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Post up your custom fuel pump/filtration setups....

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Kevo1288, Oct 29, 2018.

  1. BioFarmer93

    BioFarmer93 OPEC Hater

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    This is what I run on the passenger side frame rail, after a valve isolated waterblock filter. Went through all of the pump/filter trauma several years ago. I run a 2nd waterblock filter at the regular filter location and tap off of the line to the IP to a hood mounted mechanical fuel pressure gauge so I can spot shenanigans while they are still in their infancy. The pump is guaranteed for 18,000 hours if a filter is installed in front of it. Never been able to draw it down below 6 PSI at full throttle. I'm surprised more folks don't use them..

    [​IMG]
    Walbro FRB-13 Industrial & Marine Fuel Pump
    $158.64

    minimum of 43 GPH @ 6-8 PSI
    cleanable, replaceable internal filter
    cycles on and off based on demand.
    Low Current Draw
    Reverse-Polarity Protected 60 minutes
    Self-Priming (Dry Lift) of more than 48"
    Dry Run to Four Hours
    Compatible With All Commercially-Available Pump-Grade Gasoline, Gasohol, Diesel, or Bio-Diesel
    Operating Temperature from -40° to 155° Farenheit (-40° to 70° Celcius)
     
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  2. raydav

    raydav Full Access Member

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    I got the filter off the engine years ago. Click on the link below. Then click the first PIC to open the album. You may need to click the open pic to get a description. There are arrows on the edge of the pic that sometimes hide and you need to hover the edge of the pic for them to appear. Scroll thru to the tenth pic. There is some fuel pump info.

    https://goo.gl/photos/LJNV4esgmYmSzKdL8
     
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  3. pelky350

    pelky350 Full Access Member

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    @Crawler arebyou using rubber line from the tanks fowards? I was considering doing that but someone told me it was a bad idea? I think I’ve been getting random bits of air intrusion somewhere in the lines but never have tracked it down because for the most part it never seems to affect anything
     
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  4. Crawler

    Crawler Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    The rear tank has the factory connectors on it and the factory metal lines between the tank and the FSV. The quick connects and nylon lines were removed between the metal line and the FSV.

    The front tank has gates barricade hose from the tank to the FSV.

    Then Gates from the FSV to the Carter pump. After the carter pump there is about a foot of Gates until it ties back into the factory steel line that leads up to the engine compartment.
     
  5. Kevo1288

    Kevo1288 Full Access Member

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    Wes wanna shoot me a PM with your list for that setup? I was thinking of going with a carter 4070 pump, was going to order today but wanted to do a pre and post filter setup with the pump. Just was unsure what would be a good filter head and filter setup for my truck? Id like to complete the whole conversion when I do my 38 gallon tank swap next weekend.
     
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  6. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    I’d rather not give up the goose with the materials list for the kit yet, got a lot of money invested into trying different heads/filter combos to find what works best for our trucks but I’ll point you into the right direction.

    Start with finding a filter head, there’s plenty on eBay. Shop around till you find a few that you fit your budget and find out what thread they use. Then go to the wix (or any name brand filter manufacturer) website and go through their inventory to see how many filter options are available for your thread pitch. Check the prices and see if one thread pitch has cheaper filter options than another to narrow it down to what head and filters you are going to use.

    I am using a dual filter head with the primary being a 10” deep 30 micron water separator with drain and then a 12” 2 micron fuel conditioner filter as the secondary. You can as short or long as you like with the filters, just depends on your mounting location. Obviously larger filters are going to have more filter media so they will flow more fuel and last longer. Make sure the filters are rated for at least the same gph as your pump, otherwise you will have a restriction.

    You’re welcome to pm me or ask away here if you want a yay or nay before you make the buy.
     
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  7. bike-maker

    bike-maker Full Access Member

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    I’ve been running the same rubber fuel lines for about 10 years with no issues. Just make sure to use the good stuff rated for diesel/oil - The cheap stuff will start falling apart on the inside and clog up your fuel system. Especially if you run biodiesel.
    I also have cheapo 3/8” clear in-line filters before the tank selector valves. Never caused any starvation issues with the stock lift pump.
    There’s a link in my sig to my setup.
     
  8. Kevo1288

    Kevo1288 Full Access Member

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    pmed @Thewespaul thank you!
     
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  9. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    You don't have to quote someone to tell them you private messaged them. They will get a notification that you messaged them...

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  10. pelky350

    pelky350 Full Access Member

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    @79jasper probably used to Facebook because people forget to check message request all the time
     
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  11. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    Right, didn't mean anything by it, just may not know. Lol

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  12. Big Daddy John

    Big Daddy John Registered User

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    Can I ask a dumb question? How do you private message someone on here?
     
  13. Oledirtypearl86

    Oledirtypearl86 Full Access Member

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  14. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    Yup. That's why I like using Tapatalk. Does simplify some things.

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  15. DaytonaBill

    DaytonaBill Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I see no one's mentioned Goldenrod filters here... I was looking to see if anybody made a bracket for those pipe mounted filters?

    Also, I've been running a Facet for at least a year now and have a el cheapo plastic inline filter in front of said pump because I found hard black specks fouling up the expensive filter on filter head... Don't want them to foul the filter on my Facet...

    When the el cheapo pre-filter collects enough black specks between the pleats, the filter light starts coming on and I start experiencing hesitation and stalling problems...

    I just back purge fuel lines with compressed air and if anyone does this, be sure to take fuel cap off...

    Then install new el cheapo filter and Facet is good until el cheapo filter clogs up again...

    I know that I've got the fuel bugs, just not sure what the black specks are... It could be pieces of old shower head, tank delamination or some kind of organism growing in tank...

    It's definitely not algae, no shiny, gooey brown sludge looking stuff anywhere...


    The black specks feels hard, like gravel, so am thinking that it's not alive at this point...

    Hence my thoughts of plumbing Goldenrod filter bank with the mesh filter for conditioning the fuel before filter... At this stage of my thinking, I need some means of attaching said filters to a mount, via some kind of bracket... Goldenrod doesn't make them, which I find strange...

    Any help there?
     

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