Pro tips with IP install?

[dhk coatings]

Picked up a new injection pump and was gonna install it tomorrow.
Is there any tips or tricks that you guys can add to help?
The current pump is heat soaking when warm, as you all know cranking cranking cranking till finally it starts, but from stone cold starts on the dime.
Is there anything i have to adjust on the new pump when it goes in?
Previous owner has installed new injectors, o rings, glow plugs, but i guess he gave up when the lift pump went out. Maybe yhey new the IP was on its way also....
how long time wise can i expect for this to take?
Is there any hidden things that could break or to watch out for?

 

[IDIoit]

does the new IP have the hard lines on?
if not, theres a sequence to how to put them on.
make sure these are tight before installing, if one leaks, you will be either buying a special tool, or pulling it out.


leave the timing gear housing and gear alone, you dont want to end up dealing with timing misalignments.

pull the front cover off and unbolt the 3 center bolts to the IP drive flange.

without a turbo its a breeze

 

[cpdenton]

Have a good read.

http://oilburners.net/brian/idi/FuelInjectionServicing.htm

 

[bbjordan]

You can remove the pump with the lines. No need to undo the line clamps. I marked mine drivers and pass side.
Take a picture or two so you can have a record of how line routing was.

Check this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7j10Ed95IU

 

[dhk coatings]

thanks great information.
the new pump does not have the lines attached. hope that doesn't become a problem!
looks straight forward, what ya all reccon. 4hrs?

 

[IDIoit]

easily done in an hour n a half...

 

[bbjordan]

imho, the lines are easier to change when the pump is out of the vehicle. Don't unbolt the rack clamps. They keep the line where they want to be. There are two sides/racks of lines. When you have the IPs side by side it's easy. You'll see.

When you put it back together, before you snug the pump timing nuts, hand thread the line nut onto the injectors. Everything should be pretty much where it needs to be. You should be able to fire it up after you bleed the injector lines.

Oh! You can hand prime the IP too. There is a thread somewhere here about that.

If you are also replacing the glow plugs. Do that before putting the IP back in.

When bleeding the injector lines you might want to remove the easy to get to glow plugs out to make it easier to crank the engine.

 

[TahoeTom]

There are scribed timing marks on the gear cover and pump at 12:00. Aligning the marks is only a static timing that allows the engine to run. You will need to dynamic time the engine using a meter or timing light with a pulse adapter after it is warmed up to operating temperature. Most of the time when the marks are aligned the timing will be retarded, but there is no way to verify without a meter or light. According to Mel at Conestoga Diesel, rotating the pump toward the passenger side(advancing) a small amount, like a dimes thickness will be a better starting point. Any adjustment of pump timing should be made with the engine shut down, not while running.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?42782-Timing-a-7-3-with-a-Ferret-adapter

 

[dhk coatings]

well . took 5 hrs to complete.
hardest part aliening the dowel pin and the 5/16th bolts. went at those with a wrench cause didn't have a socket.
timing was my next question, but tom has answered it.
heading out to road test, return core and ask about that timing light.....

 

[dhk coatings]

What are the chances of receiving a defective IP? Again wont start hot, poured water on the rotor and head at lines and it started right up. Stanadyne pump.... May it is a rebuilt pump?

 

[IDIoit]

depends where said IP was built.

many offer self proclaimed "quality injection pumps"
few come close to that description.

i bought my last IP from Conestogadiesel.com
zero issues with the IP, AFTER i relocated my cranium from my ******.

 

[typ4]

What are the chances of receiving a defective IP? Again wont start hot, poured water on the rotor and head at lines and it started right up. Stanadyne pump.... May it is a rebuilt pump?

Where did you buy it from?

 

[cpdenton]

Yep. Tell us where you bought your pump. Many places are known for slapping some gaskets and a shiny paint job and calling it rebuilt....

 

[dhk coatings]

Pump came from lordco.

 

[icanfixall]

From the sounds of what you have posted. You still have the same starting issues. Now this can be the pump rebuilder or might be another issue too. Most likely its the pump. This forum has seen so many "new pumps" turn out to be terrible examples of a rebuild. Sadly thee are no actual new Stanadyne injection pumps made or sold anywhere .. At least I have never found anyone selling new pumps and I have been round the block a few times looking. Now I'm not saying I'm an expert because of my post count. I'm just here helping members like are found here asking for help. My numbers means nothing. Now this new pump seems to need cool water poured on it when its warmed up. Does this cause the engine to start? If so then you still have the heat soak issue . Whats happening is the clearances get to large to effectively pump fuel when the metal in the injection pump warms up. Sadly this "new pump" is also worn out by what you describe. I feel its best to find out what the fuel pressure is leaving the fuel filter and what the fuel volume is too. If you have about 5 lbs after the filter is ok. Sorry but I can't find the volume of fuel that needs to be pumped out of the filter in one munite. Someone may chime in with that info.l