood an making a big mess. I shut it off and looked under to see wear it came from. It blew a freeze plug out. The one on the drivers side under the motor mount. It's going tom be hard to get in there to work on it. I'm going to town tomorrow to get some new freeze plugs, a 1" pipe tap, some 1" plugs, and a block heater. So, as you may have guessed I want to either put another freeze plug in, tap and plug the hole, or put a block heater in the hole. The block heater looks the easiest. Does anyone know are all the rest of the freeze plug holes the same as the one used for the factory block heater location? Will it accept the same block heater? I'm just glad it happened at home and nothing overheated.